Clutch bolts and locktite

On 27 Jul 2018 19:16:22 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

>>If it's a 1:1 ratio, then it would seem only the teenies tinyies twist of
>>the driveshaft is what's needed.
>>
>>Is that assumption correct?
>
> yes

Thanks again for all your help.
I am happy to have finally, after many decades of being afraid of doing a
transmission, gotten my "boy scout badge" for doing one.

It's probably my first and last transmission ever, but I have already
forgotten about the "thousand situps" I did, in effect, by getting up and
down to get tools and parts over the past five days.

I'm told sometimes even transmission shops take as long (elapsed time) as I
did to replace a clutch, although I would think, in actual shop hours, the
job would be less than six or seven hours (I'm guessing though).

It took me longer because I documented every single step down to the detail
of the thread pitch, and I took many pictures, and I cleaned up the parts,
and I had to learn each time how to do the steps I had never done (like
aligning the transmission splines).

Most of the time the answers came too late, as I had figured them out by
then, but it's very nice to know that the solution I came up with (except
on torque) was the right one in the end.

I don't know what I'll do with that transmission jack. It will probably
take up space in my garage forever though.

On 27 Jul 2018 18:10:52 GMT, rbowman wrote:

> Reading between the lines he is not the principal driver. Maybe take it
> for a long, gentle road trip before handing it over...

She drove it today on the highway and said it didn't vibrate, which is good
because I had mounted and balanced her tires and replaced her rear drums
where I made a rookie mistake by not putting the drum linkages back right.

This time, I rotated the tires again (she eats them up where I wish there
was a way to cash in on the warranty since the car is aligned
professionally and the tires are rotated five times a year in the X and
then H pattern repeatedly (X then H then X then H, etc.).

I wonder if there is a way to "prove" you rotated tires when you do them at
home? I never cashed in on a tire warranty in my life so I don't know how
it works (do you ship them back the four tires, for example?).

I learned a lot I hadn't expected to learn, by the way, such as this is
what the reverse sensor looks like apparently:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2972461reverse_switch.jpg>

And this is apparently the speedometer sensor:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8225189speedometer.jpg>

And that the clutch disc is asymmetric so it has to go in only this way:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=4293915clutch_disc.jpg>

Filling the transmission with the Red Line MT-90 was a breeze from the top:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6063171trans_fliud.jpg>

But I wonder what this strange-looking "K" means on the conning tower?
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1401901tower_k.jpg>

On 28 Jul 2018 10:18:34 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

> On a rwd car or light truck anything over 3 hours means the mechanic
> is slacking oir something went wrong.

Thanks for that information on the 3 hours as this is a RWD, and a 2WD
which has as much room as you can every have on a passenger vehicle.

So, I suspect, the job doesn't get any easier than the one I did, since
there is no 4WD to deal with and the amount of room is astronomical
compared to, oh, say, a typical sports sedan.

I didn't count the hours it took me, but if I count four hours each day of
actual work, that's 6x4=24 hours, which is, for me, acceptable because I
spent a lot of time learning, cleaning, experimenting, making tools,
modifying the jack, swearing, and cursing, and, drinking copious amounts of
lemonade kindly brought to me every few hours by the grandchildren (who
felt sorry for me but who didn't know I was in heaven as I finally, after
decades of being scared, did my first transmission).

The kid whose car it is came over today to pick it up, and she tested it on
the highway, and it worked fine she said (I only tested it locally).

It has 180K miles, where it's definitely only the second clutch as the
vehicle has been in the family since it was born. So a clutch on this
vehicle lasts about 90K miles, on average, since the last one was slipping
also when it was replaced (by a mechanic).

Total cost to me was something around $250 for tools and another $250 for
parts, so it's an approximately $500 gift to the kid who works as a
secretary so she doesn't have a lot of money.

I never could have had the confidence if I didn't know you would help, so
I'm extremely glad for your patience on my rookie questions. I didn't even
realize that the alignment tool did, for example, until *after* I had the
transmission in. And I didn't understand why people said to put it in high
gear since I didn't need to touch the gears at any point in time, so I only
figured that one out after I had trouble getting it back in.

Things like that slowed me down, where, if I had formal education in auto
mechanics, I would have known a LOT more before I did the job. As it is,
the job taxed my tools to the utmost limit, where I was so happy that I had
dozens of assorted half inch and three-eighths inch extensions and swivels
and sockets and wrenches.

In fact, I think this is the first time in my life that I *required*
half-inch tools, since up until now, the 3/8ths inch extensions didn't
twist more than the torque required. But I never had to use 30 inches of
extension before either - which is what is required for the top two bolts
on the transmission hump.

Note in the DIY: Removing the conning tower seems like it would have made a
HUGE improvement in easy of removal!

> I did a Loadstar school bus clutch with the shop foreman (an idiot
> dutchman) barking over my shoulder when I was about 19 in less than 4
> hours - and that included pulling the trans, dropping the clutch,
> installing the clutch (having the disk slip out of place and hastilly
> re-installing it) totally re-assembling then finding I had, in haste,
> installed the disk backwards - dissassembling it again. puttingthe
> disk back in the right way, knocking the release bearing off the fork,
> reinstalling it in haste, checking the clutch BEFORE reistalling the
> floor this time, and having the pedal drop to the floor because I had
> put the release bearing in backwards, dis-assembling, reinstalling the
> release bearing, retesting (got it right this time) and buttoning it
> back up.

Wow. 4 hours. Jesus. I didn't even have all the tools assembled, made and
modified in four hours!

I see you accidentally did what I did which is to knock the release bearing
(aka throwout bearing) off, where any tug on the fork caused the TOB to
fall off the splined transmission shaft until I rubber-banded it in place.
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=5303450clutch_fork.jpg>

I didn't remove that rubber band until I put the slave cylinder back!
(NOTE: I recently rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave
cylinder and replaced the two rubbery plastic bushings in the shift lever,
so, except for the actual transmission itself, the entire shifting system
is all new in the last year.)

I did buy too many jacks though - as now I have an ATV jack in addition to
my transmission jack to store for the rest of my life! (I've already
offered my neighbors the right to borrow them since "they" have ATVs, but I
don't.) <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=9075127atv_trans_jack.jpg>

> Nasty 400 lb? transmission, and working INSIDE the bell housing as the
> bell housing served as the rear mounting for the engine.

Yuck. You never forget those jobs!
(I envy you for all your experience!)

> I was a few minutes over flat rate time - even with all the screw-ups
> - and I gave the shop foreman a good piece of my mind when it was all
> over.

It's commendable, with the reassembly you did, that you met flat rate.

> "push me and all you'll do is slow mw down - or get run over in the
> process"

Luckily, my wife and kids left me alone, which is all well and good as they
would have been standing over me like your foreman was, just slowing me
down even further.

> Same fool who couldn't diagnose a headlight problem on a 510 Datsun -
> all 4 sealed beams were burned out. He kept asking me questions while
> I was working on another job. After his second or third question I
> knew what was wrong - but he kept asking the wrong questions for 2
> hours - while trying to tell me how to fix a dome light that would not
> shut oiff on a brand new Ambassador (found a screw through the wiring
> harness)

Wow. That's something you just have to trace to find since you wouldn't
expect a screw in a wiring harness normally. You work backward or forward,
usually backward, until the power or continuity is shot, and that tells you
where the problem is ... if ... if you can get to it. (A wiring harness can
be anywhere though.)

> When I finished the Ambassador I said "you still working on that
> datsun?"
>
> He said "you so F'n smart - YOU fix it"

Hehhehheh...

> I hollered to the parts department "2 5001s and 2 5006s please", then
> proceded to replace the sealed beams , without checking ANYTHING
> first.

Wow. You figured it out just on the problem set presented to you.

> He was MAD that I hadn't told him what was wrong - bet the silly ass
> had never asked me. He's managed to ask just about every other
> question it was possible to come up with (something like you do on
> accaision, Arlen) - but never asked me what I thought the problem was.

I do ask a lot of questions ... but ... on the good side ... you have to
admit that I think for myself (I don't think what everyone else thinks for
example, in that I think about octane, and I think about how to diagnose as
I never throw parts at a problem unless I'm backed up against the wall, and
I always look at the parts to figure out how they work and I often take
them apart for an autopsy to see how they failed.

I should note to you that I'm extremely well educated but not in this
stuff. I have multiple degrees, but in fields completely different than car
or home repair. So I'm very used to asking questions, and I'm extremely
used to what people "think" is the answer intuitively, often (and sometimes
almost always, at least in the case of quantum mechanics) is dead wrong.

So, for example, people "think" you can't balance tires at home ... but you
can. And they think you can't mount them at home - but you can. And they
think you can't measure alignment at home, but you can (I still need to
prove that though).

Another thing about me, Clare, that is extremely different than most
people, is that I CARE about being a good Usenet citizen, even as I value
my privacy. So I always *respond* to most people in any thread I author,
which some people consider trolling, which is ridiculous since I'm simply
being responsive.

I almost always prove what I say I'm doing with photos.
And I almost always write up a DIY to give back to the team.

I almost always summarize the results in the end, and I thank the people
for helping me (where, I often condemn those who don't like the few who
posted early on in this thread, such as Wade Garrett who has been stalking
me from the iOS threads) but in this case, I had too much on my hands to
even bother to tell those useless posters to shut up.

I'm DIFFERENT than almost everyone you've ever met.

How many, for example, write a detailed DIY every time they do a big job?

Other than my privacy fetish (which drives some of you nuts I think even
though I never hide who I am so anyone who claims to figure it out isn't
the genius they think they are simply because it's trivial to do), I'm one
of the best Usenet posters there is because I ask a question and prove
everything I say, and try out every reasonable suggestion (if possible) and
I respond to everyone in the same manner in which they responded to me.

I'm only on Usenet to ask questions and to learn from people who have the
answers. I'm not here for idle chitchat, so I disappear until I have
another question.

I love to learn from you, and I will eventually do the six jobs few do at
home but you've done most of them.
1. Refuel a vehicle (I do it every week where I have it down to a science)
2. Mount, balance, & repair tires (I'm well past the tool break-even point)
3. Major transmission work (a clutch counts since R&R is the hard part)
4. Major internal engine work (I've never ripped an engine apart yet)
5. Paint a car (a grandchild has a handmedown I'd love to paint for her)
6. Align caster, camber & toe (this will be my next project for sure)

I think each of those things above has a DIFFERENT reason people don't do
them, where you have to admit at the very least, even if you disagree with
me, that I think for myself, so I don't follow what most people assume (and
which in some cases I've found to be dead wrong).

For example, refueling a vehicle is trivial, safe, and easy, and I've been
doing that for a decade or more at home (where if I ever get some money,
I'll buy even better gas-station equipment, which is surprisingly
inexpensive but where the limiting factor isn't the equipment but that they
don't deliver less than 200 gallons at a time in general).

Also, despite what most people think, and yes, I know you have TONS of
experience mounting and dynamically balancing a tire and you wouldn't do it
at home, I can mount and balance a sedan tire in fifteen minutes (and you
know that I don't make **** up), where in general, I take longer (because
I'm not in a rush) but it's never longer than a half hour elapsed time
where once you taught me about the "drop center", all was golden from there
(after I had to modify both the tire bead breaker and the tire mounting
tool).

I think the reason people DON'T do these 6 things is... sort of...
1. Fueling --- they don't have the room (I have more than a dozen acres)
2. Mounting --- they "think" it has to be dynamically balanced
3. Transmission --- it's a *lot* of work (whew!) but mostly just bolts
4. Engine --- it's even *more* work (where nobody can afford the downtime)
5. Paint --- you need skills and experience more than the tools
6. Align --- they don't realize how easy toe & camber are to measure

I may be wrong on all of that, because I don't know how people really
think, but you have to admit at least that I think for myself.

Take, for example, the mounting. I already know that mounting is *easy* on
passenger cars, and that it's only a bit harder on truck (SUV) tires.
Anyone who says it's not easy, or that you'll damage the rims (my Bimmer
rims are as soft as most alloy wheels and they're just fine) is talking out
of their ass - because I know - like you know - because I've done it about
25 times now (the tools paid for themselves in about 20 changes).

Anyone who thinks you can't patch plug from the inside doesn't know what
they're talking about. And anyone who thinks you must dynamically balance
every tire doesn't know what they're talking about (IMHO).

I had only one wobble in all this time, and that was due to doing the rear
brake drum wrong (it was a rookie mistake - where I've had disc brakes on
all my high end cars since the 80s until now that I do other people's cars
to help them out. (I know you think that's a lawsuit waiting to happen, but
I do the same on their cars as I would mine where I *know* (as you do) how
many times mechanics skip steps.)

So, yes, I'm different.
I'm intelligent.
I can learn.
I care about my privacy.
I respond to almost everyone worth responding to.
I usually confront the cowardly troll bullies in the threads I author
I ask a question and work it until it's resolved
I post a resolution and almost always write a DIY
And then I disappear (until the next question).

The morons call that being a troll.
I call it being a good Usenet citizen who cares about privacy and doesn't
use the chitchat model (where in the chitchat model people post 99% to
other threads saying almost nothing of value and only 1% to their own
threads, where in the Q&A model, the opposite it true in every way).

> Clean it up, paint it gold, and keep it as a trophy - - - -

I have tools from the 60s, and even some from the 40's, like this grease
gun, where the grease must be thirty years or forty years old inside!
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7261355grease_gun.jpg>

QUESTION: That was my dad's grease gun. How old do you think it is?
(I don't know when he bought it as I inherited all his old tools.)

And these impact tools date to the mid 80's as I recall:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6129026airgun_sucks.jpg>

This Craftsman respirator I used when I was blowing out the bell housing
and flywheel dust dates to the 80s for sure when I first attempted
to paint a car (but ended up selling the car in the winter where if you've
never lived in a cold climate - you have no idea how much harder everything
is in the winter and when it rains a lot).
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7615636respirator.jpg>

And without a cutting wheel and bench grinder, fabricating these two
invaluable threaded dowels would not have been as easy as they we
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=9848347dowel_fab.jpg>

My next two jobs that you'll hear from me a
a. I want to paint a car, and,
b. I want to align a suspension.

I think both of those two are doable, but I will do my research first and
then, when I'm in the job itself, I may ask you for help to get past the
stumbling blocks.

I don't expect a miracle with the paint job, but anything will look better
than the handmedown paint that the kid has on the car now so I can't make
it much worse.

As for the alignment, this vehicle only has camber and toe in the front
that can be changed by twisting a bolt, so that's easy if I buy (or make)
toe plates. The measuring is easy but changing the toe with the weight on
the vehicle is a pain because of the rolling back and forth so I'll likely
just buy toe plates first. Also alignment is a mental bitch because
everything is in the wrong units. You measure inches, for example, but it's
usually in degrees to centerline. WTF. That causes your brain to hurt as
you use trig to figure out the translation.

At least camber is in degrees and you can measure degrees with today's
tools, so, the problem with camber is only getting a jig that works on
multiple vehicles since you have to offset the measuring tool parallel to
the wheel but away from the tire sidewall bulge (sure, there are ways to do
it with a plumb bob but I'd just go for the camber jig for ease of use).

Caster is usually too hard to measure directly, and for this car, it's not
settable anyway. You can calculate it, but what good is the calculation
when you can't set it.

In the rear, this vehicle only has camber and nothing else. So, when most
people think "alignment" they're thinking a $100K machine which is
optimized for a totally different use model than a guy checking his
alignment at home where time and the ability to measure everything isn't
the issue.

All you need is camber and toe for the most part, which means you need a
camber jig and toe plates and as accurate an electronic level as you an
afford.

Anyway, I'm DIFFERENT (which means we are different).
You don't enjoy changing tires, I do.
You think it's dangerous to not go to a mechanic, I think they skip steps.
You may think I'm a troll but I'm not and I am DOING stuff when I ask
things (I don't ask idly).

I should mention the only auto mechanics class I took was in high school in
the sixties, where I was a star pupil and the teacher's pet simply because
he never had anyone in his class so interested in the details. He once was
amazed that I rewound a motorcycle alternator and horn solenoid in the same
week, and that I kept asking questions about fluids, asking why the
viscosity didn't really matter but the API number did, or what really
needed distilled water (the battery) but not the coolant (in reality, once
you look at water chemistry where we lived). I took sulfuric acid from the
chem lab in high school (in those days, you didn't get expelled for
breaking the rules) and refilled my own battery - it lasted about a month
or two, as I recall).

I'm DIFFERENT than most people you've met - so I'm an acquired taste.

What I ask for, in this newsgroup, is the expertise of all the people here,
most of which outweighs mine because I'm educated in totally different
things.

HINT: Ask me about bacteria or electrical engineering and you'll get far
more than you bargained for.

Arlen Holder wrote:
> On 27 Jul 2018 18:10:52 GMT, rbowman wrote:
>
>> Reading between the lines he is not the principal driver. Maybe take it
>> for a long, gentle road trip before handing it over...
>
> She drove it today on the highway and said it didn't vibrate, which is good
> because I had mounted and balanced her tires and replaced her rear drums
> where I made a rookie mistake by not putting the drum linkages back right.
>
> This time, I rotated the tires again (she eats them up where I wish there
> was a way to cash in on the warranty since the car is aligned
> professionally and the tires are rotated five times a year in the X and
> then H pattern repeatedly (X then H then X then H, etc.).
>
> I wonder if there is a way to "prove" you rotated tires when you do them at
> home? I never cashed in on a tire warranty in my life so I don't know how
> it works (do you ship them back the four tires, for example?).
>
> I learned a lot I hadn't expected to learn, by the way, such as this is
> what the reverse sensor looks like apparently:
> <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2972461reverse_switch.jpg>
>
> And this is apparently the speedometer sensor:
> <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8225189speedometer.jpg>
>
> And that the clutch disc is asymmetric so it has to go in only this way:
> <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=4293915clutch_disc.jpg>
>
> Filling the transmission with the Red Line MT-90 was a breeze from the top:
> <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6063171trans_fliud.jpg>
>
> But I wonder what this strange-looking "K" means on the conning tower?
> <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1401901tower_k.jpg>
>

You should record all this long saga to a dvd, and give it to your great
grandchildren.

They will sit around campfires in 2060 and show the videos while
roasting marshmallows.

Maybe in 2160, they will still recollect old gram pa's heroic efforts in
the olden days.

Maybe a statue in the town square.

>
> HINT: Ask me about bacteria or electrical engineering and you'll get far
> more than you bargained for.
>

They are widely different field, but I am interested in both, for two
different reasons.

Do tell please. I welcome your expertise.

On 28 Jul 2018 16:23:08 GMT, Hank Rogers wrote:

> They are widely different field, but I am interested in both, for two
> different reasons.
>
> Do tell please. I welcome your expertise.

You have to ask a question, silly!

I can't just spill my guts about both.

All I can say is I have higher degrees in both.

My point was I know nothing whatsoever about auto mechanics, so that's why
I very much appreciate your advice and help.

Here is the nascent (UNFINISHED!!!!!!!!!!!) WIP tutorial for replacing a
clutch on this specific vehicle.

Bear in mind that I have NOT yet added all the pictures, and I haven't
added umpteen notes that I added to this tutorial while I was doing the
work.

This is the UNFINISHED!!!!!! tutorial BEFORE I did the job, based on my
searches in the net, where I never found a single usable step-by-step
tutorial for this particular make and model vehicle.

Buy parts:
.. Aisen/Koyo clutch kit (Rockauto part number CKT-051
- Aisin disc stamped DTX-137L & 6H26
- Aisin diaphragm stamped Aisin 17.01.20 & CTX-106
- Koyo pilot bearing molded 6201 RS ROM 017 & Koyo 6201 RS ROM 057
- Koyo pilot bearing box printed 6201RSC3 & PBT-002
- Koyo release stamped Koyo Japan 49H & RCT356SA9 (aka throwout bearing)
- Koyo release bearing box printed RBT-004 & RCT356SA9 & FG Gen M1412
- Plastic alignment tool stamped USA 11 (this simple tool is critical!)
.. Note that some people use an old transmission shaft as the alignment tool
.. Rear engine oil seal Toyota Part No.: 90311-88003 (confirmed) $47.59
.. Rear transmission oil seal 90311-30014 (confirmed) $15.41

Consider buying optional parts:
.. Consider new sway bar bushings (since you will likely remove it anyway)
.. Consider a new fuel filter
.. Consider both upstream & downstream oxygen sensors (especially upstream)
.. Consider starter motor replacement (since you don't want to do it again!)
.. Consider rotating tires (since you have the vehicle in the air anyway)
.. Consider replacing differential gear lube (since you're in that area)

Buy fluids:
.. 2.7 quarts replacement Red Line Mt-90 75W90 GL4 gear lube
.. Thick high-moly graphite grease to lube the spline input shaft
.. Thick high-moly graphite grease to lube the ID of throwout bearing
.. Locktite blue (not red!) for the bellhousing & flywheel & starter bolts
.. Toyota FIPG (for the rear engine oil seal, but only if you remove the
plate)
.. No grease on diaphragm springs, pressure plate or throwout bearing face.
.. Light grease on throwout bearing ID, input shaft splines
.. Light grease on clutch fork pivot points & outside the shaft collar

Buy (or fabricate tools):
.. Transmission jack
.. Half-inch socket torque wrenches (from 30 foot pounds up to 85 foot
pounds)
.. Pilot bearing puller (although every one I tested was too large to fit!)
.. You must have 14mm 12-point half-inch sockets! (6 points will never fit!)
.. You must have 30 inches of 1/2-inch socket extension bars & swivels!
.. It helps to have the same 30 inches in 3/8ths-inch (for non-torque use)
.. Ersatz 17mm alignment pins, quantity=2 (M12x1.25 by about 3 inches long)

Torque specs:
.. 14 foot pounds, pressure plate to engine
.. 18 foot pounds, transmission rubber rear mount bolts
.. (19 ft lbs+1/4 turn for 3RZ or 65ftlbs for the 2RZ & 5VZ), flywheel
.. 30 foot pounds, starter bolts
.. 48 foot pounds, transmission crossmember-to-frame bolts
.. 54 foot pounds, bellhousing 17mm bolts
.. No loctite needed on any of these bolts is what is recommended by most

Photograph all components in situ:
.. Snap pictures of the cabin shift lever assembly before removal
.. Snap pictures of the wiring harness before removal
.. Snap pictures of the exhaust bracket location before removal
.. Snap pictures of the reverse sensor, speed sensor, & lambda sensors
.. Snap pictures of the driveshaft (and mark the shaft to differential)
.. Snap pictures of the transmission from all sides
.. Snap pictures of the starter motor from all sides
.. Snap pictures of the sway bar
.. Snap pictures of all the bell housing bolts

While the vehicle is still on the ground:
.. Disconnect the battery negative cable (10mm socket)
(This is needed because you will be removing the starter motor)

Remove shift lever from transmission conning tower:
.. The shift lever can be in any position, where neutral is fine
.. From the passenger side cabin, unscrew the shifter knob
(counterclockwise)
.. There is no need to loosen or remove either side brown plastic garnish
.. Don't remove the brown plastic garnish on either side - just leave it
.. Pry up the front of the black ashtray (it has a clip on each of the 4
corners)
.. Pull out on the driver side garnish
.. At the same time, pry up on the ashtray toward driver side door
.. That should remove the black ashtray from all four corner clips
.. With a P2 Phillips or 10mm socket, remove 4 rectangular-plate screws
.. Pull up on the boot until it stops about halfway up on the shaft
.. Don gloves & use a 1/8" flathead scewdriver for force
.. Press down hard on the inner ring of the shiftlever cap
.. Use the screwdriver as a pushrod & rotate the cap 1/8 turn
counterclockwise
.. This will pop it out
.. Remove the cabin gear shift mechanism
.. While above, snap pictures of the pitch-fork-shaped wiring harness:
.. http://www.showstop.org/images/misc/r150F-harness.jpg
.. If possible, unbolt the "conning tower" for the shift mechanism
(this is optional but will be extremely helpful later on)

Lift vehicle:
.. Chock rear wheels & set parking brake
.. Place two jackstands as far forward as you dare (under the A frame is
good)
.. Place two jackstands on the rear axle
.. Jack the car as high as you dare, since you'll need about two feet
.. The bellhousing alone is about 22 inches off the ground on the stand
.. 24 inches to the horizontal portion of the front frame wouldn't be too
much
.. Attempt to level the vehicle so the engine is level with the trans
.. While below, snap more pictures of the pitch-fork-shaped wiring harness
.. Notice the passenger side oxygen sensors before & after the cat
.. Notice the passenger side speedometer sensor
.. Notice the driver side reverse sensor
.. Notice the three main harness clips on the top of the transmission
.. Notice the dastardly location of the driver side starter motor

Remove front wheels:
.. Remove the front driver-side wheel (mandatory)
.. Pull back both access hole flaps so that you can access the starter motor
.. Optionally remove the passenger-side front wheel
.. You don't need to remove the rear wheels unless you'll be rotating them

Remove front sway bar:
.. Optionally remove the 6 bolts on the front sway bar
.. Remove the front sway bar

Drain fluid:
.. Loosen both the 24mm fill plug & 24mm drain plug
.. Drain the existing old Red Line MT-90 80W90 using the 24mm drain plug
.. Take care to fish out the aluminum washer if it doesn't stay on the plug

Remove slave cylinder:
.. Remove 2x12mm bolts for the clutch slave cylinder
.. Hang clutch slave cylinder safely on hangar wire if necessary
.. Optionally, rubber band the clutch fork in the forward position
(this is so that the throwout bearing doesn't slide off the splines)

Disconnect exhaust pipe bracket:
.. Don't disconnect the exhaust pipe (leave the pipe exactly where it is)
.. Remove two 17mm bolts holding exhaust pipe bracket to transmission
housing
.. Remove the 12mm bolts holding exhaust pipe into the bracket
.. (You MUST remove the bracket as it will prevent transmission removal!)

Remove passenger side wiring harness connections:
.. Remove 1x12mm bolt holding the upstream O2 sensor bracket
.. Remove 1x12mm bolt holding the speedometer in place
.. Put a pan under the speedometer to catch inevitable drippings
.. Wiggle & pull out the three-screw plastic speedometer sensor
.. (Note that it's easier to unbolt sensors first & then unclip them)

Remove driver side wiring harness connections:
.. Remove 1x12mm bolt holding harness next to the fill plug
.. Loosen (do not remove) 1x1-1/16 bolt holding reverse sensor
.. It's impossible to twist off the reverse sensor so don't try!
.. Twist reverse sensor 180 degrees to access clip connection
.. Press the clip connection to disconnect the harness from the sensor

Remove the 3 main harness connectors on top of the transmission:
.. (Access all three from the driver side using socket extensions)
.. Remove the 14mm harness bracket bolt at the bell-to-engine line
.. Remove the 10mm harness bracket bolt at the bell-waist line
.. Remove the 14mm harness bracket bolt at the trans centerline
.. From below, fish the loose harness into the shift lever opening
.. From above, wire hanger the harness to the steering wheel

Remove driveshaft:
.. Mark the alignment on both ends of the driveshaft
.. Remove the four rear-facing drive shaft 14mm bolts
.. Temporarily release the parking brake if necessary
.. Twist the drive shaft with the parking brake off to access the bolts
.. Pull the back end down & pull driveshaft out of the transmission
.. You may need the driveshaft to align the transmission splines later on
.. Reset the parking brake

Remove the starter housing bolts:
.. Remove the lower 14mm bolt holding the brake line & a harness connector
.. Remove the upper 14mm bolt holding the top of the starter to the
bellhousing
.. You can't easily access the bolts so try from below, above, & from the
side
.. It's MUCH easier if you remove *all* bellhousing harness connectors!
.. Allow the entire harness to fall straight down at the bellhousing
.. Or tuck the harness into the driver side wheel well
.. The starter motor will fall down of its own weight so tie it securely
.. (It can't be overly stressed to remove all harness connections first!)

..... work in progress ... I need to add a LOT to the rest of this DIY ...

Remove the bellhousing bolts (count all seven!, plus 2 for the starter):
.. Start with bottom bolts before you place the transmission jack in the way
.. Then do the upper bolts, once the transmission jack is in place.
.. 1st remove the forward facing 14mm bolt & nut at the 5:30 bell housing
position
.. 2nd remove the forward facing 14mm bolt & nut at the 7:00 bell housing
position
.. 3rd remove the rearward facing 14mm bolt at the 6:30 bell housing
position
.. 4th remove the rearward facing 14mm bolt at the 3:30 bell housing
position
.. Then remove the engine-facing plate covering the lower half of the bell
housing
.. 5th (just in case) remove the forward facing 12mm bolt at the 11:00 bell
housing position
.. This bolt holds some sort of cooling or vacuum lines the back of the
engine
.. 6th remove the forward facing 17mm bolt at the 9:30 bell housing position
.. Access that bolt from underneath using a sockt + short swivel + 3"
extension
.. 7th remove the forward facing 17mm bolt at the 11:30 bell housing
position
.. Access that bolt from the rear of the transmission behind the crossmember
.. I used about 30 inches of 1/2-inch socket extensions (no swivel needed)
.. 8th remove the forward facing 17mm bolt at the 12:30 bell housing
position
.. I used about 30 inches of 1/2-inch socket extensions (a swivel was
needed)
.. I used about 30 inches of 1/2-inch socket extensions (a swivel was
needed)
.. I used a 17mm impact socket + 5" swivel + 10" + 6" + 10" + 3" half-inch
extensions
.. I first tried 3/8" extensions but they simply twisted given the force
.. It's still useful to have 3/8" extensions for non-torque removal &
reassembly
.. I used a 17mm socket + 6" swivel + 24" + 6" three-eights-inch extensions

Check that everything is out of the way:
.. Zip tie any cables in place so that they don't get damaged later
.. Then support the transmission with a transmission jack or jack saddle
.. It is said that the rear will be slightly lower than the front for the
jack
.. Strap the transmission in but rout the straps under any wires

Disconnect the rear of the transmission:
.. Remove the 12mm & 14mm bolts holding the rear transmission mount assembly
.. Tip the front down an twist the front of the transmission to the driver
side
.. Pull out straight where the shaft must be aligned & the dowels stick
sometimes
.. Keep the straps loose until you pull away & then tighten the straps
.. Lower the transmission (by hand is ok if you can)
.. Mark the drive shaft to the crank shaft alignment with a sharpie
.. Flywheel bolts will require an impact driver almost certainly.

Disassembly:
.. Don't breathe the dust (use a respirator if necessary)
.. Use a star pattern to remove 12mm bolts holding clutch onto bell housing
.. Snap pictures of the asymmetrical nature of the clutch disc before
removing!
.. Note the asymetric springs as they stick out of the clutch disc!
.. (The Toyota 2.7L I4 engine has the disc springs toward the pressure
plate)
.. (The Toyota 3.4L V6 engine has the disc springs toward the flywheel)
.. Remove the clutch disc
.. Remove the pressure plate
.. Remove the ten (12-point) 14mm bolts ringing the flywheel to the engine
.. Have the flywheel replaced or resurfaced
.. Remove the flywheel pilot bearing with a bearing puller

Alignment pins:
.. Consider picking up exact bolts but 2 to 3 inches longer
.. Cut off the heads, & saw a screwdriver channel
.. Use them as alignment pins when replacing
.. Notice the steel dowels between the engine & transmission

On reassembly (which most DIYs ignore), these topics came up in other DIYs:
.. A screwdriver wedged into the flywheel teeth immobilizes it for
tightening
.. It is said that so does a punch through one of the flywheel holes
.. Consider the wiring harness layout while lifting the transmission back
.. Be in 5th gear when aligning splines (allows output & input shaft to
turn)
.. Input shaft alignment stage 1 is getting splines to go into the clutch
disc.
(Time 142 seconds on [url="https://youtu.be/9UmrCl2nLKM?t=142"]
shows the alignment problem.)
.. Input shaft alignment stage 2 is the last inch onto the input shaft
bearing
.. Jack fine tuning matters last inch (use bellhousing bolts as alignment
pins)
.. It is said to grease the top & inside of the clutch fork ends
.. Grease the adjoining
surfaces
of the "throwout bearing" (also sometimes called the "release bearing").
.. Grease the divot in the middle of the clutch fork
.. Just before you install the clutch slave cylinder (aka "release
cylinder"),
grease the divot at the end fork
.. Cover the clutch fork mushroom bolt with HD grease

As a learning process, when you have the trans out, select low gear,
turn the output shaft & discover why top gear is the choice when
reasembling.

DIY 5VZ
http://www.ttora.com/forum/2-early-t...lutch-job.html
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runne...enance/clutch/
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...t-writeup.html
..
3RZFE:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ck-advice.html

On 28 Jul 2018 16:08:57 GMT, Hank Rogers wrote:

> You should record all this long saga to a dvd, and give it to your great
> grandchildren.

What I really love to do, for posterity, is write tutorials.
I just posted the nascent tutorial to one of your other posts.
Take a look at it, and note two things:
a. I don't skip a single step (not a single bolt)
b. I have pictures of everything

What I'd *love* to do is rip apart an old car and write the "hanes" manual
where I'd do so much better than does Chilton or the FSM that it wouldn't
be funny.

Of course, my method works for a "specific" car, so that would be my angle.
A specific model, year, and engine and transmission.

Do you think there would be a market for such a car-specific (completely
unlike Hanes/Chilton/FSM) perfect no-step-missed DIY as I write?

On 28 Jul 2018 20:27:03 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

> It lets you know if something is bent - and if it is you'll be
> chasing your tail for a LONG time trying to find out why the car won't
> run straight hands off - - - -

I completely understand.
The "assumption" is that it's like a doctor's physical, of sorts.

It's more preventative medicine than corrective in that if your car has
been in an accident, that's out of the scope of what I'm going to
implement.

The assumption is the car has not been in an accident and it has been fully
"aligned" at some point in the reasonable past where the history is known
to you.

Under those circumstances, checking the things you can adjust is what I'm
speaking about.

It's a philosophical thing, where if you have money to waste, go have a
blast getting an alignment every month. But if you want to be pragmatic,
then ensure the car is aligned properly, and then periodically check the
caster, camber and toe, oh, say, every month or three.

It's a probability thing.
Can the entropy be such that the entire frame will suddenly bend on you?
Yup. There's a one in a trillion trillion trillion chance that this will
happen. (this is how entropy works, by the way)

But we're talking normal probabilities here.
Not accidents.

It's a *big* distinction.

On Sun, 29 Jul 2018 03:01:59 -0000 (UTC), Arlen Holder > wrote:

>On 28 Jul 2018 16:08:57 GMT, Hank Rogers wrote:
>
>> You should record all this long saga to a dvd, and give it to your great
>> grandchildren.
>
>What I really love to do, for posterity, is write tutorials.
>I just posted the nascent tutorial to one of your other posts.
>Take a look at it, and note two things:
>a. I don't skip a single step (not a single bolt)
>b. I have pictures of everything
>
>What I'd *love* to do is rip apart an old car and write the "hanes" manual
>where I'd do so much better than does Chilton or the FSM that it wouldn't
>be funny.
>
>Of course, my method works for a "specific" car, so that would be my angle.
>A specific model, year, and engine and transmission.
>
>Do you think there would be a market for such a car-specific (completely
>unlike Hanes/Chilton/FSM) perfect no-step-missed DIY as I write?

Nah, no market for it. The manufacturer has shop manuals for sale.
I've had them for my last 4 cars. They can be costly, but I've managed to buy used ones on
Ebay. I think the most expensive was about 45 bucks, but my cars were 10 years old when I
bought them.
But they can lead you down the wrong road. For instance, the procedure to replace the
motor mounts on my '97 Lumina looked way too complicated and costly.
I found a simple procedure on Youtube, and did it that way.

On 07/28/2018 04:08 PM, Arlen Holder wrote:
> I didn't count the hours it took me, but if I count four hours each day of
> actual work, that's 6x4=24 hours, which is, for me, acceptable because I
> spent a lot of time learning, cleaning, experimenting, making tools,
> modifying the jack, swearing, and cursing, and, drinking copious amounts of
> lemonade kindly brought to me every few hours by the grandchildren (who
> felt sorry for me but who didn't know I was in heaven as I finally, after
> decades of being scared, did my first transmission).

You didn't even get the requisite trip back to the parts store to get
the right clutch and pressure plate. Ford was creative that year and you
were never sure what you were going to find. Buy something and
inevitably it was the wrong one.

I did manage to catch the carb rebuild kit before I got out the door at
the parts store. I glanced at the box and it said Rochester. U-turn and
a pointed question to the clerk "Are you sure about this, Sparky?" Even
Ford wasn't that eclectic.