Pipe to clutch slave cylinder is fitted with compression fittings
which were rusty but moved freely with a little WD40. It is a ~$10
dealer part but the two dealers I called don't stock it.

Replaced the leaking slave, bled with one of those do-it-yourself
brake bleeding kits, flushed the whole systems a couple times over,
and voila! Clutch feels mint. Just waiting for the master cylinder
to go.

How do I ajdust the clutch pedal freeplay?

Darryl.

>I'm finally getting to the '95 Accord...turns out that the slave
>cylinder is leaking--the master is dry as can be. First off, I
>accidentally picked up parts for a '96--IIRC, the body type changed in
>'96--did the tranny components as well? i.e., will a slave from a '96
>fit the '95 (visually it looks like a fit)?
>
>Secondly, leading up to the slave is a hard plastic line. When I back
>off on the line leading to the slave, I'm guessing it'll crack.
>Dealer item? Is it heat shrinkable or something?
>
>Finally, is there a clutch pedal freeplay adjustment on the '95s?
>
>TIA!
>Darryl.
>
>>>A friend of mine has a '95 Accord with what sounds like a hydraulic
>>>clutch..."the" fluid is leaking so she fills it as required, however,
>>>she drove it without fluid over the weekend. Topped it up this
>>>morning and the clutch doesn't disengage. She can start the car in
>>>neutral but she can't put it into any gear. When the car is off, she
>>>can put the car in gear and when she tries to start it with the clutch
>>>pedal depressed (i.e., clutch should be disengaged), the car lurches
>>>and stalls.
>>>
>>>Bad cable?
>>>
>>>TIA!
>>
>>
>>Bad clutch master cylinder and possibly slave cylinder, but master
>>generally goes first.
>>
>>Easy to change? I just did one on a 97 which is the same setup. Not
>>too hard but helps if you are small, wirey and have little hands. On
>>the 95 nuts that hold the master cylinder are on the inside. Plus
>>there is a cotter pin that has to be removed to disconnect the piston
>>rod from the clutch pedal bracket.
>>
>>Steps are.
>>
>>Disconnect the fluid line, remove the cotter pin holding the rod, back
>>off the two nuts on the inside firewall that hold the cylinder on, go
>>back in reverse order with a new/rebuilt cylinder, fill and bleed.
>>the bleeder valve is at the slave cylinder location.