Jim, thanks for the reply. My case is an AWD case, no 4 low or engage motor
involved. I think the repair would be similar, and if I do it I will get
the manual. I'm not sure its the chain I hear now though as I have posted
in a few other forums and gotten different theories. I'd be interested to
hear your diagnosis of this noise. It's a clicking noise when I go straight
slowly, and more like a grinding or growling noise as I turn a tight radius
slowly, and has gotten worse of the years. At highway speeds I don't hear
anything. I replaced the CV joints / axles, because some people were "sure"
that was the problem but the noise persists. Now, I had someone suggest I
remove the drive shaft, which I did, and the noise goes away. With the
drive shaft on the bench, all the universals "seem" to be free and smooth.
If one was binding, I would think I found the problem. A rebuilt drive
shaft is about $200. I already replaced the front axles, seemingly for
nothing. I don't mind making either repair, the T-case ot the drive shaft.
I just want to make the right repair this time. Any thoughts on this are
appreciated.

Bill



"Jim Warman" > wrote in message
news:ne8Oi.12977$JA3.9342@edtnps89...
> First - a word of caution... Some electrical concerns with the
> control-trac system can be mistaken as a "loose chain" concern. The drive
> chain can be checked for "slop" without removing or disassembling the
> transfer case.... Place the system in 4LOW to lock the transfer case....
> With the car in park, raise the front wheels clear of the ground (use jack
> stands, of course) and rotate the driveshaft to the front diff back and
> forth.... This is a bit of an "acquired taste" and there is no real spec
> other than sound judgement - Usually (memory thing here) I see anywhere up
> to almost 1/8th turn of the shaft in a good T-case.... I believe that you
> will see well over 1/4 turn before things are loose enough for the chain
> to skip over the sprockets under heavy torque....
>
> Having said that, once you get the T-case on the bench, you will need a
> 30mm socket and a pair of lock ring pliers ( similar to these
> http://www.stridetool.com/tools/reta...pliers_06.html ) at
> the very least. This will be about a 7 on a scale of one to ten......
>
> Remove the front output flange nut first before splitting the case....
> Also, to remove the shift motor, the electrical connector will need to be
> partially disassembled - this is not a difficult step but it is too easy
> to break plastic parts.... There is a plastic retainer clip inside the
> connector that is removed with needlenose pliers.... look closely inside
> the connector and you will see a little plastic tang holding the wire
> connection in place... using a seal pick or straightened out paper clip,
> gently pry that tang away from the wire and pull the wire fom the
> connector. I think you will be removing more that one wire so be sure to
> note the colour/location of each wire.
>
> Once you separate the case halves, the rest should be fairly apparent.
> Work with purpose - taking digital photos as you progress can help. There
> are three balls on a cam ring located between the clutch housing (the one
> the electric clutch coil reacts with) and the clutch pack - do not let
> these balls "escape". Once you get the clutch pack out, the drive
> sprocket, chain and front output shaft lift out as a group. Now is a good
> time to inspect the clutch pack friction members.... and replace is
> necessary - look for any discolouration that might indicate overheat and
> look for abnormal wear patterns.
>
> Carefully inspect the drive and driven sprockets for wear.... The teeth on
> the sprockets should be smooth. If these show distinct wear patterns, the
> transfer case may be noisy or this wear may affect the service life of the
> new chain....
>
> Now you are this far into it, this would be the ideal time to clean or
> replace the oil pump pick up screen, inspect and clean the magnet and
> inspect (or, if a hi-miler, even consider replacing) the oil pump.....
> There is a locating or "anti spin" lug on the oil pump that engages a boss
> on the inside of the front case half.... I don't recall seeing concerns
> with the 4404/4405 cases but I have seen the lug on the oil pump wear
> right through the boss inside the case on some transfer cases (usually
> F150, IIRC).
>
> Considering the scope of the project and the chances for things to go not
> quite as smoothly as planned, this may be an good opportunity to try a one
> use subscription at
> http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...&menuIndex1=41
> or similar.
>
> Of course, you must remember that I'm both a dealer tech and I've been
> doing this for many years. People only ever pay me to disassemble things
> once.... (and here comes the sarcastic dig) - however, there are those
> here that feel doing something right and doing it only once are something
> to be avoided if we can save a nickel and enjoy the project many times
> over. Perhaps one of these kind folks could step up to the plate and let
> us both know the ideal spot on your T-case and we can let everyone have a
> crack at wailing on it with a hammer....
>
>
>