In article >, HRA (BANDIT2941)
wrote:

> >I wouldn't expect an inexpensive multimeter to make good current readings.
> >Better to use it for measuring voltage. Measure voltage directly at the
> >battery.
> >Engine off - should read about 12V.
> >Cranking - shouldn't go below 8V
> >Idling - about 13.8V
> >Now turn on the blower on high, headlamps on high, A/C and rear window
> >defogger. This should represent the full load on the alternator. Should be
> >able to keep 13.8V at idle though this is a pretty big load and may cause
> >the voltage to sag a bit. You may have to rev the engine a bit and see if
> >it will come back up to 13.8V.
>
> Tuko,
>
> Just to clarify, what Oppie posted is not an actual current test like
> Autozone
> would do. However, it is pretty similar. If the alternator can maintain
> voltage
> with the lights on and blower on high, it should be fine.
>
> That's all I'd do to test my alternator.

There's nothing wrong with the above info, but the "load test" is specifically to see if it's
the alternator causing the problem (because if the voltages aren't right, there are several
possible reasons why). Also, it's possible to have the voltages be correct and yet still have
the alternator not pumping sufficient current. IIRC either the Chilton's or Haynes service
manuals covers the hookup for a load test.

To answer the OP, your multimeter would be capable of reading the current during the load test,
but you'll still need a simulated load. The idea is, during the test, the alternator's output
goes only to the simulated load, and you then measure the current from the alternator.

HTH.