Idler Pully

I just replaced an alternator in a 97 SOHC - through the wheel well. I
didn't pull the PS so it was a bit tight getting to the top bolt. The
tensioner takes a 14mm wrench.


"Dave" > wrote in message ...
> Wow. If you've gotten that much mileage from those parts,
> you're doing pretty well! The last time I heard a bearing whine from
> under the hood of my SC2, it turned out to be one of the alternator
> bearings. If you take off the right front tire and splash shield, you can
> change the alternator without touching the PS pump. With the tire and
> shield
> removed you can also get to the tensioner and idler pulley.
> The tensioner is easy, but you'll need an offset box wrench
> (I <think> it was 15mm) and some patience for the idler.
>
> Dave
>
> Barry Schnoor wrote:
>
> > Okay, I've narrowed down the whine in the engine...it's either the
> > alternator, the tensioner or the idler pully...and I'm leaning toward
the
> > tensioner or idler pully, since that's where the sound seems the louded.
> >
> > I might just change them all...they're all original with 157,000 miles.
> >
> > Any tricks or hints on the idler pully? Looks like I have to pull the
> > engine mount to do that job.
> >
> > I can do the alternator and tensioner together. Part's aren't very
> > expensive.
> >
> > And...what does the idler pully DO?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Barry
>

>Take your Belt off and see if the Idler Pully spins freely. When it spins
>see if you can hear a humming sound or if you can feel the bearing bounce as
>it turns.
>
>As for the ALT.. Well depengine on what you have on your car, you will need
>to remove the Power steering pump. Some have had sucess removing the Alt
>from underneth.

My first suspect would be the alternator. You don't need to remove the PS pump
to do it. The first time I changed it I did it from the bottom entirely, the
second time I pulled the pass frt tire and splash shields and that made it much
easier. The top bolt is a little annoying to get to, but other then that its a
simple job.

Be extra careful to properly "tighten" both bolts on the alternator.
It is easy to not get them right, and then the alternator will
move/wobble when the engine runs. That will destroy the part in short
order and you will not notice it until the damage is done.

I also take off the plastic wheel well to replace these parts. It
only takes a few minutes and the job is easy. With care, you can
"save" the plastic plugs/fasteners for reuse. The cost of the
fasteners are not cheap, especially if you go to a dealer.

"Barry Schnoor" > wrote in message >...
> Okay, I've narrowed down the whine in the engine...it's either the
> alternator, the tensioner or the idler pully...and I'm leaning toward the
> tensioner or idler pully, since that's where the sound seems the louded.
>
> I might just change them all...they're all original with 157,000 miles.
>
> Any tricks or hints on the idler pully? Looks like I have to pull the
> engine mount to do that job.
>
> I can do the alternator and tensioner together. Part's aren't very
> expensive.
>
> And...what does the idler pully DO?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Barry

When mine squealed it was the tensioner. Got one at a junk yard for $15 two
years ago and it is still working.
Alex
"paul" > wrote in message
om...
> Be extra careful to properly "tighten" both bolts on the alternator.
> It is easy to not get them right, and then the alternator will
> move/wobble when the engine runs. That will destroy the part in short
> order and you will not notice it until the damage is done.
>
> I also take off the plastic wheel well to replace these parts. It
> only takes a few minutes and the job is easy. With care, you can
> "save" the plastic plugs/fasteners for reuse. The cost of the
> fasteners are not cheap, especially if you go to a dealer.
>
> "Barry Schnoor" > wrote in message
>...
> > Okay, I've narrowed down the whine in the engine...it's either the
> > alternator, the tensioner or the idler pully...and I'm leaning toward
the
> > tensioner or idler pully, since that's where the sound seems the louded.
> >
> > I might just change them all...they're all original with 157,000 miles.
> >
> > Any tricks or hints on the idler pully? Looks like I have to pull the
> > engine mount to do that job.
> >
> > I can do the alternator and tensioner together. Part's aren't very
> > expensive.
> >
> > And...what does the idler pully DO?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Barry