Xeno wrote:

> Yeah, advice a bit late for your case since your pedal has already been
> to the floor but worth keeping in mind for future bleeding tasks.

I like to learn so it's good to know. Thanks for letting me know the pedal
should never go down to the floor on purpose due to the corrosion on the
end of the rod damaging the master cylinder parts.

>> I'll use a turkey baster to suck the yellow fluid out of the master
>> cylinder (leaving just enough old fluid to cover the opening), fill the
>
> I have the proper suction pump *dedicated* for that purpose - reduces
> cross contamination risk. You might want to consider one of the bleeding
> kits with a one way valve - makes brake bleeding a one man task.

You have a point on the cross contamination which I had not thought of.
I will get a plastic turkey baster at the dollar store for a buck and then
I can throw it out afterward (or label it for brake fluid only).

Thanks for the cross contamination heads up.

>> Is that the proper replacement process?
>>
> Yes except you should be cracking open the bleeder nipples.

That's what I meant.

I put a 10 inch or so soft hose on the bleeder valve and then into a glass
jar so I can see the color of the fluid change from yellow to blue.

> Be sure you don't slip up and run
> short of fluid in the reservoir. Air in the ABS system can be a bugger
> to remove.

Thanks for the heads up. I don't think this early 2000's econobox car even
has ABS, but it might have it. I never felt the pulsation though so I don't
think so. But I'll be careful not to run the master cylinder dry.

I guess that's where the third person can come in handy!

Thanks for your help & advice.