On 05/28/2012 10:35 AM, Tegger wrote:
> "Douglas C. > wrote in
> :
>
>> On 5/27/12 2:21 PM, Tegger wrote:
>
>>>
>>> Do NOT use dry graphite as a lock lubricant.
>>>
>>
>> I thought those dry powdered graphite-packed syringes were a
>> locksmith's first response for sticky keyways/tumblers??
>>
>
>
>
> Ordinarily, I guess they would be. The problem with car locks -- and what
> makes them different -- is that they pick up a lot of water, and water
> that's sometimes mixed with salt.

and none of that has anything to do with "lightness" of "oil".


>
> Automakers install a little metal door in the key slot in an attempt at
> keeping out most of the water. It does work against dust and dirt, but each
> time you push the key into a wet lock, you push some water into the lock.
> Locks are made of corrodable metals. Over time, corrosion makes the
> tumblers stick in their sliding-recesses. This eventually causes the
> tumblers to stop sliding, and either 1) the key won't go in, or 2) it won't
> come out, or 3) it won't turn.

actually, the metals in door locks are fairly inert. their problem is
that they're soft and they wear rather than corrode.


>
> In addition to all that, the tiny spring that holds the flap closed tends
> to break. And at that point the flap hangs open and allows /everything/
> inside.

the spring is usually fairly reliable. if your "flap" is stuck open,
the chances are, some kind fellow with a screwdriver has just "adjusted"
your door lock for you as they attempted to help you empty the glove box
and give you a reason to buy a new stereo.


>
> Graphite is meant to lubricate locks that are always DRY, or which have a
> chance to dry out if wet, such as house locks. If you live in Arizona,
> graphite will work for you. Otherwise, graphite in an automotive lock tends
> to form a slurry with the water, making it take even longer to evaporate,
> and letting it corrode the metal parts even more. Graphite does not prevent
> corrosion.

tegger, the "slurry" is wear product from the soft die-cast cylinder and
soft brass tumblers.

in case you were to be interested [???] anyone can considerably extend
the life of their door locks by carefully inserting the key and allowing
it to self-position laterally before exerting any rotation force to it.
but for most people with all kinds of surplus crap on their key ring,
that's never going to happen and locks are going to wear quickly.


>
> Lock Ease, probably the most popular lubricant meant specifically for
> locks, isn't really a good choice for automotive locks used in snowy
> climates. You need an oily substance, not a graphite-y substance. Some will
> tell you not to use an oil on account of dust, but that warning is not
> applicable to car locks.

graphite doesn't freeze tegger - that's why it's ideal for automotive locks.


>
> I have found that a substance called "Rust Check",

completely bogus. the lock cylinder is die-cast [predominantly zinc],
the tumblers are brass, and the return springs are stainless [very high
quality too i may add - it prevents them fatiguing and breaking - what
people really don't like to happen in locks]. none of them "rust".


> which is apparently sold
> only in Ontario, Canada, works the best. But then it never gets much below
> -10F where I live. A very similar substance is sold under the Carwell brand
> in New York State. The OP's problem is that he's in an area subject to
> extremley low temperatures, so he needs an oil even lighter than the one
> used by Carwell. A gun-shop or sewing-machine shop may be able to help.

just use graphite and be done with it. a good flushing with wd40 first
to float out wear debris won't hurt either - if you don't mind a week of
dirty oil streaks on your car door.


--
nomina rutrum rutrum