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#32
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98 Accord won't start
Well I finally broke down and took it to a mechanic. After I got it to
start, and it would move, I decided to try and get it somewhere before I had to have it towed. The mechanic said the "Idle Air Control", IAC, valve wasn't working properly which was causing the surging/pulsing idle. I read up on it, and it sounds like it could have been the cause of my no start as well. This has been quite a learning experiece and I appreciate all the help from the people who've posted here! Thanks! They replaced the IAC and according to the mechanic (I haven't picked it up yet) "it's running great", the total is about $300, which considering I had them fix a leaking tire as well I guess isn't too bad. The only thing I wonder is why this didn't set any error codes in the computer, since I've read in other places that a stuck or malfunctioning IAC can set codes (and/or light the MIL). Hopefully this little saga is over, thanks to all, -Mike |
#33
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98 Accord won't start
Did you ever purge the cooling system of air?
I had idle problems last year not unlike yours, took apart the IAC valve, and in the process found the cooling chamber was full of air. Purged the system. Car ran like a charm. > wrote > Well I finally broke down and took it to a mechanic. After I got it to > start, and it would move, I decided to try and get it somewhere before > I had to have it towed. The mechanic said the "Idle Air Control", IAC, > valve wasn't working properly which was causing the surging/pulsing > idle. I read up on it, and it sounds like it could have been the cause > of my no start as well. This has been quite a learning experiece and I > appreciate all the help from the people who've posted here! Thanks! > They replaced the IAC and according to the mechanic (I haven't picked > it up yet) "it's running great", the total is about $300, which > considering I had them fix a leaking tire as well I guess isn't too > bad. > > The only thing I wonder is why this didn't set any error codes in the > computer, since I've read in other places that a stuck or > malfunctioning IAC can set codes (and/or light the MIL). > > Hopefully this little saga is over, thanks to all, > -Mike > |
#34
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98 Accord won't start
wrote in
oups.com: > Well I finally broke down and took it to a mechanic. After I got it to > start, and it would move, I decided to try and get it somewhere before > I had to have it towed. The mechanic said the "Idle Air Control", IAC, > valve wasn't working properly which was causing the surging/pulsing > idle. Then it was stuck WIDE open, or the gaskets were leaking severely. You've had an unusual occurrence. > I read up on it, and it sounds like it could have been the cause > of my no start as well. This has been quite a learning experiece and I > appreciate all the help from the people who've posted here! Thanks! > They replaced the IAC and according to the mechanic (I haven't picked > it up yet) "it's running great", the total is about $300, which > considering I had them fix a leaking tire as well I guess isn't too > bad. > > The only thing I wonder is why this didn't set any error codes in the > computer, since I've read in other places that a stuck or > malfunctioning IAC can set codes (and/or light the MIL). The IAC valve will set an error only if it stops responding. If the gaskets were leaking or the plunger was stuck and not moving in response to the motors' commands, a code will not be set. A stuck IAC points to either a defective assembly, or severe contamination of the throttle body. Be nice to know some details of what he found. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#35
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98 Accord won't start
TeGGeR® wrote: > > The IAC valve will set an error only if it stops responding. If the gaskets > were leaking or the plunger was stuck and not moving in response to the > motors' commands, a code will not be set. > Well that makes sense, thanks! > A stuck IAC points to either a defective assembly, or severe contamination > of the throttle body. Be nice to know some details of what he found. His exact words were, the IAC was "completely flat" and not pulsing properly. I'm too much of a newbie in this car stuff to have asked the right questions I guess. Do you think I should be concerned about the IAC being stuck? The car has almost 150k miles, this isn't something that usually wears out? You think this could be an indicator of something more serious? Thanks! -Mike |
#36
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98 Accord won't start
wrote in
oups.com: <snip> > > Do you think I should be concerned about the IAC being stuck? The car > has almost 150k miles, this isn't something that usually wears out? > You think this could be an indicator of something more serious? The IAC is NOT something that normally "wears out". It is generally either 1) mechanically/electrically defective, or 2) gets clogged with sludge. If the former, well, you've just won the reverse lottery. It's highly unlikely you'll ever see this problem again. If the latter, you've got much more serious problems than a plugged IAC. You need to make sure your mechanic confirms the cleanliness of the throttle body, and the cleanliness of the PCV system. This is so basic and critical that it's beyond question. Failure to change the engine oil in accordance with YOUR PERSONAL driving habits is what causes sludge. Forget the "normal" and "severe" service schedules in the Owner's Manual: *EVERYBODY* meets the "severe" requirements, no matter what the automaker marketing departments want you to believe. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#37
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98 Accord won't start
Hmm I'm fairly religious on changing the oil in my car. I've
occasioanlly gone 4k miles, but rarely (the car's at 140k miles and almost all of them long highway drives commuting, it's had quite a few oil changes). I'll have a mechanic check the throttle body and PVC system. The car seems to be running great now, but what would be symptoms of those being dirty? I had an ignition switch/ignition coil issue about a two years ago that caused a long chain of cascade failures. http://groups.google.com/group/rec.a... dfaa26be02bf0 The exact chain of events is a little murky but it was something like something in the starter system died that fried, my alternator, that caused my battery to discharge after the dealer replaced the alternator and battery the engine misfired and stalled quite a bit clogging the EGR ports and screwing up the catalytic converter. The dealership that did the repairs (suspisciously) did a bunch of work for free because they initially just replaced the alternator and battery and told me I was all set. Could all of that been a precursor to this issue? Thanks for the advice, tegger! -Mike |
#38
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98 Accord won't start
wrote in
oups.com: > Hmm I'm fairly religious on changing the oil in my car. I've > occasioanlly gone 4k miles, but rarely (the car's at 140k miles and > almost all of them long highway drives commuting, it's had quite a few > oil changes). I'll have a mechanic check the throttle body and PVC > system. The car seems to be running great now, but what would be > symptoms of those being dirty? Not much noticeable at the beginning, but eventually your throttle will get stickey, and you'll be burning oil. > > I had an ignition switch/ignition coil issue about a two years ago > that caused a long chain of cascade failures. > <snip tale of woe> > > Could all of that been a precursor to this issue? Whoo. I have no way of knowing from where I am. The IAC is unlikely to have failed because of any of that, unless it was sludged-up, of course. > > Thanks for the advice, tegger! > Anytime. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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