1993 SC-2 Power Window Won't Close

I have a 1993 SC-2 with power windows. Just recently, my passenger's side
window started closing slowly (it seems fine when opening) and then totally
refused to close today. For now, I just want to get the window closed so
that I don't get soaked in the rain and will fix it correctly eventually.
Any suggestions for both the short and long term fixes (beyond the plastic
bag and duct tape method)?

Short term - remove the outer door panel (mostly torx fasteners, and easy
with any Haynes/Chilton manual guiding you) and check the motor's connector
for power. If no power, add a jumper temporarily to get it power and force
it to the up position and troubleshoot the electrical system further (I'm
assuming you checked all the fuses and relays already).

Long term - fix the electrical, or replace the motor/regulator assembly
which is most likely the problem. I may have a motor/regulator assembly in
my parts bin that I'd send you for cheap if you don't mind buying used. If
you're interested, drop me an e-mail at the address below. There's a lot of
other parts for sale on my website as well.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
---
Visit my Saturn Car Audio and Performance Page at http://www.evilplastic.com



"MPost" > wrote in message
...
> I have a 1993 SC-2 with power windows. Just recently, my passenger's side
> window started closing slowly (it seems fine when opening) and then
totally
> refused to close today. For now, I just want to get the window closed so
> that I don't get soaked in the rain and will fix it correctly eventually.
> Any suggestions for both the short and long term fixes (beyond the plastic
> bag and duct tape method)?
>
>

Lane,

Thanks for the info and the offer. I may take you up on the motor/regulator.
Let me do some exploratory surgery first and see what's going on.

I'm pretty sure it's not a fuse/relay since I can still get the window to go
further down, but just can't get it to go up.

"Lane" > wrote in message
...
> Short term - remove the outer door panel (mostly torx fasteners, and easy
> with any Haynes/Chilton manual guiding you) and check the motor's
> connector
> for power. If no power, add a jumper temporarily to get it power and
> force
> it to the up position and troubleshoot the electrical system further (I'm
> assuming you checked all the fuses and relays already).
>
> Long term - fix the electrical, or replace the motor/regulator assembly
> which is most likely the problem. I may have a motor/regulator assembly
> in
> my parts bin that I'd send you for cheap if you don't mind buying used.
> If
> you're interested, drop me an e-mail at the address below. There's a lot
> of
> other parts for sale on my website as well.
>
> Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
> ---
> Visit my Saturn Car Audio and Performance Page at
> http://www.evilplastic.com
>
>
>
> "MPost" > wrote in message
> ...
>> I have a 1993 SC-2 with power windows. Just recently, my passenger's side
>> window started closing slowly (it seems fine when opening) and then
> totally
>> refused to close today. For now, I just want to get the window closed so
>> that I don't get soaked in the rain and will fix it correctly eventually.
>> Any suggestions for both the short and long term fixes (beyond the
>> plastic
>> bag and duct tape method)?
>>
>>
>
>

don't know if this helps, my 95 SC-2 window open/close problem
turned-out to be the window switch, not the motor.

S_H

Just today I replaced the window motor/regulator in my driver door on
my '92 SL2. The window would go up about 6 inches and then stop. A few
minutes later it would go up another 6 inches and so on. But if I
pushed up the window while someone else pushed the button, I could get
it to go all the way up.

Once you get the outer door skin off, it is amazing how easy it is to
work inside the door compared to a typical car.

Look he http://current.net/james1549/anythingoes/SATURN.jpg

The new window motor/regulator assembly was $85 at Saturn. It is a "new
and improved" design, so the entire assembly must be replaced as one.

Be sure to have this tool in hand before you start.
http://current.net/james1549/anythingoes/OTC7827.jpg.
Without it, it is nearly impossible to do the job. I had to borrow it.

What does the tool do and where about is it applied? Just
curious, as that seems to be a tool I've never seen in the
general auto repair places. Can't get by with a couple crossed
rods or pins?

James1549 wrote:
> Just today I replaced the window motor/regulator in my driver door on
> my '92 SL2. The window would go up about 6 inches and then stop. A few
> minutes later it would go up another 6 inches and so on. But if I
> pushed up the window while someone else pushed the button, I could get
> it to go all the way up.
>
> Once you get the outer door skin off, it is amazing how easy it is to
> work inside the door compared to a typical car.
>
> Look he http://current.net/james1549/anythingoes/SATURN.jpg
>
> The new window motor/regulator assembly was $85 at Saturn. It is a "new
> and improved" design, so the entire assembly must be replaced as one.
>
> Be sure to have this tool in hand before you start.
> http://current.net/james1549/anythingoes/OTC7827.jpg.
> Without it, it is nearly impossible to do the job. I had to borrow it.
>
>
>

The tool removes the special large-headed screw fasteners which connect the
bottom of the window to the regulator assembly. I have been able remove
several with a lot of penetrant, a good needlenose pliers, and a visegrips.
It wasn't fun, but it is possible without the tool.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
---
Visit my Saturn Car Audio and Performance Page at http://www.evilplastic.com



> wrote in message
...
> What does the tool do and where about is it applied? Just
> curious, as that seems to be a tool I've never seen in the
> general auto repair places. Can't get by with a couple crossed
> rods or pins?
>
> James1549 wrote:
> > Just today I replaced the window motor/regulator in my driver door on
> > my '92 SL2. The window would go up about 6 inches and then stop. A few
> > minutes later it would go up another 6 inches and so on. But if I
> > pushed up the window while someone else pushed the button, I could get
> > it to go all the way up.
> >
> > Once you get the outer door skin off, it is amazing how easy it is to
> > work inside the door compared to a typical car.
> >
> > Look he http://current.net/james1549/anythingoes/SATURN.jpg
> >
> > The new window motor/regulator assembly was $85 at Saturn. It is a "new
> > and improved" design, so the entire assembly must be replaced as one.
> >
> > Be sure to have this tool in hand before you start.
> > http://current.net/james1549/anythingoes/OTC7827.jpg.
> > Without it, it is nearly impossible to do the job. I had to borrow it.
> >
> >
> >

After reading this, I think I'm hoping I won't ever have to end
up doing this one for awhile! Thanks for the info.......

Lane wrote:
> The tool removes the special large-headed screw fasteners which connect the
> bottom of the window to the regulator assembly. I have been able remove
> several with a lot of penetrant, a good needlenose pliers, and a visegrips.
> It wasn't fun, but it is possible without the tool.
>
> Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
> ---
> Visit my Saturn Car Audio and Performance Page at http://www.evilplastic.com
>
>
>
> > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>What does the tool do and where about is it applied? Just
>>curious, as that seems to be a tool I've never seen in the
>>general auto repair places. Can't get by with a couple crossed
>>rods or pins?
>>
>>James1549 wrote:
>>
>>>Just today I replaced the window motor/regulator in my driver door on
>>>my '92 SL2. The window would go up about 6 inches and then stop. A few
>>>minutes later it would go up another 6 inches and so on. But if I
>>>pushed up the window while someone else pushed the button, I could get
>>>it to go all the way up.
>>>
>>>Once you get the outer door skin off, it is amazing how easy it is to
>>>work inside the door compared to a typical car.
>>>
>>>Look he http://current.net/james1549/anythingoes/SATURN.jpg
>>>
>>>The new window motor/regulator assembly was $85 at Saturn. It is a "new
>>>and improved" design, so the entire assembly must be replaced as one.
>>>
>>>Be sure to have this tool in hand before you start.
>>>http://current.net/james1549/anythingoes/OTC7827.jpg.
>>>Without it, it is nearly impossible to do the job. I had to borrow it.
>>>

>>>
>
>
>

Sorry but I bent 4 drift punches trying what you said. Vice grips &
channel locks both together wouldn't touch it. Mine had lock-tight on
the threads and were so tight that even with the socket, I thought I
may break the glass. That tool was the only thing that would work on
mine, I know I spent an evening stuck because of those nuts.

James

And another thing that will help your window motors last longer... Use
spray silicone with a straw and spray the heck out of your window felt
tracks. Let the silicone run down the felt track to where it is not
exposed. Making that window go up and down easier will take a lot of
stress off the electric motor.

When I had the door skin off, I sprayed down the track real good, now
it works just like new.

James