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Old November 30th 04, 05:21 PM
Refinish_King1
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What you need is:

An anaerobic type rust proofing compound. Stripping inside a hidden area
would be suicide to the part. Fiberglass-Evercoat used to make a
rustproofing called: "System 3" Now you'd do fine with Rusfree's 1000-B
Rustproofing, it gets into the tiny nooks and crannies.

It's not undercoating, it's a mixture of urethanes and candle wax, which
adheres well, and will not allow moisture to penetrate to the base primer
that the factory applied on those fenders. Which was a cheap industrial
primer in those days, just to keep the part from oxidizing on the shelf.

Back at that time, we used to have to strip that primer, then coat with
Dupont 70 or 80-S or Ditzler/PPG Acrylic Lacquer Primer. When there were no
such thing as rust proofing, we used to use roof coating, but that too dried
like undercoating and cracked. Only to allow water under it and cause more
rust than if it weren't there at all.

Refinish King



"Nate Nagel" > wrote in message
...
> John Ings wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 14:36:22 -0500, bob > wrote:
>>
>>
>>>>If you want rust protection that really works:
>>>>
>>>>www.por15.com
>>>>
>>>>It's expensive, but classic car restorers swear by it.
>>>
>>>I just saw EFR in JC Whitney that claims to be similar
>>>http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/C...searchbtn.y=19
>>>. Anyone have experience with this?

>>
>>
>> "Ultraviolet-sensitive" and "must be second-coated with any other
>> paint to protect finish from sunlight."
>>
>> That sort of hints that it might be similar. POR-15 is distantly
>> related to crazy-glue. It's a hard plasic that is truly impervious to
>> penetration by water. You would think that paint is waterproof, but it
>> isn't completely so, and even 99% waterproof isn't good enough if
>> you're driving in brine slush.
>>
>> The "must be coated" warning by-the-way, is only about appearance.
>> POR-15 left uncoated and exposed to UV becomes weathered looking and
>> greyish, but its integrity is not compromised. Bonus: POR-15 and
>> fibreglass cloth works as well or better than epoxy
>> and fibreglass cloth.
>>

>
> I'll second all those comments, I've done the 'glass trick too. I guess
> I'm just a little concerned about adhesion to metal that I have no way of
> roughing up, or really prepping any way other than chemically for that
> matter.
>
> nate
>
> --
> replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
> http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel



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