Bleeder plug on 2.5L engine

I need to flush the cooling system on my 2.5. There is a plug on the
thermostat housing that can be removed in order to bleed air from the
system.

I hear that these seize over time, so I will put anti-seize compound on
it when I re-install it.

Any suggestions for removing it, without stripping out the allen hex?
Does liquid wrench or any other simliar product improve the odds of
getting it loose?

Thanks,

-KM

Won't hurt at all to try some spray lube. You can also try an old -time
trick, but CAUTION when removing the screw, as the fluid is hot and
under some pressure. Just run the engine until hot, that heats the
screw and should make it easier to turn. But, as said, be very careful
with removal when hot.


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My 2.5 doesn't have a coolant bleeder, but my 2.7L does. On the 2.7L
the bleeder installed in a plastic water outlet and the bleeder will
turn inside the plastic outlet and create a leak which happened to me.
I was able to negotiate the price down from $106 to $76. On the 2.7L
you have to remove the upper intake manifold to replace the water
outlet, thus ALLDATA calls for 1.8 hours of labor to change it out.

The 2.7L water outlet has a heater hose, the radiator return and the
bleeder valve all interconnected without any check valves or flow
restriction. Thus, I installed a Prestone coolant backflow flush kit
to the heater hose. I don't think I can really back flush but it does
allow me to "open the heater hose" and bleed thru it rather than using
the bleeder valve. They are both at the highest point in the system.

Your 2.5L might have a similar spot you could do the same thing. Just
an idea.

If you are not familar with the Prestone coolant backflow kit you can
look at them at any Wal-mart of probably any autoparts store.




On Jan 24, 9:28 am, " > wrote:
> I need to flush the cooling system on my 2.5. There is a plug on the
> thermostat housing that can be removed in order to bleed air from the
> system.
>
> I hear that these seize over time, so I will put anti-seize compound on
> it when I re-install it.
>
> Any suggestions for removing it, without stripping out the allen hex?
> Does liquid wrench or any other simliar product improve the odds of
> getting it loose?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -KM

This is the 2.5 4 cylinder, as opposed to the V-6. I checked, and it
does
have the bleeder plug.

I can't imagine the water outlet being made of plastic on the 2.7. It
was
probably an attempt to save a few bucks.

The more I hear about the 2.7, I don't want one.

-KM

On Jan 24, 10:12 am, "Mark3571" > wrote:
> My 2.5 doesn't have a coolant bleeder, but my 2.7L does. On the 2.7L
> the bleeder installed in a plastic water outlet and the bleeder will
> turn inside the plastic outlet and create a leak which happened to me.
> I was able to negotiate the price down from $106 to $76. On the 2.7L
> you have to remove the upper intake manifold to replace the water
> outlet, thus ALLDATA calls for 1.8 hours of labor to change it out.
>
> The 2.7L water outlet has a heater hose, the radiator return and the
> bleeder valve all interconnected without any check valves or flow
> restriction. Thus, I installed a Prestone coolant backflow flush kit
> to the heater hose. I don't think I can really back flush but it does
> allow me to "open the heater hose" and bleed thru it rather than using
> the bleeder valve. They are both at the highest point in the system.
>
> Your 2.5L might have a similar spot you could do the same thing. Just
> an idea.
>
> If you are not familar with the Prestone coolant backflow kit you can
> look at them at any Wal-mart of probably any autoparts store.
>
> On Jan 24, 9:28 am, " > wrote:
>
>
>
> > I need to flush the cooling system on my 2.5. There is a plug on the
> > thermostat housing that can be removed in order to bleed air from the
> > system.
>
> > I hear that these seize over time, so I will put anti-seize compound on
> > it when I re-install it.
>
> > Any suggestions for removing it, without stripping out the allen hex?
> > Does liquid wrench or any other simliar product improve the odds of
> > getting it loose?
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > -KM- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> I need to flush the cooling system on my 2.5. There is a plug on the
> thermostat housing that can be removed in order to bleed air from the
> system.
>
> I hear that these seize over time, so I will put anti-seize compound on
> it when I re-install it.
>
> Any suggestions for removing it, without stripping out the allen hex?
> Does liquid wrench or any other simliar product improve the odds of
> getting it loose?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -KM
>

If the allen screw is stripped due to the soft metal used, just loosen the
coolant temp sensor on the right side of the thermostat housing, while you
fill the engine the air will come out thru that.

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

On Jan 24, 3:14 pm, "maxpower" > wrote:
> > wrote in ooglegroups.com...
>
> > I need to flush the cooling system on my 2.5. There is a plug on the
> > thermostat housing that can be removed in order to bleed air from the
> > system.
>
> > I hear that these seize over time, so I will put anti-seize compound on
> > it when I re-install it.
>
> > Any suggestions for removing it, without stripping out the allen hex?
> > Does liquid wrench or any other simliar product improve the odds of
> > getting it loose?
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > -KMIf the allen screw is stripped due to the soft metal used, just loosen the
> coolant temp sensor on the right side of the thermostat housing, while you
> fill the engine the air will come out thru that.
>
> Glenn Beasley
> Chrysler Tech

Thanks to all that responded on this. Last night, I soaked the plug
with Liquid Wrench, and warmed it up. The plug was a little tough to
break loose, but it finally did. I am now ready for the system flush.
Turns out that there is another plug on the right side of the housing,
next to the fan sensor. That would have been my second option.

-Kirk