newbee with brake light problem

dansplans wrote:

> Hi folks
> I have been lurking around here and TheSamba for the last 6 months or so,
> since I got the bug to have a Bug again. I had a 1963 in 1972 and now I am
> the proud owner of a 1972 Super from California.
>
> The body is good with the exception of a small dent in the trunk lid and
> another on the engine hood. The pans are good except for a poor partial
> replacement under the battery. There is no rust at all around the shock
> towers. It starts after 2 or three tries and runs rough until warm.
>
> I want to drive it for the summer and start a complete restoration. I am
> completely new to body work and a novice at mechanical work. But at 55 and
> my last child out of university and away from home, it's time for something
> new.
>
> I have a Haynes manual on the way from Ebay. Are there any other books that
> I should get?
>
> I have 2 immediate problems to be repaired before it's ready to go.
>
> 1) There are no brake lights. The bulbs are good, the signal lights work as
> do the tail lights. I can't find a switch anywhere.
>
> 2) The clutch engages much too high for my comfort, within the top inch of
> the travel. I have adjusted the cable as far as I can at the transmission
> end with little results. Is there another adjustment elsewhere?
>
> Dan
>
> PS By the way, Mario, I am still waiting for pictures of the beige Super as
> I am still interested.
>
>

Unlike Detroit iron, the brake switch(es) are hydraulic and are
screwed into the Master Cylinder. Haynes will show that.
The switches are special as they operate the dash warning
light as well. You can reach the switches by removing the
front wheel.

But check Fuse #1 first. Change it even if it "looks" OK.

If you go to this page of my web site:
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/elec.htm
it shows the wiring of the brake switches.

Also, go he
http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring.html
and download the diagram for your entire car.

Join this forum:
http://www.superbeetlesonly.com/foru...hp?showforum=9
there is a lot of tech help posted besides the forum.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Hi folks
I have been lurking around here and TheSamba for the last 6 months or so,
since I got the bug to have a Bug again. I had a 1963 in 1972 and now I am
the proud owner of a 1972 Super from California.

The body is good with the exception of a small dent in the trunk lid and
another on the engine hood. The pans are good except for a poor partial
replacement under the battery. There is no rust at all around the shock
towers. It starts after 2 or three tries and runs rough until warm.

I want to drive it for the summer and start a complete restoration. I am
completely new to body work and a novice at mechanical work. But at 55 and
my last child out of university and away from home, it's time for something
new.

I have a Haynes manual on the way from Ebay. Are there any other books that
I should get?

I have 2 immediate problems to be repaired before it's ready to go.

1) There are no brake lights. The bulbs are good, the signal lights work as
do the tail lights. I can't find a switch anywhere.

2) The clutch engages much too high for my comfort, within the top inch of
the travel. I have adjusted the cable as far as I can at the transmission
end with little results. Is there another adjustment elsewhere?

Dan

PS By the way, Mario, I am still waiting for pictures of the beige Super as
I am still interested.

On Jun 18, 9:16 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
> dansplans wrote:
> > Hi folks
> > I have been lurking around here and TheSamba for the last 6 months or so,
> > since I got the bug to have a Bug again. I had a 1963 in 1972 and now I am
> > the proud owner of a 1972 Super from California.
>
> > The body is good with the exception of a small dent in the trunk lid and
> > another on the engine hood. The pans are good except for a poor partial
> > replacement under the battery. There is no rust at all around the shock
> > towers. It starts after 2 or three tries and runs rough until warm.
>
> > I want to drive it for the summer and start a complete restoration. I am
> > completely new to body work and a novice at mechanical work. But at 55 and
> > my last child out of university and away from home, it's time for something
> > new.
>
> > I have a Haynes manual on the way from Ebay. Are there any other books that
> > I should get?
>
> > I have 2 immediate problems to be repaired before it's ready to go.
>
> > 1) There are no brake lights. The bulbs are good, the signal lights work as
> > do the tail lights. I can't find a switch anywhere.
>
> > 2) The clutch engages much too high for my comfort, within the top inch of
> > the travel. I have adjusted the cable as far as I can at the transmission
> > end with little results. Is there another adjustment elsewhere?
>
> > Dan
>
> > PS By the way, Mario, I am still waiting for pictures of the beige Super as
> > I am still interested.
>
> Unlike Detroit iron, the brake switch(es) are hydraulic and are
> screwed into the Master Cylinder. Haynes will show that.
> The switches are special as they operate the dash warning
> light as well. You can reach the switches by removing the
> front wheel.
>
> But check Fuse #1 first. Change it even if it "looks" OK.
>
> If you go to this page of my web site:http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/elec.htm
> it shows the wiring of the brake switches.
>
> Also, go hehttp://www.vintagebus.com/wiring.html
> and download the diagram for your entire car.
>
> Join this forum:http://www.superbeetlesonly.com/foru...hp?showforum=9
> there is a lot of tech help posted besides the forum.
>
> Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

here is an add for bentley manual

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifie....php?id=263033 these are
more specific to the model/year and seem to be the accepted bible in
vw repairs

Anton