On 27/2/20 3:24 pm, delvon daily wrote:
> Xeno wrote:
>
>> Yeah, advice a bit late for your case since your pedal has already been
>> to the floor but worth keeping in mind for future bleeding tasks.
>
> I like to learn so it's good to know. Thanks for letting me know the pedal
> should never go down to the floor on purpose due to the corrosion on the
> end of the rod damaging the master cylinder parts.

In the unused portion of the *cylinder*.
>
>>> I'll use a turkey baster to suck the yellow fluid out of the master
>>> cylinder (leaving just enough old fluid to cover the opening), fill the
>>
>> I have the proper suction pump *dedicated* for that purpose - reduces
>> cross contamination risk. You might want to consider one of the bleeding
>> kits with a one way valve - makes brake bleeding a one man task.
>
> You have a point on the cross contamination which I had not thought of.
> I will get a plastic turkey baster at the dollar store for a buck and then
> I can throw it out afterward (or label it for brake fluid only).
>
> Thanks for the cross contamination heads up.
>
>>> Is that the proper replacement process?
>>>
>> Yes except you should be cracking open the bleeder nipples.
>
> That's what I meant.
>
> I put a 10 inch or so soft hose on the bleeder valve and then into a glass
> jar so I can see the color of the fluid change from yellow to blue.
>
>> Be sure you don't slip up and run
>> short of fluid in the reservoir. Air in the ABS system can be a bugger
>> to remove.
>
> Thanks for the heads up. I don't think this early 2000's econobox car even
> has ABS, but it might have it. I never felt the pulsation though so I don't
> think so. But I'll be careful not to run the master cylinder dry.
>
> I guess that's where the third person can come in handy!
>
> Thanks for your help & advice.
>
No problems. ;-)

--

Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)