Essential tools for an engine rebuild...

Hello guys, I've been away from this group for quite some time for
various reasons but I won't bore you with the details. I'm glad I
finally found my way back.

I have a couple engines that need rebuilt and my 20yo son has agreed
to turn the wrenches. I can't even pick up a wrench. We have the basic
hand tools and some engine rebuild tools but I'm wondering what "VW
specific" would make the task easier.

How many of the following tools do I really need:

oil pressure relief valve piston puller
deck height moasuring tool
crankshaft end play measuring tool
oil pump puller
crank gear puller
distributer drive puller
crank pulley puller
flywheel seal installer tool

We have an oil filler nut removal tool, a clutch alighnment tool and a
torquemiester for the flywheel nut /axle nuts from aircooled dot net.
Those three tools aren't really necessary but they sure make things
easier.

Thanks
Dave

Welcome back Dave!

> How many of the following tools do I really need:
>
> oil pressure relief valve piston puller

Not necessary. If they are stuck, you can use a piece of wood to shove
in there and wedge into the piston, then pull it out.


> deck height moasuring tool

You do need to measure deck in an accurate build. You can fabricate your
own too. You need to clamp the cylinder down against the case, then you
need a rigid flat piece of metal to lay across the cylinder top, and
lastly a digital caliper (or a vernier caliper) for measuring the deck.

> crankshaft end play measuring tool

While it would be nice to do it with a dial indicator, you could get by
with feeler blades and a bolt through one of the engine top mounting
holes. I can give you details if needed.


> oil pump puller

Not really needed. Once the 13mm case bolts have been loosened around
the oil pump, it usually comes out pretty easy. I do like the tool
though and I have made my own.

> crank gear puller

In order to save the teeth on those gears, yes, I would get one.

> distributer drive puller

Nah. A regular wooden pencil. Cut the eraser tip off and shape the end
to fit inside the spring cavity at the end of the distributor drive
tightly. Tap it in, twist and pull the drive shaft out. It sticks to the
pencil.


> crank pulley puller

Nice.

> flywheel seal installer tool

Not really necessary if you know how to install seals. You can tap a new
one in with a hammer if you lay the old one over the new one to
distribute the hammer blows more evenly. The old one may get dented but
the new seal won't.

Thanks Jan, I should've known you'd be the first to reply if anyone
did. I appreciate it!

Last year, we ran across a railbuggy with a locked up 2276 with 044
heads and a 3 rib transmission. I was hoping it was something simple
like a stuck valve. No such luck. When we tore it down, one rod was
broke . Something knocked the side out of one lifter bore. I don't
think the case can be repaired. We want to salvage everything possible
and build another engine to put in a 69 standard bug for the street or
mild off road but street legal.

How difficult is it to fit that 3 rib in a standard bug?

Thanks again,
Me


On Jan 6, 4:30*am, Jan Andersson >
wrote:
> Welcome back Dave!
>
> > How many of the following tools do I really need:
>
> > oil pressure relief valve piston puller
>
> Not necessary. If they are stuck, you can use a piece of wood to shove
> in there and wedge into the piston, then pull it out.
>
> > deck height moasuring tool
>
> You do need to measure deck in an accurate build. You can fabricate your
> own too. You need to clamp the cylinder down against the case, then you
> need a rigid flat piece of metal to lay across the cylinder top, and
> lastly a digital caliper (or a vernier caliper) for measuring the deck.
>
> > crankshaft end play measuring tool
>
> While it would be nice to do it with a dial indicator, you could get by
> with feeler blades and a bolt through one of the engine top mounting
> holes. I can give you details if needed.
>
> > oil pump puller
>
> Not really needed. Once the 13mm case bolts have been loosened around
> the oil pump, it usually comes out pretty easy. I do like the tool
> though and I have made my own.
>
> > crank gear puller
>
> In order to save the teeth on those gears, yes, I would get one.
>
> > distributer drive puller
>
> Nah. A regular wooden pencil. Cut the eraser tip off and shape the end
> to fit inside the spring cavity at the end of the distributor drive
> tightly. Tap it in, twist and pull the drive shaft out. It sticks to the
> pencil.
>
> > crank pulley puller
>
> Nice.
>
> > flywheel seal installer tool
>
> Not really necessary if you know how to install seals. You can tap a new
> one in with a hammer if you lay the old one over the new one to
> distribute the hammer blows more evenly. The old one may get dented but
> the new seal won't.

I also did my first rebuild with the Idiot Book. In the front room of my
brothers apartment in Dallas in Feb. 1987, age 23. Used carpenters hammer
on wood to knock cyls loose, all-thread and feeler gauge end play setter,
hose clamp ring compressor, heated the crank gears on the stove to get them
on.
Never heard about deck height so put in the spacers that came with the heads
and hoped that was right. Had Knights on Kingsley align bore the case and
take the gears off the crank. Had to use a type 3 oil cooler cause thats
all they had, had to plug the hole in the back (front) of it. I remember
the guy said I could do it as good as anybody else, just "take your time".
Had to buy a 36mm socket and a torque wrench, which I still have and use
(craftsman). engine ran great for a long time for me and still may be
running in my dreams... Thanks for listening...

Jim Ed, Cletus, thanks for the comments.

I rebuilt my first and only VW engine in Mom's basement when I was 17.
It was nothing to brag about but it ran!



, Jan 8, 5:09*pm, "Cletus" > wrote:
> I also did my first rebuild with the Idiot Book. In the front room of my
> brothers apartment in Dallas in Feb. 1987, age 23. *Used carpenters hammer
> on wood to knock cyls loose, all-thread and feeler gauge end play setter,
> hose clamp ring compressor, heated the crank gears on the stove to get them
> on.
Never heard about deck height so put in the spacers that came with the
heads
> and hoped that was right. *Had Knights on Kingsley align bore the case and
> take the gears off the crank. *Had to use a type 3 oil cooler cause thats
> all they had, had to plug the hole in the back (front) of it. *I remember
> the guy said I could do it as good as anybody else, just "take your time"..
> Had to buy a 36mm socket and a torque wrench, which I still have and use
> (craftsman). engine ran great for a long time for me and still may be
> running in my dreams... Thanks for listening...