A couple of questions regarding suspension installation

Ok, so I've been talking for the last couple of years about doing my shocks,
and this year I fianlly had the money to do it. I went back and forth on
doing it myself, but in the end I decided to do it.

So I did the rears with not too much trouble, except that I had to wait for
a shock boot to be ordered. I had checked them before hand, and they seemed
fine, but the driver's side one was shreaded. So I got it all back together,
and it's all good.

I didn't get around to the front till today, and it was a miserable time. I
had quite a time getting it out, and I'm unsure if I'll be able to get it
back in all right.

My first question is, I read most everything I could find on miata.net on
this, and it seemed to suggest that there was a place to find shock boots
for $7. Well, the prices I got were $20 to almost $60. The local dealers
were not even sure it could be gotten seprerate from the shock, and they
said they'd never had to order one before. I ended up ordering one through
NAPA, because they were the cheapest, and it would take less than two weeks
to get it (nobody, not even the dealers, stocked it). Well, now I need
another, and will probably order two just so I'll have it, but is there a
place I can find them for less then $20?

Second, the directions I had off the net said to put on the spring
compressor while the shock was still on the car, and dismantle it and take
it out piece by piece. Sounded easy, but in reality took me most of the
afternoon to do. Was there something I might have missed? I'm unsure if I'll
be able to reverse the procedure without ruining the shock, the boot, or
something else, for all the pulling and prying I had to do.

Tonyrama

tonyrama wrote:
> Ok, so I've been talking for the last couple of years about doing my shocks,
> and this year I fianlly had the money to do it. I went back and forth on
> doing it myself, but in the end I decided to do it.
>
> So I did the rears with not too much trouble, except that I had to wait for
> a shock boot to be ordered. I had checked them before hand, and they seemed
> fine, but the driver's side one was shreaded. So I got it all back together,
> and it's all good.
>
> I didn't get around to the front till today, and it was a miserable time. I
> had quite a time getting it out, and I'm unsure if I'll be able to get it
> back in all right.
>
> My first question is, I read most everything I could find on miata.net on
> this, and it seemed to suggest that there was a place to find shock boots
> for $7. Well, the prices I got were $20 to almost $60. The local dealers
> were not even sure it could be gotten seprerate from the shock, and they
> said they'd never had to order one before. I ended up ordering one through
> NAPA, because they were the cheapest, and it would take less than two weeks
> to get it (nobody, not even the dealers, stocked it). Well, now I need
> another, and will probably order two just so I'll have it, but is there a
> place I can find them for less then $20?
>
> Second, the directions I had off the net said to put on the spring
> compressor while the shock was still on the car, and dismantle it and take
> it out piece by piece. Sounded easy, but in reality took me most of the
> afternoon to do. Was there something I might have missed? I'm unsure if I'll
> be able to reverse the procedure without ruining the shock, the boot, or
> something else, for all the pulling and prying I had to do.
>
> Tonyrama
>
>

$20.00 is roughly the cheapest I have seen for shock boots, either
through Mazda South or Trussville Mazda. Your dealer does not seem to
know much about the car, did you talk to a salesperson or a mechanic?

I preferred to take the springs off after removing the entire assembly
from the car. The rears are extremely easy, the fronts are much less so,
as you have learned. Breaking the steering ball joint loose makes things
much easier to remove and install for the front shocks, but I was
hesitant to do this, so I ended up working the entire assembly in and
out by myself.
It was a nightmare job, but it would have probably been much easier
with a helper to push down on the suspension parts while I worked it
into place. If and when I do another shock job, I will go ahead and
break the steering ball joint loose. That leaves enough room to work the
shock/spring assembly out without too much effort.

Finally, make sure you put the plastic shims back in, and then check
again. I missed one, but luckily it was on a rear shock.

HTH,

Pat

In article >, "tonyrama" >
wrote:

> Second, the directions I had off the net said to put on the spring
> compressor while the shock was still on the car, and dismantle it and take
> it out piece by piece.

Wrong directions. I used these (careful of the line break):

http://www.flyinmiata.com/techline/o...20is%20my%20ve
rsion

This is the "Bigger Hammer" method. It involves liberating the upper
balljoint assembly from the upright, but NOT separating the balljoint
itself (contrary to mass misconception). It requires a hefty hammer and
a couple of new cotterpins, but no special tools, and is probably the
fastest method and the least amoint of work.

Working alone with no lift or air tools, I swapped my shocks in about 4
hours. That included drilling out the mounts for Konis, and taking
several breaks indoors (the garage was about 95F). I used a length of
rebar as a lever to hold the A-arms down--I sat on it, so both hands
were free--but a 2x4 would do as well. The majority of the time and
effort went into turning the bolts on the spring compressor. Next time,
I would remove all four units and take them to a machine shop to have
the springs swapped over. It would save at least an hour, even after the
trip.

---
Lanny Chambers
'94C, St. Louis
http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html

check out my website dood I made some custom suspension from 99' civic
coilovers for my miata with koni shocks http://enorym.com the bottem link is
for my miata http://atomicinternet.homeip.net/xtra/myrone/miata/ the car is
alot further now but that was it about 2 weeks ago.

--
Enorym
http://www.enorym.com

"tonyrama" > wrote in message
...
> Ok, so I've been talking for the last couple of years about doing my
> shocks,
> and this year I fianlly had the money to do it. I went back and forth on
> doing it myself, but in the end I decided to do it.
>
> So I did the rears with not too much trouble, except that I had to wait
> for
> a shock boot to be ordered. I had checked them before hand, and they
> seemed
> fine, but the driver's side one was shreaded. So I got it all back
> together,
> and it's all good.
>
> I didn't get around to the front till today, and it was a miserable time.
> I
> had quite a time getting it out, and I'm unsure if I'll be able to get it
> back in all right.
>
> My first question is, I read most everything I could find on miata.net on
> this, and it seemed to suggest that there was a place to find shock boots
> for $7. Well, the prices I got were $20 to almost $60. The local dealers
> were not even sure it could be gotten seprerate from the shock, and they
> said they'd never had to order one before. I ended up ordering one through
> NAPA, because they were the cheapest, and it would take less than two
> weeks
> to get it (nobody, not even the dealers, stocked it). Well, now I need
> another, and will probably order two just so I'll have it, but is there a
> place I can find them for less then $20?
>
> Second, the directions I had off the net said to put on the spring
> compressor while the shock was still on the car, and dismantle it and take
> it out piece by piece. Sounded easy, but in reality took me most of the
> afternoon to do. Was there something I might have missed? I'm unsure if
> I'll
> be able to reverse the procedure without ruining the shock, the boot, or
> something else, for all the pulling and prying I had to do.
>
> Tonyrama
>
>

I think the others guys have about covered it,
I agree that clamping the springs is best done with the shocks out it is a
bit of a nightmare job, just take your time and don't rush and you will be
fine, the first time I did it I spread it over 2 days, as I only have one
usable arm you have to plan even simple things like the Sway bar bolts, but
now I am at about the 4 hour mark like Lanny.
And like Lanny said I also found the Flyin Miata procedure the best.

Not really sure how much you researched, but are you aware there are 2 types
of bump stops?
NA01-28-111 Old type
N021-34-111 New type
According to http://www.virkki.com/jyri/miata/bumps.html 90-93 used the old
types, 94+ used old rear new front except special models that used new all
round.
Not sure on the parts numbers, but the bump stops I fitted to my KYB's, were
completely different at the rear.

Cheers Mark.


"Myrone Bagalay" > wrote in message
...
> check out my website dood I made some custom suspension from 99' civic
> coilovers for my miata with koni shocks http://enorym.com the bottem link
> is for my miata http://atomicinternet.homeip.net/xtra/myrone/miata/ the
> car is alot further now but that was it about 2 weeks ago.
>
> --
> Enorym
> http://www.enorym.com
>
> "tonyrama" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Ok, so I've been talking for the last couple of years about doing my
>> shocks,
>> and this year I fianlly had the money to do it. I went back and forth on
>> doing it myself, but in the end I decided to do it.
>>
>> So I did the rears with not too much trouble, except that I had to wait
>> for
>> a shock boot to be ordered. I had checked them before hand, and they
>> seemed
>> fine, but the driver's side one was shreaded. So I got it all back
>> together,
>> and it's all good.
>>
>> I didn't get around to the front till today, and it was a miserable time.
>> I
>> had quite a time getting it out, and I'm unsure if I'll be able to get it
>> back in all right.
>>
>> My first question is, I read most everything I could find on miata.net on
>> this, and it seemed to suggest that there was a place to find shock boots
>> for $7. Well, the prices I got were $20 to almost $60. The local dealers
>> were not even sure it could be gotten seprerate from the shock, and they
>> said they'd never had to order one before. I ended up ordering one
>> through
>> NAPA, because they were the cheapest, and it would take less than two
>> weeks
>> to get it (nobody, not even the dealers, stocked it). Well, now I need
>> another, and will probably order two just so I'll have it, but is there a
>> place I can find them for less then $20?
>>
>> Second, the directions I had off the net said to put on the spring
>> compressor while the shock was still on the car, and dismantle it and
>> take
>> it out piece by piece. Sounded easy, but in reality took me most of the
>> afternoon to do. Was there something I might have missed? I'm unsure if
>> I'll
>> be able to reverse the procedure without ruining the shock, the boot, or
>> something else, for all the pulling and prying I had to do.
>>
>> Tonyrama
>>
>>
>
>

> Finally, make sure you put the plastic shims back in, and then check
> again. I missed one, but luckily it was on a rear shock.
>
> HTH,
>
> Pat


What's the deal with the plastic shims, anyway? I couldn't see that they
were actually doing anything.

I was having the same thoughts, and misgivings about the ball joints. I
might do it on the other side. I have to wait till Wednesday for new boots
to come, so I have time.

Tonyrama

> Wrong directions. I used these (careful of the line break):
>
>
http://www.flyinmiata.com/techline/o...20my%20version
>
> This is the "Bigger Hammer" method. It involves liberating the upper
> balljoint assembly from the upright, but NOT separating the balljoint
> itself (contrary to mass misconception). It requires a hefty hammer and
> a couple of new cotterpins, but no special tools, and is probably the
> fastest method and the least amoint of work.
>
> Working alone with no lift or air tools, I swapped my shocks in about 4
> hours. That included drilling out the mounts for Konis, and taking
> several breaks indoors (the garage was about 95F). I used a length of
> rebar as a lever to hold the A-arms down--I sat on it, so both hands
> were free--but a 2x4 would do as well. The majority of the time and
> effort went into turning the bolts on the spring compressor. Next time,
> I would remove all four units and take them to a machine shop to have
> the springs swapped over. It would save at least an hour, even after the
> trip.

I stood on it, crouched down, with one hand under the fender and the other
through the shock-mount hole. Not fun at all for sure.

Thanks for the link

Tonyrama

"gixer" > wrote in message
...
> I think the others guys have about covered it,
> I agree that clamping the springs is best done with the shocks out it is a
> bit of a nightmare job, just take your time and don't rush and you will be
> fine, the first time I did it I spread it over 2 days, as I only have one
> usable arm you have to plan even simple things like the Sway bar bolts,
but
> now I am at about the 4 hour mark like Lanny.
> And like Lanny said I also found the Flyin Miata procedure the best.


Altogether, so far, I'd say I was up at maybe three hours, or four. I did
the rears, and then I drove it again for a week or so before I had a chance
to do the front.
>
> Not really sure how much you researched, but are you aware there are 2
types
> of bump stops?
> NA01-28-111 Old type
> N021-34-111 New type

I don't know what I got, but they asked for the year of the car, so probably
the old type. Although, the one I got didn't look much like the old one. It
had a white bump stop and a seperate plastic boot. Seemed to work ok though.

Tonyrama

tonyrama wrote:


>
>
> What's the deal with the plastic shims, anyway? I couldn't see that they
> were actually doing anything.
>
> I was having the same thoughts, and misgivings about the ball joints. I
> might do it on the other side. I have to wait till Wednesday for new boots
> to come, so I have time.
>
> Tonyrama
>
>

I agree that it doesn't look like they are doing anything, but I was
told that there would be sqeaking if they were not installed. I drove my
car for about 3 days with one missing from a rear shock and never heard
anything, but went ahead and put it back on anyway.

Pat

Lanny Chambers wrote:

> In article >, "tonyrama" >
> wrote:
>
>
>>Second, the directions I had off the net said to put on the spring
>>compressor while the shock was still on the car, and dismantle it and take
>>it out piece by piece.
>
>
> Wrong directions. I used these (careful of the line break):
>
> http://www.flyinmiata.com/techline/o...20is%20my%20ve
> rsion
>
> This is the "Bigger Hammer" method. It involves liberating the upper
> balljoint assembly from the upright, but NOT separating the balljoint
> itself (contrary to mass misconception). It requires a hefty hammer and
> a couple of new cotterpins, but no special tools, and is probably the
> fastest method and the least amoint of work.
>
> Working alone with no lift or air tools, I swapped my shocks in about 4
> hours. That included drilling out the mounts for Konis, and taking
> several breaks indoors (the garage was about 95F). I used a length of
> rebar as a lever to hold the A-arms down--I sat on it, so both hands
> were free--but a 2x4 would do as well. The majority of the time and
> effort went into turning the bolts on the spring compressor. Next time,
> I would remove all four units and take them to a machine shop to have
> the springs swapped over. It would save at least an hour, even after the
> trip.
>
> ---
> Lanny Chambers
> '94C, St. Louis
> http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html

Sitting on a lever to hold down the A-arm would have saved me a lot of
time. I don't know why I didn't think of that.

Still, since I was able to install the shocks without taking off the
balljoint assembly while balancing on one foot, holding down the A-arm
with the other foot and fitting the shocks in by depressing the piston
with one hand and fitting it into the upper mount with the other hand,
it seems like it would be fairly easy to do using your method of sitting
on a lever but without a need to release the ball joint assembly.
Depressing the piston and fitting it under the fender and into the upper
mount doesn't seem like it would have been that difficult if I had been
able to maintain better balance while trying it.

Anyway, thanks for the tip, I will remember it next time, whether I take
the ball joint assembly off or not.

Pat