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rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 1/6
Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part1
Posting-Frequency: 15 days Last-modified: 2005/7/21 Version: 5.9 This section is generally revised every 300 days. - - - - - - - - - - - - IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to . Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE. Instead, reply to faq2 at that allpar /dot/ com address. If that fails, go to allpar.com and provide feedback from there. Thank you. - - - - - - - - - - - - * Important Note * Chrysler generally refers to the full Chrysler Group (Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep) or, historically, Chrysler Corporation (including Plymouth, DeSoto, Eagle, and, while they belonged to Chrysler, Simca, Rootes Group, Sunbeam, Singer, and AMC). DISCLAIMER: While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact. The writers and the maintainer do not claim to be authorities. information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is given to the writers and maintainer; and that it is not published in book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer (David Zatz - contact me via allpar.com). - - - - - - - - - - - - If you did not obtain this FAQ from one of its newsgroups or from the rtfm.mit.edu archives, it is probably NOT a current edition. The latest copy may be obtained from http://www.allpar.com/faq.html - - - - - - - - - - - - CONTENTS Part 1 - Related Resources (groups, Web sites, recall/TSB info) Before You Post, Read This! The Newsgroup: charter, notes, rationale Frequently Asked Chrysler/Mopar Questions Up and Coming Important Chrysler folk Part 2 What should I do... 1. ... before I post? 2. ... if I have problems with Chrysler? 3. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for) Oil Filter Discussion List of All Engines Since 1966 1. Guide to V-8s List of All Body Styles Since 1966 Part 3 Engine Codes Classic Car Troubleshooting Reading codes without a scan tool (computer controlled, carbureted engines) Crankcase inlet air filter, 2.2/2.5 engines. Part 4 Driveability: engine idling, power, mileage, stalling Transmissions Note that this part will be discontinued Part 5 Funny noises Oil leaks Temperature stuff Note that this part will be discontinued Part 6 Troubleshooting (except what is covered by parts 3, 4, and 5) This part will be discontinued Related FAQs: Neon - maintained by the Neon mailing list. ************************************************** ********************** BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS 1. Check the FAQ. 2. Paranoia, overposting, and thoughtless posts are common. Show off your intelligence and maturity. 3. Do not confuse Chrysler with your dealership, the zone office, or the guy who picks up the phone. 4. If you are having problems with Chrysler or your dealer, read the relevant parts of the FAQ (1,2) and the Web site. 5. The natural inclination of people who have been mistreated is to respond to many posts. However, all companies sometimes make lemons or fail to treat customers well. Try to restrain anger. ************************************************** ********************** - Related Resources: http://allpar.com/ - major owner/enthusiast site * Models, history, repair, performance info Contact Chrysler via Net - http://www.dcanswers.com Phone Numbers 1-800-992-1997 Chrysler Customer Service - USA 1-800-465-2001 Chrysler Canada 1-800-255-9877 adapting new vehicles for people w/disabilities. 1-800-626-1523 Mopar catalog of manuals, videos, books (free) 1-800-677-5782 local 5-Star Dealer locator 1-800-998-1110 Neon Racing Headquarters 1(248)969-1690 Mopar Performance *technical* hot line ONLY for Mopar Performance issues!!! 1-800 448 0944 Chrysler Electronics (direct source for computers, etc) - also 256 464 1200 Other Resources Plymouth Owners Club (Plymouth & Fargo 25+ years old) 203 Main St., Cavalier, North Dakota 58220 Great magazine! http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/ WPC Restorers' Club (Walter P Chrysler Club) Also a good magazine! http://www.chryslerclub.org/ Chrysler Canada Customer Service: Chrysler Center, P.O. Box 1621 Windsor, Ontario N9A 4H6 Chrysler Europe NV Woluwedal 106-108, 1200 Brussels, Belgium - Europe Selected Mopar books, 20% off: http://www.allpar.com/books.html Want information on your 1967 or older car? The Chrysler Historical Foundation, at 12501 Chrysler Freeway, CIMS 410-11-21, Highland Park, MI 48288, will supply you with service manuals, build records, owner's manuals, and stock photos - all for a fee. If you have a Web site: http://www.weborial.com/ and http://www.apacheuser.com/ Other cars, http://www.acarplace.com/ Newsgroups rec.autos.makers.chrysler rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys alt.hi-po.mopars alt.hi-po.mopars.neon alt.autos.dodge.trucks others in rec.autos.* .. wiz.mopar Chrysler was the first make in the rec.autos.makers.* hierarchy, but Volkswagen was the first make to have a Big Seven newsgroup. Chrysler beat both GM and Ford to having a Big Seven newsgroup! ************************************************** ********************** Thanks to Gene Fusco for the Mopar Mailing List's FAQ; thanks also to Lloyd R. Parker, Wayne Toy, Bohdan Bodnar, and Dan Stern. *************************CONTENTS***************** ************ This is divided into corporate and car sections. I. CORPORATE 1. What does DCX mean? DaimlerChrysler (CC used to mean Chrysler Corp, DC used to mean Direct Connection, precursor to Mopar Performance) DCX is DaimlerChrysler's stock symbol. The X was rumored to stand for Honda at one point (as in DCH)). 2. What is Chrysler's US customer service number? 800-992-1997 3. What is Chrysler's e-mail address? Contact Chrysler via a Web form - see "contact us" on their brand web sites (dodge.com, chrysler.com, jeep.com). 4. What about the merger / takeover? Motivation: Chrysler execs got about $60 million in personal profit. Daimler bought Chrysler, doubling their profits. They reportedly siphoned off Chrysler profits via accounting tricks in order to make Mercedes look more profitable. Daimler got Chrysler's $8-10 billion war chest. One UAW and one German union rep on the new board. Only one Chrysler rep on the board left from original four. Many plants were sold. More are still being sold. Mitsubishi seems to be trying to separate as is Hyundai. Direct Mercedes domination seems to be fading, but money is reportedly still leaving Auburn Hills at an alarming rate, and decontenting to fix Mercedes' losses is noticeable. 7. What's the deal with Chrysler still using Mitsubishis? Just after Chrysler phased out the last Mitsubishi engine, Daimler announced that Chrysler would phase out all Chrysler four cylinders in favor of jointly designed fours. A joint small V6 is rumored now as well. The new engine is said to be a powerhouse, but it's not a Hyundai or Mitsubishi engine, it's a true joint venture. Details: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/world-engine.html As far as the next-generation Neons and Stratuses, they are also being jointly developed - we understand Chrylser is leading both, though they are using newer Mitsubishi basic platforms. (MMC has now decided not to use the mid-sized sedans.) The first Neon-replacement will be the Dodge Caliber. http://www.allpar.com/cars/dodge/caliber.html You can read about Chrysler's future vehicles at http://www.allpar.com/model/upcoming.html 8. What's the deal with Chrysler's names in Canada and elsewhere? Same names, different cars. Different names, same cars. For the history, see http://www.valiant.org/canada.html and http://www.allpar.com/world/ Dodge and Plymouth cars were both ended in Canada, but Dodge was later restored and is debuting in Europe after many decades. 9. How reliable are Consumer Reports' ratings? See the discussion at http://www.allpar.com/cr.html 10. How can I get help for problems Chrysler won't fix? See the discussion at http://www.allpar.com/trouble.html. Keep trying the Chrysler Customer Center. Know the TSBs. Visit http://www.nhtsa.gov ... keep trying and keep your cool. 11. What's the deal with Chrysler Europe, Simca, and Talbot? Chrysler owned Simca and Rootes/Sunbeam until the late 70s, but sales kept going up and down (usually down). Peugeot bought them and sold the Omni as the Talbot. They had Simca/Sunbeam engines (Lloyd Parker). The Centura sold in Australia was a Simca (Dan Stern). See http://www.allpar.com/world/ for many details. These cars and the former Rootes Group brands, such as Singer, Sunbeam, Hillman, and Humber, are covered by http://www.rootes-chrysler.co.uk/ 12. Why are so many Chrysler dealers so awful? Perpetual contracts. Organizational culture. Incorrect assumptions at all levels. Zone officials who think all customers are whiners and all dealers are honest. 13. What is Chrysler doing about it? Five Star program which requires better processes to be in place and does not rely solely on survey ratings helps SOME Chrysler dealers. It seems to be circumvented by less scrupulous dealers with less dedicated zone reps. ******** 14. Should I use high octane gas? Only if your car was designed for it (see your owner's manual) or if you've advanced the timing or your engine is knocking. According to Chrysler and others, many high-octane gasolines have a low driveability index, which can cause long cold start times, warm-up sags, hesitations, and driveway die outs. Under the law, ALL gasolines sold in the US must meet certain standards for detergent; if you really need to "drive your engine clean" get a bottle of Techron or Mopar engine cleaner. Turbo engines are usually designed to use premium. 20. Is X good for my engine? (includes Slick50) The Toyota FAQ (Todd Haverstock) sez: "Independent labs as well as engine manufacturer Briggs and Stratton have rendered a verdict that Slick 50 and similar oil treatments are useless." The Gasoline FAQ says most gasoline additives are useless. Others have weighed in on that score, and DuPont sued to prevent Slick 50 from using Teflon (unsuccessfully). For more details: http://www.tfb.com/sdmc/oil.html 21. Do I have a Chrysler or Mitsubishi (MMC) engine? See part 2. 22. Does the Mini really use a modified Neon engine? Yes, it's a smaller version of the Neon engine designed for European Neons and a small Chrysler that never materialized. The factory was a joint venture with Rover. The supercharged version is quite nice. 23. What does SOHC, SMPI, etc mean? What do I have? Note: No current Chrysler has a distributor or throttle body injection. * DIS means distributorless ignition system. No rotor! * SOHC and DOHC refer to the number of camshafts; one or two. * EFI means electronic fuel injection, such as the following: * TBI - throttle body injection; one or two injectors spray fuel into the air as it heads to the cylinders. * MPI uses one fuel injector for each cylinder. It sprays fuel in the intake manifold, firing at the intake valves. Smoother than TBI, with more power *and* better mileage. * SMPI is sequential multiple-point injection; the injector only fires when the fuel can go straight through the valve and into the cylinder instead of splashing onto a closed valve. * Direct injection sprays fuel directly into each cylinder. This is mainly used in diesel engines (thanks, Michael Turley!) -- Note: all current Chrysler products use DIS and returnless SMPI. Mitsubishi is pioneering direct injection for gas engines. The latest is coil on plug ignition which provides a separate coil for each spark plug, located right on top of the plug, for the best control and spark power. 25. What kind of oil should I use in my 2.2 or 2.5 liter engine? On February 7, 1995, a Chrysler engineer said 5W30 was best for 2.0, 2.2, and 2.5 liter non-turbo engines, for winter or year-round in climates such as that of New Jersey. All dealers I surveyed incorrectly recommended and used 10W30! - In 1993 and 1998 Chrysler said 5W30 was best for all its cars. - Dan Stern says synthetic 10W30 is better than natural 5W30. - The benefits of 5W30 or synthetics seem greatest in cold weather when oil is most viscous (before the engine warms). - Even GM recommends 5W30 on their Vortec V8s. Use Energy Conserving II and SH grades where possible. For my car, recommended oil changes are at 6 months / 7,500 miles. I change it at 6 months or 6,000 miles. GM says many owners do not need to change oil until 10,000 miles! If you are concerned, use synthetic and change at 6,000. ** CHECK YOUR MANUAL **. Dealers often suggest things like changing your antifreeze every three months to get easy money. If you exceed Chrysler's recommendations, do the easy work yourself. PS> Overheating after a an antifreeze change/radiator flushing means your mechanic didn't purge the system correctly. Be careful to thoroughly purge the system of air bubbles - or invest in head gaskets. This is VERY important. 5W30 is generally recommended for the 2.0 and 2.4 liter engines, too. HOWEVER in some engines 5W30 is NOT recommended. If you have the 2.7 V6 we STRONGLY recommend synthetic. 25a. What about oil for other engines? Check your owner's manual and don't rely on mechanics, who often rely on out of date memories for their information. If you have a turbo, we strongly recommend synthetic oil. Follow the recommended oil change intervals. GM says many owners do not need to change oil until 10,000 miles! But follow the book, not the 3/3,000 mentality. 26. What kind of engine do I have ??? Raise the hood and check the emissions sticker. You can decode your vehicle ID number (VIN) using most car manuals. The emissions sticker will tell you the displacement of the engine. 27. What is a Mopar? Do I have one? Mopar is slang for a Chrysler-produced car. Some extend it to AMCs and to MMC products (e.g. Colt) sold by DC; and some restrict it to high performance only. It is the name of Chrysler's parts division. Mopar stands for MOtor PARts. MoPar is a registered trademark. 28. Which are the Diamond Star models? Diamond Star models are those built by the Diamond Star (DSM) plant in Illinois. This was a joint venture but is now 100% MMC. The Stratus/Sebring/Avenger Coupes and Eclipse are the only DSM models. The Stealth used some Chrysler technology but was mostly Mitsubishi - and was all Japanese. The Colt, Sapparo, FWD Challenger, and Ram 50 were re-badged Mitsubishis. 29. What are the K-cars? Herb DaSilva: ... Chrysler used the components on the Aries/Reliant (K) in many of its other platforms. These platforms... share similar distance between the wheels on the same axle, and have the same suspension design. Most K variants can swap struts (H is an exception). K derivates include: Laser (pre-88)/Daytona (G), Shadow/Sundance (P), LeBaron/New Yorker (J), LeBaron sedan (pre-90)/Lancer (H), Dynasty/New Yorker/Imperial (C), Acclaim/Spirit/LeBaron sedan (AA). Each derivative has a different wheelbase and floor pan. First-generation minivans are also loosely based on the K. These cars are collectively referred to as EEKs. There is a mailing list for them at http://www.eekcars.com/ 30. How do I find the fault codes stored in my engine computer? See Part 3 of this FAQ. 32. How often should I change my trans fluid? Check your service manual. The severe service definition means that the vehicle is operated *primarily* in one of those conditions. Mopar 3-speed automatic transmissions need to have oil and filter changed when the oil gets discolored due to suspended solids. ATF usually does not need to be changed unless contaminated. The trans oil can get contaminated by overheating or by severe internal wear due to abuse, especially towing. (Mostly from Robert Muir). 4-speed automatic transmissions should have their ATF changed every three years or so. It MUST be replaced with ATF+3, NOT Dexron. (Newer automatics require ATF+4). MODERN TRANSMISSIONS WILL BE DESTROYED IF YOU USE THE WRONG FLUID. See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html Even some 3-speed DC transmissions are NOT compatible with Dexron - read your manual !!! 34. What kind of gas should I use? Use the octane level your owner's manual recommends and the brand you have had good luck with. If your engine knocks adjust the timing. 35. No longer relevant; deleted. 36. What about lemons? To quote the rec.autos FAQ -- every auto manufacturer has manufactured a lemon or two; even Honda admits to this. Please don't waste everyone's time by announcing to the world that your `brand x' automobile is terrible, so all brand x automobiles are terrible, so no one should ever buy a car from the brand x company. Such articles are worse than useless, because they cause wasted bandwidth while carrying little or no useful information. 37. Are K&N filters worth it? David Cooley reported on a magazine test of aftermarket air filters. The paper filters were respectable, but the K&N and Accell filters flowed almost 3 times as much air when dirty as clean paper filters of the same size. The K&N passed less particulate matter than the paper filter; as it got dirtier outside, they sprayed on a new coat of oil (without cleaning) and found it filtered even better. K&N filters change your engine sound, rarely need replacement, and flow better when dirty. Other than that, you may not notice much difference unless you have a high-efficiency exhaust and performance engine. There has been debate over the actual filtering ability of these filters; the power boost on TBI cars is negligible. So. . .probably not. 38. Is there anything special I should do if I have ABS? Marv Miller suggests replacing the brake fluid every 2-4 years regardless of car make. Use only the brake fluid the car maker recommends!!! Fully depressurize the system before adding or changing brake fluids. Note - ABS is now far more reliable than it used to be. Indeed, the primary source of failure is dirt in the sensors, which can easily be cleaned. 39. What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Is Dexron OK? Use ONLY what it says in your owner's manual to use. Many Chrysler transmissions are NOT compatible with standard fluid! ATF+3 is usually the best one to use with automatic transmissions before 2001, ATF+4 after. THIS IS AN IMPORTANT and very misunderstood issue. You should really visit http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html if you have a four-speed or five-speed Chrysler automatic. Even most three-speed automatics are required to use ATF+4. 40. Are Chrysler transmissions still junk? Not if you use the right transmission fluid. By the way, the 545 is actually based on the old, reliable 727. See #39 and Part 2 of the FAQ. 41. Do I have one of those evil ABS systems I heard about? These had the Bendix ABS-10: (Thanks, G. Smith) 90-93 C body (Dynasty/New Yorker) 90-93 Y body (Imperial) 91-92 BB body (Premier/Monaco - Renault imports) 91-93 S body (Minivans - Caravan/Voyager) Chrysler extended the warranty to 100,000 miles At some point we have to remove this section... 42. Aren't Chryslers junk? / Has Mercedes improved Chrysler quality? Chrysler was working on quality before the takeover, yielding the PT Cruiser - which is beating the Honda Civic on quality surveys - and the Jeep Liberty, which is also doing very well. Chrysler has been making great strides in quality. Mercedes is, if anything, damaging those efforts by emphasizing an "expert" approach rather than a Toyota-style inclusive/participatory approach to quality. Look at Mercedes' quality reports, then at Chrysler's. Generally, Chrysler quality TROUNCES Mercedes. So how is Mercedes helping? 43. Engine sludge - what's the deal? Early 2.7 liter engines in some models had a more than normal occurence of oil degredation resulting in a thick substance called "sludge" which can cause major engine damage. This problem also afflected some Toyotas, Hondas, and other makes. If you have a 2.7 made before 2004, you may want to use synthetic oil (which can also lengthen your oil change intervals). The problem appears to be caused by a combination of engine design and engine bay design, with driving conditions thrown in; high heat in certain areas may be the cause. It's still pretty sketchy and in some cases over-hyped. But if it happens to you - it's serious! 86. All other questions. Check the computer codes. ******************* UP AND COMING ****************** This section has been replaced by http://www.allpar.com/news/ and http://www.allpar.com/model/upcoming.html *********************** AUTOMATIC TRANS FLUID ********************** The FAQ maintainer notes that many people have destroyed their transmissions by using the wrong fluid. Some people have had bad transmission problems go away when they changed the fluid. Follow Chrysler's recommendations. Ignore the alternative fluid (as in "if Mopar is unavailable, use..."). See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html for details. Note that this is also true of Toyotas (as per http://www.toyoland.com ) *********************** NEWSGROUP CHARTER *********** (This section never changes. The newsgroup was created around 1994.) - The Newsgroup Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler -- CHARTER COVERAGE. Rec.autos.makers.chrysler was set up to cover issues related to cars and trucks made by Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, Fargo, DeSoto, Jeep, Eagle, and all other makes sold or marketed by Chrysler Corp. BEHAVIOR. Political comments and commercial advertising will be discouraged. However, *short* product announcements, preferably restricted to the name, availability, and a very brief description of the product's function (where applicable) are acceptable. Discussion of whether Chrysler products are of good or bad quality, lengthy comparisons to Hondas or other cars, and similar arguments and flamewars with no foreseeable conclusion are heavily discouraged. Participants are asked to be kind, considerate, and supportive, and to generally keep an open, warm atmosphere so that the function of this newsgroup may be maintained. RATIONALE. This group is proposed to help Chrysler (CC) vehicle owners to support each other, save money, and maximize enjoyment of their autos. As in rec.autos.vw, Chrysler owners need a forum where they feel unreservedly welcomed, and where they can obtain esoteric information from involved people with similar experiences and vehicles. This newsgroup should be general enough for those who know little about cars to get a broad range of information and advise from, while allowing those more into the products to exchange their views and advice. In a world dominated by GM, Ford, and VW (Europe) products, Chrysler owners often find discussions difficult. Most aftermarket parts and advice are for GM and Ford owners; knowledge about Chrysler is hard to find. The press don't cover CC as well as they could -- and CC's dissemination of information to the press and the public is poor. Chrysler products have quirks which most mechanics don't seem to be aware of, leading them to replace transmissions when the fault is in a 20 cent vacuum hose, or to replace the engine computer instead of plugging in a hose or changing a sensor. Chryslers are often seen as ordinary American cars (unlike makes which many mechanics will admit they are not familiar with) -- but what will work on a GM or Ford will often not work on a Dodge. There is a vast ocean of experience in Chrysler products out on the Internet which may help owners to save time, money, and trouble. CC vehicles are common enough, yet idiosyncratic enough, to deserve their own place in the Net hierarchy -- just as Volkswagens are. In addition, it is important for CC vehicle owners to have a place to discuss the problems and benefits of ownership, to exchange detailed information and personal experiences, in a supportive and positive atmosphere. In short, I hope to develop a group as vibrant and helpful as the Mopar mailing list or the rec.autos.VW group have been, while making this group accessible to all Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Eagle, and Chrysler owners, even those who don't know what a Mopar is. *********************** IMPORTANT DC FOLK *********** Hard to keep up to date due to reshuffles. Write to: DaimlerChrysler, 1000 Chrysler Drive, Auburn Hills, MI 48326-2766 Your letter will go to customer service pretty much regardless of who you write to anyway. FAQ maintained by David Zatz who works at http://www.toolpack.com/ and may sometimes be seen at http://www.ptcruizer.com/ (end of FAQ part 1) |
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Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part2
Posting-Frequency: 15 days Last-modified: 2005/7/21 Version: 4.6 This section is generally revised every 300 days. SERIOUS updates to the body code list, July 2005. IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to . Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE. Instead, reply to faq2 at that allpar /dot/ com address. Thank you. - - - - - - - - - - - - DISCLAIMER: While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact. The writers and the maintainer do not claim to be authorities. information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is given to the writers and maintainer; and that it is not published in book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer (David Zatz of allpar.com). - - - - - - - - - - - - If you did not obtain this FAQ from one of its newsgroups or from the rtfm.mit.edu archives, it is probably NOT current. The latest copy may be obtained from http://www.allpar.com/faq.html - - - - - - - - - - - - PART II *************************CONTENTS***************** ************ What should I do... 1. ... before I post? 2. ... (removed) 3. ... if I have problems with Chrysler? 4. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for) Oil Filter Discussion List of All Engines Since 1966 1. Guide to V-8s 2. New transmission designations decoded (new!) List of All Body Styles Since 1966 ************************************************** ********************* BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS 1. Check the FAQ. Most answers are there. 2. Please don't post messages like "this broke and I will speak to the dealer about it sometime." Go to the dealer first; if they cannot fix it, and it is not in the FAQ, THEN go to the newsgroup. 3. If you are having problems with Chrysler, and have not yet read the relevant FAQ section, please do so. At least call them (800-992-1997). 4. If you are having problems with Chrysler and are angry and bitter at them, an angry message or two is fine. But you won't help anyone by going overboard. ************************************************** ********************* HOW TO DEAL WITH CHRYSLER CORP. ************************************************** ********************* (Note: Thanks to Dan Adams for his help with parts of this - Chrysler Corp should be grateful to have him!) * The order in which you should deal with a problem is something like this: 1. Speak politely but assertively with the service writer. 2. Ask to go for a ride with the mechanic and discuss relevant issues wuth them. 3. Service manager. 4. 800 992 1997. 5. Zone (voluntary buyback negotiations IF APPLICABLE) 6. Arbitration / Consumer Affairs / Attorney General if applicable AND needed. * Be *polite* and *calm* but assertive at all times. Do not take "no" for an answer but do *not* act angry or make threats. Chrysler often helps, even out of warranty, but they need to be gently pushed; they are generally defensive; and what they know about customers and customer service would fit into a microscope slide. The Customer Center reps also often don't know what they're talking about, so elaboration may help. If all else fails, call back and speak to someone else. Always take down their name for your reference! * Know what you're talking about. Check the FAQ, TSBs, your computer codes, and recalls before you visit the dealer with a problem. * Don't expect Chrysler to change something because it's listed in a TSB (technical service bulletin). TSBs describe solutions to problems which may not apply to your car; they are *not* recalls, though Chrysler often fixes cars out of warranty if there is a known problem and TSB on it. (Daniel Adams notes that Chrysler sometimes extends transmission warranties to 100,000 miles; there are extended warranties on some a/c parts and ABS systems). * Even if you are in an adversarial relationship, act in a friendly, nonthreatening, non-adversarial manner. It works better and makes both parties less angry. * Daniel Adams writes: Chrysler corparte headquarters does tend to back the field reps but a good service writer can get to them and help you more than you would believe. Don't take your frustration out on the service writers, they carry quite a bit of pull behind the scenes * Don't take "no" for an answer. Call Chrysler at 800-992-1997 from a pay phone if you have to. They will call the dealer. Often, the dealer will discover they don't need to charge you or keep your car after all! * If your dealer keeps fixing the same thing over and over again, get another dealer. Or try the newsgroup. * If your dealer treats you badly, lies to you, refuses to do the work, etc., get another dealer. * If you have a continuing problem, speak to the people at the Customer Center. You may need to deal with a zone rep, the final word at Chrysler. Others can overrule them but THEY WILL NOT. Some reps are good. Others are useless. There have been many reports that the reps in some areas are exceedingly sensitive and need to be handled with kid gloves. (See message about service writers above -- they can often get action where ordinary mortals cannot). * Note: if, as Continental Auto Body (of Wyckoff, New Jersey) did to my car, your dealer should get your car into an accident, immediatly retain a lawyer and find out what your options are. Examine the damage personally before they have a chance to cover it up and lie about it. ****** NON-CHRYSLER SOLUTIONS ****** (after internal solutions fail) courtesy of http://www.acarplace.com/ * Contact your local consumer affairs department. Note: May not work in states with a predominantly anti-government/libertarian attitude. 1. File an official lemon law complaint with your state. This will get their attention and help negotiation. You can usually get a better deal through negotiation than in court. Hiring a lemon law specialist may help - good ones will offer to negotiate *first.* Chrysler has a reputation for being easy! 2. Go through the Customer Arbitration Board. Results with this group have been mixed. * Most lawyers don't know the first thing about lemon law! A good one will know the people at the zone office and will try to talk nice to them to solve the problem. If negotiation is not their first move, they are not the right lawyer. * Your chances of getting cash are slim. You will probably get a credit (buy-back). You will usually not get all of your money back. Chrysler tends to follow state laws; most impose a penalty on each mile of use before the first lemon-type complaint. This is normal and OK. * Go through the latest TSBs again. Something new might have come up. *Whenever your dealer lies to you or is too incompetent, send a letter to Dealer Agreements or the Customer Center, Box 302, Centerline, MI 48015. It may not help you but it might help someone else! (Actually, it may not help anyone else, either). * If in a dispute with a five-star dealer, feel free to return your customer satisfaction survey with very negative ratings. Dan Adams assures us that these surveys are taken very seriously. Be aware that all surveys are also given to the dealers - not just in aggregate form, but the individual surveys - so be careful what you say, don't go overboard. For more details on what happens to your surveys, see http://www.allpar.com/fix/surveys.html. * If you get into a dispute with an auto body shop, check your state's laws to see what regulations and rules might be applicable. ************************************************** ********************** WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I HAVE THE FOLLOWING CAR/ENGINE? Note: you are strongly advised to also visit the Troubleshooting section (part 4). If a problem is noted, with no solution, the solution is listed in the Troubleshooting section. ENGINES 2.2/2.5 turbo: -- check for fuel leaks and loose fuel line connections -- head gasket failure (possibly due to heavy use) Any 2.2 or 2.5 liter engine: -- oil leaks from the valve cover gasket and oil pan. -- oil seeping into airbox or air hose -- poor idle from any number of causes (see part 5) Any Mitsubishi engine -- high oil consumption -- replace the timing belts on time! Carbureted V-8/slant six engines -- replace the crankcase inlet air filter regularly. -- keep a spare ballast resistor in your glove compartment -- make sure the stove and damper (vacuum-powered valve) are working Any engine without DIS (if you have a rotor, this applies to you) --- -- Check your timing, it may have been set wrong at the factory. -- Other problems may be caused by low quality rotor or different brand rotor and distributor cap. (Standard-Bluestreak was recommended by Dan Stern. There have been malformed Mopar 2.2/2.5 caps). 2.7 V6: use synthetic oil to avoid sludge TRANSMISSIONS 4-speed automatic -- 1989-94: watch for early failure and press Chrysler to pay for repairs. -- all: Change fluid regularly with *recommended* fluid. See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html -- KNOW the right fluid (owner's manual ONLY). Do NOT trust mechanics. The right fluid for 1988-1998 transmissions is usually Type 7176. The right fluid for 1999 and up models is usually ATF+4. See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html -- DO NOT use non-recommended fluid or ANY additives. -- Check for TSBs and have the computer replaced if needed. If a dealer doesn't feel/hear it, find another. Persist until they follow the TSB. The new computer save wear and tear on the transmission for various reasons. (Note: 1996+ transmissions have software-upgradable computers) -- MOST problems are due to MAINTENANCE ISSUES. Do the maintenance with EXACTLY the fluids and parts recommended! -- Chrysler has informally extended some transmission warranties due to earlier problems. -- AGAIN, DO NOT USE DEXRON! Do not trust any mechanic! ASK! -- If you have a problem, check the allpar forums and try getting second opinions. Mechanics, including dealership mechanics, are quick to demand that you replace or rebuilt these things even when the problems are minor! Even honest mechanics are jaded by past breakdowns... 5-speed manual transmission, pre-1994 (non-MMC): -- Seepage from the transaxle is common. BRAKES ABS -- On Chrysler products, the trouble-prone ABS-10 was on minivans, New Yorker, Fifth Avenue, Imperial, Eagle Premier, Dodge Dynasty, and Dodge Monaco. *** There has been a RECALL on these systems and the warranty on them has been extended to 100,000 miles, according to reports. -- You may be able to prevent problems with ABS systems by changing the brake fluid every 2-4 years. -- Often, the ABS light goes on due to dirt in the sensors. Try to troubleshoot it yourself using the engine-code method. http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html CARS Neon -- see the Neon FAQ. -- whining noise from the computer for 3-4 minutes after the engine is shut, periodically, is normal. -- engine light comes on: see Computer Codes, part 3. -- bad head gaskets: fixed with mid-1997 upgrade. -- Other Neon issues - see http://www.allpar.com/neon/neon.html PAINT COLORS Metallic paints are more prone to problems. Blue seems to be more prone to problems. Red is known for fading and peeling. Paint seems to have improved markedly since the 1990s. Note: this applies to all brands of cars and trucks. ******************* CONSUMER REPORTS DISCUSSIONS ******************* Transferred to Web site, http://www.allpar.com/cr.html ************************************************** ********* From Lloyd Parker, updated since then: **** Engines used in Chryslers since 1966: * denotes an engine still in production for Chrysler vehicles 4 cylinders 1.4 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ 1.4 (CC/Rover) - BMW Mini 1.5 (Sunbeam) -- Cricket (British) 1.5 (MMC) -- Colt, Summit 1.6 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ, Challenger, Sapporo, Arrow 1.6 (Peugeot) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo 1.6 turbo (MMC) -- Colt 1.6 DOHC (MMC) -- Colt, Summit 1.6 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Colt 1.6 (CC/Rover) - Mini and export Neons 1.7 (VW) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo 1.8 (MMC) -- Colt, Vista, Summit, Laser, Talon 1.8 (CC)* -- Neons outside the US 1.8 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+) 2.0 (MMC) -- Arrow, Vista 2.0 DOHC (MMC) -- Laser, Talon 2.0 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Laser, Talon 2.0 SOHC * -- Neon 2.0 DOHC * -- Neon, Sebring, Avenger, Talon, Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze 2.0 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+) 2.2 -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo, Aries, Lancer, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, 400, 600, Caravelle, Caravan, Voyager, LeBaron, Laser, Daytona, New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine (note: TBI and carb versions) 2.2 turbo -- LeBaron, New Yorker, Limousine, Laser, Daytona, Lancer, TC, 600, Shadow, Caravelle, Sundance, Omni, Charger, E-Class, Shelby (note: MPI) 2.2 DOHC turbo -- Spirit, Daytona (joint venture with Lotus) 2.2 DOHC turbo -- TC (joint venture with Maserati) 2.2 (Renault) -- Medallion 2.4 (MMC) -- Vista, Summit 2.4* DOHC (CC) -- Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze, 1996+ minivans, PT 2.4 Turbo (CC) - PT GT, SRT-4, Mexican Stratus R/T 2.4 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+) 2.5 (CC) -- minivans, Aries, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, Duster, 600, Lancer, Dynasty, Daytona, Spirit, Acclaim, LeBaron, Caravelle, Dakota (to 1995) - no carb versions 2.5 turbo (CC) -- minivans, Spirit, Acclaim, Shadow, Sundance, LeBaron, Daytona (Note: MPI) 2.5 (AMC) -- Wrangler, Cherokee, Premier, Dakota (96+) 2.6 (MMC) -- New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine, LeBaron, 400, 600, Aries, Reliant, Caravan, Voyager 2.6 turbo (MMC) -- Conquest (MMC) [Coming up - Hyundai engine tweaked by Mitsubishi and Chrysler for use in all three lines] 2.5 is 2.2 with balance shafts, minor changes. 2.0 (CC) is 2.2 with different heads, fuel system, some tweaks. 3.9 V-6 (below) based on 318. 2.4 is 2.0 with balance shafts, other minor changes. Chrysler families: 2.2/2.5, 2.0/2.4 ---------------------------------- V-6: 2.5* (MMC) -- Sebring, Avenger, Cirrus, Stratus (based on 3.0) 2.7* LH series (1998-2001), Stratus/Sebring 3.0 (MMC) -- LeBaron, TC, minivans, New Yorker, Spirit, Dynasty, Daytona, Stealth, Shadow ES, Acclaim, Duster 3.0 (Renault) -- Premier, Monaco 3.2 LH series (1998+) 3.3* New Yorker, Dynasty, LH series, minivans 3.5* LH series (1998+), Prowler (steel and aluminum versions) - Chrysler considers the aluminum version to be entirely new 3.7* V-6 for trucks (2002+) 3.8* New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Imperial, minivans - bored 3.3 3.9 trucks (3.9 is based on the 318) 4.0 - rumored enlarged/rodded version of the 3.8 Chrysler-made V6 families are 2.7/3.2, 3.3/3.5/3.8, 3.9/318 MMC 2.5 and 3.0 are related ---------------------------------- The SLANT SIX (share basic design) 2.8 (170) -- Dart, Valiant, Lancer, Barracuda (Canada), A100, D100 3.3 (198) -- Barracuda, Challenger, Dart, Valiant, Duster, Scamp 3.7 (225)-- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Mirada, Diplomat, St. Regis, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Barracuda, Valiant, Duster, Scamp, Volare, Lancer ---------------------------------- STRAIGHT SIXES (flat head) - various sizes - ended in late 1950s for cars 215 - Australian Valiants 245 - Australian Valiants 265 - Australian Valiants 4.0* (AMC) -- Cherokee, Wagoneer, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee 4.2 (AMC) -- Wrangler Families: 215/245/265, 4.0/4.2, flat heads The Australian straight sixes was built on a basic design intended for use in American trucks. They changed from the slant six to Australian-built 215, 245, and 265 sixes in 1970. The Aussie models had hemispherical heads, so the 3-2barrel Weber version could honestly be called a Hemi Six-Pack. ---------------------------------- V-8s 4.5 (273) -- Dart, Valiant, Barracuda, Coronet, Belvedere, Satellite 4.7* -- 1999 Grand Cherokee, Charger R/T (CNG), next-gen Rams 5.2 (318) -- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, St. Regis, Magnum, Mirada, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, VIP, Belvedere, Satellite, Road Runner, Barracuda, Valiant, Scamp, Duster, Volare, Cordoba, LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, Gran Fury, Imperial, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, Diplomat, Demon, pickups and SUVs thru 2001. 5.6 (340) -- Charger, Challenger, Dart, Barracuda, Duster, Road Runner, Ramcharger 5.7 Hemi (345) -- Ram trucks, LX cars, Grand Cherokee, Durango (2002+) 5.9 (360) -- LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, 300, Cordoba, Diplomat, Polara, Monaco, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Gran Fury, Barracuda, Duster, St. Regis, pickups and SUVs thru 2002. (345) -- Hemi Magnum engine for trucks, next-gen large cars 5.9 (361) -- Coronet, Charger, Belvedere 5.9 (360-AMC) -- Grand Wagoneer 6.1 Hemi - SRT8 models 6.3 (383)-- Newport, 300, Town & Country, Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Dart, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Road Runner, Barracuda, Magnum 6.6 (400) -- Newport, New Yorker, Town & Country, Monaco, Fury, Road Runner, Gran Fury, Charger, maybe Cordoba, Magnum 7.0 (426, Hemi & Wedge) -- Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda, Challenger, Charger, Coronet, Daytona, Superbird 7.2 (440) -- Newport, New Yorker, 300, Town & Country, Imperial, Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Fury, VIP, Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda, Daytona, Superbird ---------------------------------- 8.0 V-10* -- Viper, Ram trucks (two versions, fairly different) Truck version (cast iron) ended in 2002. Aluminum continues. ---------------------------------- Gary Howell clarifies: ** Small blocks (except new 4.7) ** 273/318/340/360 are LA engines they look the same from the outside. LA stands for "Lightweight-casting A" [There is now an A/LA page at http://www.allpar.com/mopar/318.html] 273 cu. in. 1964-69 3.31 stroke and 3.63 bore 318 cu. in. 1968-91 3.31 stroke and 3.91 bore 340 cu. in. 1968-73 3.31 stroke and 4.04 bore 360 cu. in. 1971-91 3.58 stroke and 4.00 bore The A engines (not LA) are older small blocks and look the same on the outside to each other. The blocks are different in deck height, but share some internal components with the LA block. The cylinder heads and intake are different. 277 cu. in. 1956 3.75 bore and 3.12 stroke 301 cu. in. 1957 3.91 bore and 3.12 stroke 318 cu. in. 1957-67 3.91 bore and 3.31 stroke The Magnum 318 and 360 engines are LA engines with different cylnder heads. The blocks are physically the same as the earier LA engines, except the oil passage for the shaft mounted rockers is not drilled, because the Magnum engines oil through the push rods. The boss is there if you need to use the old style heads. ** Big Blocks ** There are eight different big blocks. The B blocks are short deck and the RBs are tall deck. The RBs require a wider intake manifold. [RB engine page: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/383.html] B: 350, 361, 383, 400 RB: 383, 413, 426 Wedge (not Hemi), 440 All B engine use 3.38 stroke crank with different bores, and all RB engines use 3.75 stroke crank with different bores. You'll notice that the 383 is listed in two differnent places. There were two different 383s; the RB is very rare, only produced 64. The 350 was only produced in 1958. ************************************************** ********* NEW TRANSMISSION DESIGNATIONS (Courtesy Daniel Adams >) On the new transmissions (e.g. 41TE): 4 amount of forward gears (from 3 to 6 at this point!) 1 the torque rating for the trans (on a 1-8 scale 1 lowest 8 strongest) T or R transaxle or rear wheel drive e or h electronic or hydraulic There are two five-speed automatics: a Chrysler-designed unit based on the 727, and a Mercedes-designed unit (currently used in the LX cars and the V6 Grand Cherokee). Expect to see a six-speed automatic similar in basic design to the current four-speed car automatics. Truck automatics are generally 727-based (unlike minivan autos.) Transmission list with details on many types of transmission: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions.html ************************************************** ********* CAR BODY TYPES Because the list of car body types was getting rather confusing - there are far too many models that jumped from one platform to another - we have taken this out of the FAQ and refer you instead to full, informative lists of cars by body type at: http://www.allpar.com/model/rwdbodies.html (rear drive and trucks/Jeeps) http://www.allpar.com/model/fwdbodies.html (front drive). For an example of the difficulty, the early Barracuda was a modified Valiant, hence an A-body; later it moved to a platform shared only with the Challenger (E-body). The New Yorker was a K-car, C-body, and several more...in one year sharing two different bodies (not unlike the Stratus whose sedan and coupe versions were built on totally different platforms, made by two different companies, in the same years!). The Fury moved from C to B body in the late 1970s. There are many others... cars were resized, transformed, dropped, and brought back with the same names. |
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Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part3
Posting-Frequency: 15 days Last-modified: 2004/4/13 Version: 4.5 Modifications and detailed fixes are at the web site - http://www.allpar.com/ IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to . Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE. Instead, reply to faq2 at that allpar /dot/ com address. Thank you. - - - - - - - - - - - - See the very last part of this section for reading ESA computer codes without a scan tool! Useful for those without the key-turn-watch-light feature (e.g. 1985 Caravans) -- and those with it! Note that engine codes have been updated since this list was created. See http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html for an updated list. Contents: 1. Engine Codes 2. [Outdated and removed] 3. Classic Car Troubleshooting 4. Reading codes without a scan tool (computer controlled, carbureted engines) 5. Crankcase inlet air filter, 2.2/2.5 engines. DISCLAIMER: While effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information. The information may be reproduced IF credit is given to the writers and the maintainer; and that it is not published without the prior written permission of the maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a free copy of the final material; and that no changes are made without the express permission of the maintainer (David Zatz who is at http://www.allpar.com/). - - - - - - - - - - - - The latest copy may be obtained from http://www.allpar.com/faq.html - - - - - - - - - - - - FAQ for rec.autos.makers.Chrysler - Part III ************************************************** ****** COMPUTER CODES THESE ONLY WORK IF YOU HAVE FUEL INJECTION. Otherwise, see the web site or the "troubleshooting electronic feedback carburetors" section. Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. (On is *not* start!) The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH <pause> FLASH FLASH FLASH <loong pause> It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses! 55 is end of codes, 33 is normal if you don't have air conditioning. When the computer indicates major failure, it will activate Limp In mode, which guesses about data to compensate for sensor failure. *** NOTE - NEWER VEHICLES *** See http://www.ptcruizer.com/computer-codes.html for a new, revised list of computer codes and instructions on how to get them. These codes appear to have been phased in starting in around 1998. *** Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this is not a complete listing. (From Herb with additions by Charles Hobbs. Basis: Mopar Mailing List info.) * Activates Power Limited/Check Engine light. 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected - Fraser Shortt said code 12 appeared with some other codes in 1989 and possibly later computers as well. 13* MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working 14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V NOTE - on early Neons, a computer error may light the Check Engine light and show one or more of these codes. If this happens, bring it in so the dealer can reprogram the computer (about ten minutes). 15 No speed/distance sensor signal 16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running 17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit 17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?) 21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V) Probably bad oxygen sensor 22* Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing 23* Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad 24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V (SEE NOTE #3) 25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found 26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors) (SEE NOTE #4 BELOW) 27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI) OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding - check computer, connections 31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver 32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit 32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve 32 (1990-92, all but Turbo) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit) 34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open 34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open 35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted 35 (trucks) idle switch motor fault - check connections 36 (turbo) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted 36 (3.9/5.2 RWD) solenoid coil circuit (air switching) 36 (Turbo IV) #3 Vent Solenoid open/short 37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed OR part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89) OR solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV) OR Trans temparature sensor voltage low (1995 and on; see NOTE 2) 41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted 42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted 42 Fuel pump relay control circuit 42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles OR 42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (SEE NOTE #6) 43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time OR 43 Cylinder misfire OR 43 Problem in power module to logic module interface 44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board OR 44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem OR 44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!) 45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module) 46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low 47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low 51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (lean condition) OR 51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) 52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position (SEE NOTE #5!) OR 52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) 53 Logic module internal problem 54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only) OR 54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) 55 End of codes 61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted 62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM 62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored 63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM 64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure 65 Power steering switch failure 88 Start of test (not given on most computers) NOTE #1. The power module has an air-cooled resistor which senses incoming air temperature. The logic modules uses this information to control the field current in the alternator. This code applies ONLY to alternators whose voltage is computer regulated. If you lose the feed to keep RAM information stored when the engine's off, you also lose battery voltage sensing. -- Bohdan Bodnar NOTE #2 From the 1995 TRUCK manuals: the trailer towing package includes a transmission coolant temp sensor while the standard package doesn't. This may cause the low (no) voltage indication. -- J.E. Winburn NOTE #3 Matt Rowe comments: The throttle postion circuit tells the computer how far the accelerator is depressed. The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is on the throttle body on the opposite side of the throttle cable. The connector should have a round rubber cover over the connections. Clear the fault codes, start the car and try jiggling the wires/connectors to try to trip a fault code. Loss of this signal could cause other problems. NOTE #4 During cranking, the computer will test the current through the injector to see whether there's too much resistance in the injector's path. If there is, code 26 is set. The problem may be cured with tuner cleaner on the connectors. For TBI engines, the injector's cold resistance should be between 0.9 and 1.2 ohms (specs vary with year). This is a peak-and-hold injector. With the engine idling the peak period should be about 1.2 milliseconds whereas the hold period will vary. If it's lower than this at idle, then the injector's shorted or there's a defect in the injector driver circuit. (Bohdan Bodnar) NOTE #5 Wade Goldman wrote: In my case, the breather tube leading into the catalytic converter had rusted and become detached. This some how would cause the sensor to read an over rich condition and run crummy. I did not trust the reliability of the weld over a corroded surface and opted for the more expensive route of replacing the converter, breather tube and all. NOTE #6 The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the ignition coil(s). In my Le Baron, the Z1 circuit leaves the power module and splits into two paths: the fuel pump and the positive side of the ignition coil. Internal to the power module is the auto shutdown relay (in my case, it's a sealed box about 1" by 1"). The output voltage is monitored to determine whether the relay responds correctly. I suspect that the ASD relay (and, therefore, the Z1 circuit) also feeds the fuel injector(s) driver(s) and current sensing circuit, but can't prove this. I've used the Z1 voltage to test for good power connections to the power module. I connected my OTC 500 multimeter from the battery's positive post to the ignition coil's switched battery terminal and measured the voltage drop using the bar graph to monitor peak voltages. Voltage spikes of around 200 mV to 300 mV are ok -- anything more means tv tuner cleaner time (or replacing the power module). Another thing to check is the maximum voltage drop during the priming pulse. With the old power module, I was losing about 2 volts across the circuit; the replacement is losing about 1/4 volt. (Thanks, Bohdan Bodnar) **************** CLASSIC CAR TROUBLESHOOTING **************** (1950s-some 80s) FOR MORE, VISIT http://www.allpar.com/fix/vintage.html Many of these were taken from the A-Bodies site at http://www.valiant.org/ C1. Won't start (<Dave>): Check the ballast resistor. It's a little white block attached to the metal between the engine and the driver, with a single bolt; wires plug into each side. It's easy to replace and under $5. If the starter makes a rapid clicking noise, your battery may be worn, even if you can see your headlights. If the engine was wet, dry it, separate the wires, and try again, Use silicone spray or "wire drier" or, better yet, replace your wires with really good ones ($25-40 mail order). These will probably improve your gas mileage and power as well. Dan Stern adds: Whitaker's Multi-Mag comes in the same colors and insulation materials as original, but uses the spiral-wound construction that you find in wires such as Accel and Jacobs. Lower resistance, but no irritating radio noise. They have a lifetime guarantee and don't cost more than regular carbon-string type wires. The Slant-6 wire set (32605 for pre-75) has the correct 1-piece moulded plug boots. They are also sold under the Borg Warner/BWD KoolWire name. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C2. Anything from pollution to loss of power (<Dave>) This may be caused by leaking vacuum hoses or mechanics disconnecting your vacuum hoses. If you like to breathe, and you want your car to perform well, replace all of the vacuum hose -- it costs maybe 10 cents per foot. Just get a few yards and do it one day (warning: you may need different kinds or sizes. You may need to take bits of the old stuff into the shop). Make sure hoses are not kinked. Vacuum leaks caused by leaking hoses that look okay to the naked eye may result in the following diagnoses by mechanics: * Need new carburetor * Need new transmission * Need new engine * Need valve job * Need new mechanic. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C3. Stalling (<Dave>) See the above section on vacuum hoses. Turning the cold or warm idle screw on the carburetor is a quick fix that doesn't solve the real problem. If the car stalls when cold, lubricate the choke well. If it stalls when wet, try getting much better ignition wires (lifetime warranty, good brand, about $30). Also try: * Put window insulating tape (foam) over the top of the electronic ignition module * Spray the little wires with silicone spray or wire drier * Check for vacuum leaks (see above). ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C4. Windshield wipers won't work (): Put window insulating tape (foam) over the top of the wiper motor. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C5. Water leaks into the car: A problem on many A-bodies (Valiant/Dart group). May be solved by keeping the cowl (that grille between the hood and windshield) free of leaves and gunk, and by straightening out and emptying out the air conditioner condensation drain. The black tube that carries a/c water may be seen on the firewall (the metal between the engine and the driver). It is small and behind other stuff. Sometimes the end of this black tube freezes to itself and must be opened with a knife or razor. See http://www.allpar.com/a/water.html ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C6. runs rough cold, seems to improve with heat George Young suggests: 1) Not enough voltage from old damp coil? - new coil. 2) EGR valve plunger binding open? - remove and plug manifold vacuum hose to EGR circuit. Dave adds: Better wires, high quality rotor/distributor cap for best fit. Check the stove, that big metal thing on many engines that feeds warm air from the engine to the air intake through a usually-rotten or missing hose. The vacuum-operated flap may also not be functioning for one reason or another, usually a bad vacuum hose. This is common. Dan Stern notes the flap is controlled by the Thermostatic Air Cleaner vacuum motor... George Young adds: My old 318 ran rough when cold and wet, would stall out until warm. Choke was the problem. Manifold carboned up and wouldn't pass heat to choke coil thermostat. Changed to manual choke and no more problem and increased gas mileage Dan Stern noted that driveability problems could be caused by a bad choke heater control unit, which may short out and shunt full power to the electric choke, causing it to heat up prematurely. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C7. Lean-Burn (computer-controlled carbureted engine) rough idle 1). Are your coolant temperature sensor connection ok? If not, the computer will see a cold engine and will run rich. 2). Are the oxygen sensor connections ok? 3). Is the heated air inlet operating correctly? 4). Vacuum leaks? Check all vacuum hoses with a religious fervor! The leak's location many not even be obvious! 5). Carburetor problems: float low? valve seat damage? I doubt the latter since it appears that the problem arose quite suddenly. The following is something I've used on computer-controlled carbureted engines many times: 1). Connect a high impedance dwell meter to the mixture control solenoid, set the meter to the 6 cylinders scale, run the engine around 2000 rpm until hot and see the dwell. If the a/f mixture's ok, you'll see the dwell oscillating about 30 degrees. Low dwell with oscillations => a/f mixture lean and running closed loop. High dwell with oscillations => a/f mixture rich and running closed loop. Dwell at or below 10 degrees => system stuck lean. Dwell at or above 50 degrees => system stuck rich. The latter two extremes indicate closed loop operation since open loop operation typical will show a stable dwell reading between 20 and 30 degrees (usually, closer to 20). Do not do this test at idle since some engines will be operated in open loop at idle REGARDLESS of the coolant temperature sensor's output. Incidently, I've just outlined the procedure for GM's "System Performance Test" which is used on GM C3 carbureted engines. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C8. Gas gauge acts funny: See #34. (part 4) ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C9. Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow -- see #39 (part 4) ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C10. Slant Six problems Cold driveability problems tend to stem from poorly adjusted choke and choke pulloff, bad accelerator pump, and sloppy carb rebuilds (Carter BBS one barrel is better than Holley 1920.) Other big driveability problem source is the fact that the vibration damper outer ring tends to slip, which makes the timing mark WAY OFF. Which means timing would never be accurately set. Also check for timing chain stretch. Check by putting the engine at #1 TDC - top of compression stroke (both valves closed) and see where the timing mark is. There are companies that re-bond dampers with new silicone material. I think one is called Damper Dudes, out of California. I don't know if this happens on other CC engines. Basically, if your damper has an inner hub and an outer ring sandwiching rubber bonding material, this can happen. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C11. 318 V8 troubleshooting Bruce Martin wrote: One very common fault with the otherwise wonderful 318 is that the exhaust crossover in the intake manifold (which warms the base of the carb) becomes clogged. This is common so it should be among the first things you check. (This problem was addressed on the Magnum engines) CURT PINCK wrote: It is interesting the wide variety of timing specs given for the 318, all the way from 2 degrees ATDC to 16 degrees ATDC, depending on the type of engine and vehicle...Most books recommend not to try to time by ear, even if you have experience doing this. Ted Devey adds two more steps: 1. examine the reluctor teeth in the distributor for possible damage, nicks etc. which can happen if the gap gets too small. If there is damage to the teeth, replace the reluctor. 2. Several years ago I dismantled the Carter 2-barrel carburettor and reassembled it with the jet assembly upside down. There is no obvious wrong way. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C13. Seat belt looseness During the late 70's up through the late 80's all American cars had something called a window shade mechanism to allow for a small amount of slack to build-up in the shoulder belt. This was to prevent people from complaining that their belts were too tight. I experienced (ref:June '87 Car and Driver article by Patrick Bedard) a problem where the seatbelt built up too much slack. Sometimes the belts, like a windowshade, would never return at all. There is usually a large plastic button on the 'B' pillar that needs to be fooled into thinking the door is always opened, which by the way disables the window shade mechanism and is how the belts return 'home' when you get out of the car. Cut the plastic button very close to the 'B' pillar, being careful not to cut into the inner spring Take a cotter pin and put it through the loops of the spring, this prevents the spring from ever retracting. Chrylser mini-vans are easier in that they have a rotating plastic cam with a striker pin that is engaged by the closing door. Just cut the striker pin and you eliminate the problem. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C14. Low front end Many late 60's and early 70's A-body Chrysler products had a problem with the rear mount for the torsion bar. Water collects in the channel and rust occurs. After a decade or so the channel that the mount is welded into rusts through and the mount twists and that side of the car falls onto the rebounce (sp?) bumper. If this is what happened you will need to find a local frame/suspension/alignment shop that has someone who has welded in new material to replace the rusted stuff and then realign the ride height when done. (Thanks, Chris Jardine). ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C15. Pinging on V-8s Pete O Dickerson wrote: My 75 Dodge Swinger 318 would ping at part throttle operation, not at full throttle (floored!) like you might expect. Just going over an overpass or up a hill the engine would ping and clatter, even though the ignition timing and carburetor were set correctly. The manifold was made from cast metal. The molten metal was poured into a mold through a little hole and when the manifold was finished, the little hole was plugged up with a little rubber plug. Well, after a few years this little plug would dry up, shrink, and fall out, leaving a hole in the manifold. This hole would cause a lean condition to exist at part throttle operation, by letting air leak in. Try removing the carb and shining a flashlight down into the manifold and seeing if there is a hole in the bottom of the manifold. You can either plug it up or replace the manifold with a more performance oriented unit. (The maintainer adds: invest in a vacuum gauge, they are cheap!) ----------------------------------------------------------------------- C16: Fast idle, then stalling. >From Timothy Economou: If you start your car and it runs for a while at fast idle and then it starts to load up and then stalls. There is this little round thing on the open end of your breather that closes the outside air when your car is at fast idle and lets it draw air from the manifold. (Stove control). Check it. Editor's note: the stove control is frequently bad on vintage vehicles. The vacuum hose, control, and mechanics of the flap in the air horn should be checked. See above. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ========================= DIAGNOSING PROBLEMS IN COMPUTER CONTROLLED CARBURETED ENGINES From: Bohdan L Bodnar This is the procedure I've used to diagnose air/fuel mixture problems in computer controlled carbureted engines; the procedure can also be used to set the idle air/fuel mixture without exhaust gas analysis. The procedure is based on the General Motors System Performance Test. THEORY The a/f mixture is controlled by a MIXTURE CONTROL SOLENOID (MC solenoid). This is a valve which operates at a fixed frequency (typically, 10 Hz) and whose duty cycle (valve's ON time divided by period) is varied. That is, the valve is pulse width modulated. When the valve is turned on, the incoming a/f mixture is fully leaned; when off, fully enrichened. The former is called a "lean command" whereas the latter is called a "rich command." By varying the duty cycle of the MC solenoid, the AVERAGE a/f mixture can be varied. In GM products, this valve directly varies the incoming fuel and air flow. In Chryslers, only the incoming fuel flow is directly varied. The valve has a two wires electrical connector. On wire is connected to switched battery voltage whereas the other is connected to a power transistor in the computer and is a source of switched ground. During closed-loop operation the following will occur (assume the oxygen sensor is sensing a lean condition -- its voltage will be low): 1). The computer gradually decreases the MC solenoid's duty cycle. 2). The exhaust eventually becomes rich enough that the oxygen sensor's output will swing high (about 1 volt). 3). The computer gradually increases the MC solenoid's duty cycle. 4). The exhaust eventually becomes lean enough that the oxygen sensor's output will swing low (about 0 volt). The cycle now repeats. A device for monitoring the solenoid's duty cycle (such as a dwell meter) will show a constantly varying duty cycle. The frequency of the oscillations will depend on the how fast the computer varies the duty cycle and the engine's RPM. An AVERAGE duty cycle of 50% corresponds to, on the average, NO average a/f correction. Stated differently, everything is operating correctly. An average duty cycle of LESS THAN 50% corresponds to, on the average, a rich command (the computer is compensating for a lean condition). An average duty cycle GREATER THAN 50% corresponds to, on the average, a lean command. DIAGNOSIS AND SETTING IDLE A/F MIXTURE Monitoring the MC solenoid's average duty requires (for most people) the use of high impedance dwell meter. A low impedance dwell meter may be used unless it affects engine operation; stay away from self-powered dwell meters. Following the GM procedure, set the dwell meter to the six cylinders scale REGARDLESS of the number of cylinders in the engine. At this setting, 30 degrees will correspond to a 50% duty cycle, 60 to a 100% duty cycle, and 0 to a 0% duty cycle. Run the engine until closed loop operation is present; this will be indicated by a varying dwell (see footnote 1 for deviations from this procedure). Once the engine is hot, not the average dwell -- the reading should vary equally above 30 degrees and equally below 30 degrees. The following is a brief trouble listing: 1). DWELL NOT VARYING: system is operating in open loop. 2). DWELL STUCK AT 10 DEGREES OR LOWER: full rich command is present; the computer is compensating for WHAT APPEARS TO BE a massive fuel flow reduction (check for dirt in carburetor, air injection system stuck in upstream position, vacuum leaks, improper a/f mixture setting...). 3). DWELL STUCK AT 50 DEGREES OR UP: full lean command is present (check for float stuck low, valve seat damage, oxygen sensor's sense lead shorted to battery voltage, etc.) 4). DWELL OSCILLATING, AVERAGE READING IS BELOW 30 DEGREES: average rich command is present (check for vacuum leaks, dirt in carburetor's jets, improperly set a/f mixture...) 5). DWELL OSCILLATING, AVERAGE READING IS ABOVE 30 DEGREES: average lean command is present. Check for incorrectly set a/f mixture, float stuck low, valve seat damage, clogged air filter, etc...). Based on the above descriptions, it should be fairly clear on how to set the idle a/f mixtu merely set the mixture so that the average dwell is 30 degrees. Now, suppose the system's dwell is not varying, but the sensors are working properly, the upper radiator hose is hot... Several cars with small engines have the oxygen sensor mounted fairly far away from the engines. During idle conditions, the sensor may cool off to the point that it will not operate. Turn off all electrical accessories (so as to provide a minimal load on the engine) and use the idle stop screw on the carburetor to gradually increase the idle rpm until the sensor begins oscillating. Ensuring a negligible load on the engine guarantees that the carburetor will be operating mostly on its idle circuit. Now, set the a/f mixture so that the average dwell is 30 degrees. Note that the a/f mixture setting procedure assumes that NO fuel delivery problems (vacuum leaks, clogged carburetor, etc.) are present. FOOTNOTES [1] In some engines the a/f mixture is varied REGARDLESS of whether the engine is in closed loop operation or not. Consider setting the a/f mixture or diagnosing at a slightly increased rpm. ************************************************** 5. REPLACING CRANKCASE INLET AIR FILTERS If you remove the air cleaner and look at it from the front, the breather (crankcase filter) will be in the "box" at the lower right side. To get at it, you remove the 8 or so machine screws and the bottom of this "box" will fall off. The filter is held in place by a crudely placed screen. Lee makes a replacement filter (about $2). In my Le Baron, I ended up replacing all the screws with self-tapping sheet metal screws since the factory had almost every one overtightened. --- Bohdan Bodnar David Zatz works at http://www.toolpack.com/ |
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Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part4
Posting-Frequency: 15 days Last-modified: 2004/4/13 Version: 4.2 IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to . Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE. Instead, reply to faq2 at that allpar /dot/ com address. Thank you. - - - - - - - - - - - - DISCLAIMER: The author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages from the use of the information. Some of the information is opinion. The writers and the maintainer are not authorities. Any part of this FAQ may be reproduced IF credit is given to the writers and the maintainer; it is not published in any form without the prior written permission of the maintainer; the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a FREE copy of the final material; and no changes are made without the permission of the maintainer. The maintainer, David Zatz, works at http://www.toolpack.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - PART IV - Engines: Idling, power, stalling, mileage; transmissions There is a separate Neon FAQ. Also see: Part 3 - Classic cars Part 5 - Funny noises, oil leaks, temperature stuff Part 6 - Other stuff * Many problems are caused by poor battery connections to the cables, which can cause signals to the computer to be incorrect. Check and clean the battery terminals and cables first! * If your antifreeze was just changed and your car started to overheat, purge the system of air bubbles. * Additional information on troubleshooting and repairs is on the web site at http://www.allpar.com/ ** Index ** Note: there are *several* entries for some problems. Try using the "search" or "find" feature of your word processor, or browse through the entries. We have eliminated some relatively uncommon entries. 1. Stall/hesitation/sag 3. Idle speed jumps OR Intermittent idle speed problems (2.2/2.5) *** (see also #28 and other items) 4. Transmission noise: when shifting/stopping, buzzng/ratcheting 6. Fast idle on startup 8. Knocking 9. Gas mileage / rough running easy fix 12. Computer code 13 (MAP sensor) - engine runs rough (see #15) 15. Cold / freezing weather problems 16. Hard to shift in cold weather 17. 2.5L engine knocks/ticks; poor cold idle 22. Other transmission issues 23. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping 26. Harsh 2-1 downshifts 27. Rough idle - mod 1/96 - several causes 28. Idle speed increases / engine races sometimes / erratically (see web site). 30. Power loss, stalling, and/or rough running 33. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6) / icing of carburetor and other parts 37. Magnum V-6 engine problems 41. Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter 43. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5) 44. Power loss/jerky on acceleration 45. Turbo engine cutout/power loss: See web site. 47. Hesitation (see related topics above) 48. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT 49. Turbo cutting out / power loss light 50. Jeep 4.0 stalling 54. Hesitation, 3.0 liter V-6 73. Transmission clunk / rough downshift or shudder 77. 3-speed automatic flare-up / slow 1-2 shifts 80. Power loss or gas mileage loss 82. Poor mileage, cold starts 83. Mitsubishi 2.6 cold start / drivability 1. Stall, hesitation, or sag See http://www.allpar.com/fix/stall.html for a full list. --------------------------------------------------------------------- 3. Intermittent Idle Problems: (see also #28, #30) Problem: on 84 Laser, 88 Omni, and 87 Shadow (2.2 liter, turbo and non-turbo), idle suddenly jumps from 800 rpm to 3000 rpm. Sometimes goes away quickly, sometimes doesn't. Solution: turning off the defroster; check the speed/distance sensor and connection (Tom), freon level in the a/c (james eldridge), and the wiring harness on the back side of the engine (Jeffrey Wieland). Jeff found that the wiring harness got hot enough to damage the wire insulation; he spearated and re-insulated the wires, which fixed the problem. ********** High idle, 2.2/2.5 TBI: Most likely automatic idle speed system. Check for fault codes. Check wiring harness near AIS motor for shorted wires or wires that seem stuck together (separate and insulate from each other). Also check EGR system, vacuum system, and timing. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 4. Transmission noise: when shifting/stopping, buzzng/ratcheting Bob Meyer wrote about the Stratus (Cirrus/Breeze)'s automatic transmission making a buzzing/ratcheting noise when shifting gears or pulling to a stop. He said this noise, which also occurs on the Acclaim and other cars, is normal and comes from the solenoids. It is most noticeable from outside the car. He warned that a continuous buzz or whine could indicate low fluid or a bad pump, "But if what you're hearing is only during shifting from park into reverse or drive or coming to a stop, then the dealer is probably telling you the truth." ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 6. Fast idle on startup (Bohdan Bodnar): This is normal for [some] Chrysler products. The throttle body temperature sensor is used ONLY during hot restarts; during a hot restart, it is the dominant temperature sensor for the first 10 seconds only. So, if the engine runs funny for almost exactly 10 seconds during a hot restart, consider cleaning the contacts of that sensor. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 8. Knocking The knocking could be caused by low oil pressure. You'd probably want to have this tested. It is possible to replace the stock oil pump with a "high flow" pump which will alleviate this problem (or, rebuild the engine). - Bohdan Bodnar, ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 9. Gas mileage / rough running easy fix Vaughn Smith suggests that, when you replace your rotor ($6 at a dealer), you clean the Hall effect pickup (just under the rotor, you can't miss it!). This helped him quite a bit on three cars. Be careful to put it back the exact same way it was when you took it out! Also clean under and around it. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 12. Engine runs rough - computer shows code 13 From: Jizhong Wang - 84 Dodge 600 ES A couple of months ago the car stalled with the "Power Loss" light. My computer said it was MAP sensor vacuum circuit (code 13). I took the car to a dealer and was told my computer was faulty - didn't replace it. Later I found a 6-way connector was loose. It was AIS motor and TPS sensor connector, nothing to do with MAP sensor. Check the connections and vacuum leaks before you replace it. BTW, my MAP sensor is under dash of passenger side, inside the car. It is two inches above ECM. <Thomas Z. Zeeb> adds: on Caravan/Voyager, it is under the hood and screwed into the firewall, just off center to the left, above and behind the belts. It has one vacuum hose and one three-node electrical connector attached to it. They range from $70 -$100 US at the dealer. If the MAP is shot, the engine will shut down after starting. Try disconnecting the MAP, the engine will then run (rough) in some models. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 15. Cold weather problems Glen Larche said a MAP relocation kit is available to prevent problems in freezing temps (rough cold idle, stalling): Kit for turbo vehicles- 4419402 Kit for EFI vehicles- 4419401 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 16. Hard to shift into reverse (manual transmissions) francini sez this problem is common to cars which have nonsynchronized reverse gears. Shift into a forward gear before going into reverse. Or wait a few moments before shifting into reverse, after hitting the clutch, so the engine shaft stops spinning. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 17. 2.5 liter knock/idle (Janos Schumacher) says: "A 2.5 is a stroked 2.2 so the skirt of the piston goes past the bottom of the cylinder. This makes the piston wear away at the cylinder walls making them slightly oval. The noise you are hearing is known as piston slap and the only solution is to turn up the radio. Once the car warms up the cylinders become more round and the noise goes away." Chrysler's service bulletin says: Cold engine knock a few seconds after startup, lasting 3-5 minutes -- most noticable at 2,000 - 2,500 rpm. Sounds like valve lifter or tappet noise. Loudest in colder weather. Usually disappears when the car is warm. OR Cold idle rough util coolant reaches 50-60 degrees F. -- TSB 09-06-93 provides for computer replacement. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 22. Other transmission issues See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 23. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping Jim Zimmerman had this in his Caravan. There is a TSB, but the dealer said "you have to complain LOUDLY." The service guy called it the 'post shift bang' " ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 26. Harsh 2-1 downshifts TSB 21-16-93 covers "harsh 2-1 downshift" on the 41TE transaxle, the four-speed auto in most CC cars from 1989-1992. The change is replacing the transmission control module (3.3, 3.8, or 3.0 liter engine only). ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 27. Rough idle - several cases Switched from Getty and Citgo gas to Mobil, Amoco, and Gulf. Made a tremendous difference. EGR valve may be stuck open or rusted off. Engine idled erratically when warm, sometimes lost power after first response when accelerator pressed about 1/3-1/4 down. Dealer first adjusted venting at gas tank, seemed to help the idle. Then cleaned and sealed the battery connector, solving the problem; was probably bad battery connection causing system voltage fluctuation, which caused changes in the controls. (Mustafa Soysal) (edited) My car died slowing down...I disconnected my EGR backpressure transducer from the vacuum lead. Now my car is a little bit more stable at idle, better gas mileage, most likely can't pass emisions. (Jeffrey Paul Chojnacki) - note: others warned against disconnecting EGR; there may have been a leak in the EGR system. My 1986 Le Baron engine's CTS's connections had corrosion on them (a scan tool showed that it took a long time to reach 180F and that it NEVER went above 180F during highway driving); I opted to replace the CTS and connector. Cold start problems went away and fuel efficiency improved. No fault codes. If you have hot restart problems which disappear after 10 seconds of engine running, use tuner cleaner on the throttle body temperature sensor's connector and see if the situation improves. (Bohdan Bodnar) Dave says: try the basics. Replace the rotor ($6), distributor cap, wires (silicone coated lifetime warranty name brand=$20 mail order!), and clean and regap the plugs. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 30. Power loss, stalling, and/or rough running I have an 87 Sundance 2.2 which has 130k miles and runs great. It had power loss, stalling, rough running; replaced the $20 MAP sensor (passenger side fender well) and fixed it. First time it went bad, did not show up on dealer computer. (Phil McClay) Tach danced around, engine sometimes stalled. Solution: the computer (SMEC)'s grounding wire was loose, causing the computer to go nuts. The wire leads from the computer to a ring connector bolted onto the engine block at the air filter housing. Clean the corrosion off of all parts. (David Schmitt) Ron Smith's 1986 Lebaron GTS was stalling after warmup and not restarting. The fuel pump was worn out. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 33. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6) In cold weather, some vehicles with the 2.6 liter 4-cylinder engine may have severe power loss (e.g. after running about 20 minutes between 60 and 65 mph). If one steps on the gas, black smoke may come out of the tailpipe. The solution (from Dave Witte): A de-icing kit to heat the intake air enough to prevent freezing. SOME engines had this kit at the factory. The kit is not expensive. --- My manual shows that the 2.6 had a carb air heater. The tube that comes up from the exhaust manifold, will be on the back side of the engine, and hard to reach. When the engine is cold, make sure that the vacuum actuator in the air horn leading to the air cleaner housing is working. In cold weather, with the engine cold, it should redirect all of the air flow through the stove on the exhaust manifold. (Jeff Wieland) --- The problem was freezing of the carb. and the answer was to moved the hose that feeds outside air to the air filter compartment and position it somehwere to the rear of the engine. This prevents the outside cold air from making its way over to the carb.(Ken) ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 37. Magnum V-6 engine problems Problem: 1992 Dakota 4x4 with Magnum V-6. Engine faltering badly sometimes when cold, sometimes when hot. On cold starts, the engine will sometimes act as though it's getting gas only at idle, won't accelerate. It will cough and sputter awhile, then "catch" and take off, running fine from then on. Other times, it will "skip a beat or two" at speed, under mild acceleration. David Wright: Some Magnum engines came with "mis-phased" distributors, causing intermittent missing. Jerald Barker: Replace the back pressure transducer and EGR valve. The Back Pressure Transducer lies next to the EGR valve just above the left valve cover. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 41. Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter >After running for about 20 minutes the power drops out to the point >where I have to pull over. If I am in "Park or Neutral" and step on the >gas pedal, black smoke comes from the tail pipe. With 2.6L engined minivans ... the airflow goes right over the carburetor ... freezing it solid. Seconfd you stop, engine heat thaws it out (which is why you can stop, restart, and it seems a lot better). I put a metal shield in front of the carburetor to deflect wind around it and it worked. -- Jonathan N. Deitch ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 43. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5) 2.5 liter, TBI: Intermittent engine hesitation under high speed driving ONLY or under moderately high speed and heavy acceleration. The problem NEVER occurs during moderate driving or heavy acceleration at low to moderate speeds. The brass pin you see from the top of the injector -- they didn't make it a tight enough fit. Eventually the pin begins to back out and the ECM keeps shortening the injector pulse to compensate for the change in mixture. The process can take several months before it produces symptoms. The pin backs out to a point that the ECM can no longer compensate for and you get driveability problems. (dotto) First check fuel pressure, around 14.5 psi engine off (using DRB in actuator test) I have seen the distributor pick-up unit on these cut out intermittently. When the computer loses the signal from the distributor, it shuts fuel/spark off. The Hall-effect plate tends to get loose. One TSB involves re-locating the MAP sensor from the logic module(right kick panel) to the right strut tower. EGR failures are also common. They sometimes get stuck open and cause hesitation; try disconnecting the vacuum hose from the EGR valve. The car will probably ping on acceleration, but hesitation should cease. The valve is located on the driver's side end of the exhaust manifold. You may have to remove the air cleaner housing to see it. Faulty TPS sensor can cause this type of problem. It may have a "dead spot" (Eric Eleazar) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 44. Power loss/jerky on acceleration Turned out to be the fuel filter (86 Aries 5-speed, 2.2).(Dave) (89 Aries, 2.5, after 1/2 hour car jerks, fine on short drives): it would falter. The dealers (all 13 I went to) replaced the map sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, turbo boost solenoid, egr valve, pcv valve, and just about every other gadget...I found a dealer who knew something, and they fixed the problem in under an hour. The plug wires had been installed incorrectly. (jnoyes) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 47. Hesitation (also covered elsewhere) Problem: 2.5 engine hesitates/sputters/lurches for a second now and then under normal driving conditions (highway, cruising, foot steady on gas). Reason: plug wires were going bad. (Paul F. Schikora ) Problem: hesitation/lurching. Solution: fouled plugs. Oil fouled plugs may indicate serious problems or just bad PCV valve. Problem: 3.0 V-6 bogging on acceleration. Solution: clean the throttle body if it has gumming or varnish. You may have to clean the throttle plate edges with Scotch Bright pads and clean the bore using a good carburetor spray solvent. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 48. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT My 1992 Dakota 3.9L needed a new timing chain and gears at 49,000 miles. This was originally diagnosed as "mis-phased" distributer, and "fixed" to some degree. .... According to one of the service managers, the 1992 Magnums had a "single roller" roller chain. The 93+ engines have the more typical double roller. This may be a common problem for the pre-93s. The misfiring had been happening sometimes on upshifts, but worsened as performance sagged. The misfiring occurs when the rotor gets enough out of phase that the spark gets fed to the wrong cylinder. Ignition timing is not changed by this problem, valve timing *is*, and distributer rotor "phase" is. Get it fixed SOON. (Ron Luse) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 49. Turbo cuts out/power limited/power loss light Under hard acceleration, the engine would cut out, rock like hell and the check engine light would come on (until I released the pedal). (2.2 turbo) It turned out to be a disconnected vacuum hose to the wastegate assembly. (Ralph J. Zottola) If the wastegate is not opening, the turbo will overboost, the the computer will cut the fuel. As the RPM decreases, the boost lowers and the fuel comes back on. (Mac Alan Crossett) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 50. Jeep 4.0 EFI engine stalls at a stop (Jeep 4.0 stalling). The problem is the flywheel sensor. It is located by following the wires from the along the firewall and along the bellhousing. These sensors get worn out from debris and it also might be just the wires going to it. I had the same problem and took it to a dealer and they couldn't figure it out either. (Ken Talley) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------------------------------------------- 54. 3.0 V-6 hesitation or bogging on acceleration Check throttle body for gumming or varnish. You may have to clean the throttle plate edges with Scotch Bright pads and clean the bore using a good carburetor spray solvent. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 73. LH transmission clunk / rough downshift (Blair Wetmore)'s dealer reprogrammed the 4-speed transmission's computer to cure the shudder when the torque converter locked up under light throttle. Downshifts at low speeds are much better. (Vincent Paul) notes that there is a TSB on other four-speed automatic transmission shudders and mis-shifts. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 77. 3-speed automatic flare-up / slow 1-2 shifts profgmby and Wayne Taylor both had vehicles with 3-speed TorqueFlites. In colder weather the engine flares or shifts slowly during the first few hundred yards. profgmby says this causes no problems and has over 150,000 miles on his. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 80. Power loss or gas mileage loss Vaughn Smith's 2.5 was losing power and mileage. While replacing a burnt rotor (one thing to look at), he took off the Hall effect sensor. He saw that it read when each "vane" on the distributor shaft passed the pickup point; the inner surface of the vane, though, was extremely dirty. He replaced the rotor and cleaned the vane, and found that gas mileage and power increased. He also found this problem on a 2.2 TBI and a 2.2 Turbo, with some improvement in each case. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 82. Poor mileage, cold starts George Lobay's 2.2 TBI had poor gas mileage, poor cold starts, and codes 17, 22, and 52. The cause was a bad connection in the circuit to the coolant sensor, causing the computer to guess the engine temperature (high idle). The cu cleaning near the coolant sensor connector, on the round 6-position connector in behind the battery; and on the bulkhead connector on the driver's side. Then check voltage at coolant sensor (leave it connected, just skin a bit off the insulation of each wire and tap in with your multimeter) it should be somewhere in the 3 Volt range. If that doesn't do it the only connector left is the one on the computer. Note: don't forget that if you remove the computer connector you must re-grease it by Chrysler procedures. -------------------------------------------- 83/ Cold start/initial run problem - MMC 2.6 (Courtesy Marvin Stockman) The Mitsubishi 2.6's carburetor choke pulloff tends to break; the only fix is a $700 replacement. I have made a twisted loop (like a hangmans noose) of soft metal wire and place the noose section around the stud that holds the air cleaner duct. I let the twisted straight section hang down into the throat of the carburetor. I try to get the wire as close to the wall of the carburetor as I can. This has the effect of preventing the choke plate from closing completely, and eliminates any cold running problem. It is important to use thin wire ( I used soft aluminum wire) in order to keep the opening small, otherwise the initial idle is very high. Another solution would be to drill a small hole in the choke plate. During very cold weather, I pump the accelerator 4 to 5 times and the car starts right up. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- For more, visit http://www.allpar.com/ - trouble, fix, help, and EEK! sections mainly |
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Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part6
Posting-Frequency: 15 days Last-modified: 2004/4/13 Version: 4.4 DISCLAIMER: Effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in this compilation, but the author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors, omissions, or damages resulting from the use of the information. Some of the information is opinion. The writers and the maintainer are not authorities. Any part of this FAQ may be reproduced PROVIDED that credit is given to the writers and the maintainer; that it is not published in any form without the prior written permission of the maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a FREE copy of the final material; and that no changes are made without the express permission of the maintainer (Dr. David Zatz - http://www.toolpack.com/ surveys and organizational development consulting - he also hangs out at http://www.ptcruizer.com/ ). - - - - - - - - - - - - IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to (e-mail address removed). Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE. Instead, reply to faq2 at that allpar /dot/ com address. Thank you. - - - - - - - - - - - - Please do NOT ask me car-related questions, as I have a limited. personal knowledge. Thank you. See http://www.allpar.com/trouble.html or rec.autos.makers.chrysler instead. - - - - - - - - - - - - PART VI - Other Troubleshooting / Quick Fixes There is a specific Neon FAQ. This section of the FAQ may be eliminated soon. Other parts of this FAQ: Part 3 - Classic cars Part 4 - Driveability and transmission Part 5 - Funny noises and oil leaks and temperature stuff * Many problems are caused by poor battery connections to the cables, which can cause signals to the computer to be incorrect without (or with) fault codes being registered. Check and clean the battery terminals and cables first! * Additional information on troubleshooting and repairs is on the web site at http://www.allpar.com/ * Some of these issues are discussed in detail at http://www.valiant.org/ (a site dedicated to A-bodies like the Dodge Dart and Plymouth Valiant and Plymouth Duster.) Note: there are *several* entries for some problems. 1. Fuel leak - ALL 2.2 engines 2. Rampage (maybe other models) - water leaks 3. Loose steering 5. Doors freezing shut 8. Air conditioner (a/c) smell 9. Caravan/Voyager door won't open/close 11. Check Engine light went on 13. DING sound when hard cornering 20. Speedometer doesn't work 21. ABS jerky 24. Brake rotor warping 29. Smoky exhaust 32. Water leak in Shadow/Sundance hatch 36. Control/status panel/console acting funny 52. ABS note - Chrysler and GM minivans (see also #64) 55. Service engine light goes on. 56. Cruise control problems 57. Battery charging problems 58. Sundance/Shadow (possibly others) hatchback leak 59. Car/minivan will not start; makes CLICK noise instead 60. Spongy / mushy brakes 61. Squeal when a/c is/goes on; adjusting belt tension 63. Weatherstrip repairs 64. Preventing ABS problems 66. Jeep 4.0 noise 67. LH clunk on acceleration 68. Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze wipers acting funny 69. 4-speed auto trans problems - misc 70. Shimmy under acceleration - 35-45 mph 72. Gas gauge acting funny 74. Backfiring 75. PREVENTION - 3.0 liter engine 78. CV boot replacement 81. Rear defrost activated by brake lights 84. Odd behavior when starting (e.g. wiper activation) 86. Fluid leaks (inside the car) ================================================== ============== 1. FUEL LEAKS: There was a recall for fuel line replacements on some vehicles in 1988. A rigid line was replaced with a flexible one between the metal line and fuel pressure regulator. (Sherrie Settle). All 2.2 turbo owners should check their fuel clamps for leaks on a regular basis. This is VERY important. Tighten them if needed. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2. Water leaks (Rampage, possibly other L bodies) Gary Howell <(e-mail address removed).net> says: Under the windsheild at each lower corner, holes rust through. The best fix is to remove the windsheild and have the body work done properly. The cheap fix is to remove the windsheild trim and fill the holes with RTV. The holes are not always visable to the eye, sometimes the holes are under the glass or like a micro screen. If a speaker wire has been run through the door seal, water will sometimes follow the wire past the seal. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 3. Loose steering Check the ball joints and tie rods. For M-bodies and A-bodies, try replacing the current steering box with a new police-type steering chuck from Mopar Performance (or used from a police car or taxi). ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 5. Doors freezing shut Jim Van Damme suggestd: 1. Open the door panel and undo the nuts that hold the door latch onto the door. Slide the whole latch down (or was it up?) to allow the handle to engage sooner. 2. Lubricate it well (de-ice with WD-40) when you've got the panel off. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 8. A/C smell David Ta believes the a/c smell comes from condensation collecting on the horizontal fins of compressors used on some models. One way to prevent this is to blow hot air for a couple of minutes before turning off the ignition. There is a Chrysler extra warranty of 7/70 on LH evaporators). This is a problem on many different makes and models, and normally the dealer will try to solve it using fungicide. David Ta also said a GM friend of his mixed water and baking soda, and poured it into the drain area next to the firewall, later rinsing with a water hose. He did this once a year when he winterized. A new solution (sent by David Ta) was described by Popular Mechanics, in November 1996: AC Delco's kit No. 15-8632 and relay (if necessary) 15-8264, to run the blower for 5 minutes, an hour after the ignition is turned off if the a/c has been turned on for at least 4 minutes. The article also gives a short-term fix with GM spray can and verifying the evap drain hole at the firewall is not blocked. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 9. Caravan/Voyager stuck doors: Mike Stallcup couldn't get his minivan door to close, so he turned the power locks on and off a few times. Fixed it. Someone else found the problem to be a loose trim panel held to the back of the door. The roller on the track at the top/inside of the door was also out of alignment; the bolts had loosened and the door was not closing tight. Check the tightness of the bolts. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 11. Check Engine light goes on: 1. This may be due to the need for a periodic service. 2. It may be the oxygen sensor (Steve Sheldon) 3. Check computer codes (see part 3) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 13. DING sound when hard cornering Paul Schikora suggested this might be the low gas alert being sounded due to the gas sloshing around in the tank. Pete Morrissette said he also had a dinging sound, but not the same kind: his Voyager's sliding door pinged/dinged on bumps and turns. Paul Schikora said the bolt connecting the door to the arm (which slides in the track at the front top of the door) sometimes loosened. To check, grab the door there and try to push/pull it; if it moves in and out, the bolt must be tightened. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 20. Speedometer doesn't work There is a TSB out on this problem with the Shadow/Sundance. Take it to your dealer, they should fix it for free. The TSB was issued in 1994. The problem is the speed sensor connector; a new one must be spliced in. Details from Neil Emiro on replacing the speed sensor yourself follow. They probably apply to all K-based (and extended K-based) cars: To get it out, you will need a 10mm wrench, a flat blade screwdriver, and if your car has cruise, a 19mm wrench. Jack the car up. If you look underneath at the oil pan plug, and look back on the car, to where the axle goes into the tranny, you will see it. It's mounted in the top of that extension housing. If your unit is round, just unplug it and remove the cable if there is one, and pry it up, putting the screwdriver between the black body of the sensor, and the natural color base. If your unit is kind of short and diamond shaped, disconnect the wiring and cable, and there's a 10mm bolt on the far side that you'll probably be able to feel better than see. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 21. ABS jerky Dealer reprogramming the PCM fixes the brakes. (Steve Chu) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 24. Brake rotor warping The dealers have received a bulletin saying that if cars come in with less than 30,000 miles with worn out brake pads and rotors in need of turning they are to do it under warranty. (Mary Bucy) If lug nuts are over-tightened, it places too much stress on the rotors resulting in warpage soon thereafter. I always go over each lug with a torque wrench set at 90 ft lbs. (Ted Ruscha) Jeff Brinkerhoff <(e-mail address removed)> wrote that rotors are a frequent problem, but that replacing them with aftermarket rotors usually works well. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 29. Smoky exhaust From: (e-mail address removed) (Mo Brooks) Smoke Color / Reason Black = Too much fuel (probably bad sensor or dirty air cleaner) Blue = Oil White = Water Black smoke on acceleration in early 2.2l engines may come from the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose at the elbow; may be a bad injector; or may be duel to high fuel pressure. You may want to check for restrictions in the fuel return line. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 32. Water leak in Shadow/Sundance hatch Tim Drake fixed his 1987 Sundance trunk leak by taking the light cover off and treated the gaskets and drilled small holes in the bottom of the light covers, so the water could leak out the bottom. From: (e-mail address removed) (Wade M. Goldman) fixed the water in his trunk and right tail light assembly (which caused on tail light to be dimmer than the other). After replacing the light socket he corrected a gap between the light assembly moulding and the car with RTV silicone. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 36. Control/status panel acting funny Test the Control Panel by holding down the trip and reset buttons, turning ignition on, releasing the buttons, then pressing the US/Met button. Read the speedo. Press the US/Met button and you should see a six. Also check the codes in the engine computer -- (Matt Rowe) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ --------------------------------------------------------------------- 52. ABS note See http://www.allpar.com/fix/ABS.html ----------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 55. Service engine light goes on. Service the engine. The light can be shut off with a special tool. Or remove the bulb. -------------------------------------------- 56. Cruise control problems Many older cars used both a speed sensor and a speedo cable, so the speed sensor could go with affecting the speedometer. Fault codes might not appear if the speed sensor is giving an incorrect signal. -------------------------------------------- 57. Battery charging problems Check the battery cables, then check the alternator with a test light and/or a voltmeter or an alternator/charging system analyzer. There are usually four connections on a Chrysler alternator, one large terminal (power out), one ground, and two field control wires. To check the field control wires, test both for voltage with the engine running. One should show battery voltage, the other a reduced voltage. If both show battery voltage, the problem could be in the computer (not providing a ground for the second field circuit). If one has battery voltage and the other shows a much reduced voltage, the computer probably is trying to "full field" the alternator and therefore the alternator is probably the problem. Check output voltage. If output voltage is extremely high (20 volts or more) check the circuit from the output terminal to the battery for an open. If the voltage is battery volts but not a charging voltage and the fields seem correct, suspect the alternator. -------------------------------------------- 58. Hatchback water leaks From: (e-mail address removed).com (25312-lazaro) Water enters the trunk by running down the side of the hatch opening and when it reaches the tail lights, it flows into them. From there, it pours into the trunk through the holes that the tail light bulbs fit through. From inside the trunk, remove the tail light bulb cover panel. Now unfasten a few of the tail light bulbs and let them hang into the trunk. With a long 1/4 inch drill bit (or similar size), drill a few holes in the bottom of the tail light lens by sticking the bit through the holes the the bulbs occupied. This allows the water that enters the tail lights to drain out these holes and onto the ground instead of accumulating in the tail lights and pouring into the trunk through the bulb holes. I drilled about 3 or four 1/4 inch holes per each bulb location. Did the trick. The trunk has been bone dry ever since.I replaced the water-damaged carpet backing with 1/2 inch household carpet backing that I got at a home improvement store and cut to size. It improves the sound deadening, too. The cardboard floor (spare tire cover) was water damaged too, so I got a new one for ~$25 at the dealer. Make sure you air dry the trunk real well. I had so much water that I had to pull the drain plug at the bottom of the spare tire well to let it out. I know of Ford Probes suffering this same problem (with similar solution) due to the same hatchback & tail light configuration. -------------------------------------------- 59. Car / minivan will not start, CLICK!s instead David J. Allen quoted (e-mail address removed).mil as saying that, when his 89 Caravan sometimes made a loud CLICK instead of starting, he saw that the starter solenoid contacts were eroded down the thickness of a penny. Vandamme soldered a real copper penny, filed to the shape of the missing electrode, into the space. David J. Allen wrote: [On my 88 Caravan,] I tore the starter down and found that the contacts had worn down to the point of only providing intermittant contact when engaged. A friend of mine brought me a couple of strips of 1/8" copper from work which I cut and formed into new contacts. They fit right in and I haven't had a problem yet (1 1/2 years). -------------------------------------------- 60. Spongy / mushy brakes Mushy / spongy brakes, especially after brake servicing: Have the brake fluid bled *properly* (most mechanics will not do it the correct way). Jim Murphy says that Chrysler has a new procedure involving pumping the brakes to pressurize the system, then opening the bleed screw to allow the fluid and air to rush out. The details: 1: Pump pedal three or four times and hold it down before bleeder screw is opened 2: Push pedal toward floor and hold it while bleeder screw is opened 3: Release the pedal after the bleeder screw is closed 4: Repeat steps 1 through 3, four or five times, at each bleeder screw to pass a sufficient amount of fluid to expel all the trapped air from anywhere in the system. CAUTION: Just cracking the bleeder screw often restricts fluid flow, and a slow weak fluid discharge will NOT get all the air out. Open the screw at least one full turn. -------------------------------------------- 61. Squeal when a/c is on; adjusting belts You can replace the idler pulley and belt to stop the squeal on the minivans and some other vehicles. It may go away given a month. On some vehicles you may need to adjust belt tension, but do not overtighten, or you will need many expensive new parts! NOTE Adjusting Caravan belts: A tensioner is below the alternator. Put a 15mm wrench on it and pull down (like you were tightening that bolt) and the tensioner will rotate and take the tension off of the belt. Much easier from underneath by removing the splash sheild. That is held by 4 10mm screws. BUT BE CAREFUL!!! I own 2 CC products; an '88 Caravan 2.5L and an '89 Sundance 2.5L. AC clutch went on both at about 80,000 mi, again on both about 30,000 mi later, again, etc., etc. Found out that if the belts are not tightened within specs., it wipes out the bearings SOON!!! Only use a Burroughs belt tension gauge - about $50.00. NO MORE PROBLEMS!! Hope this helps. By the way, the Sundance has over 200,000 mi, and the Caravan has 135,000 - no other serious problems, other than CV boot replacements. -------------------------------------------- 63. Weatherstrip repair Marvin Stockman <(e-mail address removed).navy.mil> reports: I usually purchase a caulking gun sized tube of black GE Silicon II sealant. Clean off the damaged weatherstripping with alcohol or other suitable cleaner. Apply an appropriate amount of sealer to damaged area. Cover area with plastic kitchen wrap and with sealer covered form to an appropriate shape. Close door. Car can be used and door can be opened and closed, but don't remove plastic for 3 or 4 days. Don't use Saran wrap as most silicone sealers need moisture to set and Saran is too good a vapor barrior. I have done this for many years on many cars. -------------------------------------------- 64. Preventing ABS problems Marv Miller cautions: Due to the fact that the ABS-10 uses an accumulator, which acts as a "pressure reservoir", the fluid level in the master cylinder varies. When the pump pressurizes the accumulator, the fluid level in the master cylinder drops by about 1/2 inch - the fluid went into the accumulator. This is why you are supposed to completely depressurize the system by fifty or more depressions of the pedal before checking the fluid. The accumulator will empty back into the master cylinder reservoir. If you don't depressurize the system to check the level, when the accumulator pressure drops (in deteriorating systems this sometimes happens overnight), brake fluid will overflow out of the master cylinder caps. -------------------------------------------- 66. Jeep 4.0 noise >We recently bought a 95 Cherokee with the 4.0l 6cyl engine. After a >couple thousand miles, it started making a knocking sound at idle. It >sounds to me like one valve is out of adjustment. Don Ferrario responded: This is typical of the 4.0L engine. Other than the sound, which is admittedly alarming, it should not cause any other problem. (note: In 1996, the 4.0 was redesigned to lower noise.) -------------------------------------------- 67. LH clunk Michael Kell and others wrote about a clunking noise in LH models when people coast and then accelerate again. Retorquing the front axle nuts to 120 lb ft may fix it - but it may not (see below). David Ta's dealer pointed him to TSB 02-04-95, which says to replace the outer C/V joints. Mr. Ta was kind enough to inform the FAQ maintainer in e-mail. -------------------------------------------- 68. Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze wipers acting funny This may simply be the speed-sensitive wiper speed feature at work. However, some, including Pierce Leonberger, found that the problem was only solved when the dealer recalibrated the wiper module, which controls the wiper timing. There may be a TSB out on this problem. -------------------------------------------- 69. Misc 4-speed automatic transmission problems See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html for a full and up to date list. ***NEVER USE DEXRON IN A CHRYSLER 4-SPEED AUTOMATIC ***FLUSH THE SYSTEM AND RETRAIN THE COMPUTER IF DEXRON IS IN IT -------------------------------------------- 70. Shimmy under acceleration - 35-45 mph (e-mail address removed).net responds to a complaint of shimmy in a 96,000 mile 1986 Dodge Aries from 35-45 mph under accleration. He said that the inner CV joint housing on the passenger side axle is worn. Probably easiest repair is to replace passenger side axle with rebuilt unit. There is a possiblity of it being in the drivers axle. But it is more common in the passenger axle based on your complaint. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 72. Gas gauge acting funny (e-mail address removed): on a 1987 Caravan, the gas gauge kept creeping up to full. The problem was a small circuit board, part 4375318. Dean Seaman added the board is no longer used, but did dampen pointer movement. Some gauges used a thick liquid instead. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 74. Backfiring Ty Young reports that his 143,000 mile 1985 Caravan's backfiring (on sudden decelaration) was cured by using 89 octane gas instead of 87. (But was the timing OK?) -------------------------------------------- 75. 3.0 liter PREVENTION Drop the oil pan after 100,000 miles and clean the screen on the oil pick-up. Mine was choked down to an opening about the size of a dime. The oil seems to get charred in the head closest to the firewall and works its way down. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 78. CV boot replacement From: (e-mail address removed) (Old Mcgroin) replaced the CV boots on his 88 Daytona: "There is one bolt on each wheel you have to take off first. Remove each hub then the axles will just slide out of the tranny (along with the fliud so catch it in a pail) On each CV joint there is one snap ring holding everything together. Once inside the CV there are a few ball bearings and a cage, it all fits together very straightforward. This was my first time with no problems." -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 81. Rear defroster activated by brake lights Rivas Patrick writes that his 88 Shadow's rear defroster went on when he hit the brakes. The problem was that the wires going to the hatch from the roof had broken their insulation and were touching each other when the hatch was closed. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 84. Odd behavior when starting (e.g. wiper runs) With regard to funny electrical things (in this case, the rear window washer or rear wiper coming on) when starting a vehicle, or the vehicle acting like it has a low battery, Ken Bessler <(e-mail address removed)> advises: The problem is one of two things: your ignition timing (no - really!) is just a hair too far advanced or you battery is getting old. When ignition timing is too far advanced, the engine tries to fire before the piston gets all the way up. The piston tries to go the wrong way, fighting the starter and causing a big voltage drop across the whole van. This messes up the logic circuits. Listen to the way your engine cranks over before it fires. This sound should be fairly even and smooth. If not, back your timing up a bit. If your engine turns over smoothly, then your battery is suspect. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 86. Fluid leaks (inside the car) Bob Meyer <robert_(e-mail address removed)> writes: If the fluid is antifreeze (green, sweet smell, hot), you may have a heater core leak (or loose hose connections). If the fluid is water, most likely the AC condensation tube is blocked (note: this refers to a Sundance/Shadow/Duster). When the AC runs on a humid day, a puddle of water should form underneath this drain if it is working correctly. Look on the firewall behind and below the power steering pump - you should find a rubber tube. Make sure that nothing is blocking the tip. If this doesn't help, you may have a bunch of leaves and junk inside blocking it. Some times you can back flush it with a garden hose or fish out the leaves with a wire. If the condensation drain is open and working, and you still have water on the floor, make sure the cowl drains are clear. The last thing would be to check the gasket that seals the blower fan (under and behind the glove box). If this is leaking, loosen the accessable lower screws, force a bit of strip caulk into the seal gap, and retighten. -------------------------------------------- |
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