On 07/01/2012 03:59 PM, wrote:
> jim > wrote:
>> i haven't done this job on a 2003, but on other civics, you just remove
>> the brake caliper, then the brake disk, and that gives you enough room
>> to press the stud out.
>
> Well, this didn't turn out well at all.
> It took three different auto parts stores to actually get the stud. They
> all have the Dorman drawers full of studs and nuts, but the Honda part is
> empty in two of them.
>
> I forgot to pick up the impact driver, and whacking a regular screwdriver
> while twisting the shank with a vise grip didn't work.

those so-called "impact drivers" are little better than screwdrivers -
they exert little or no torque in my experience. and they completely
conflict with what was said earlier about brinelling bearings.


> Back to the store
> for the impact driver, which I promptly broke loosening the second screw.

the only reason the screwdriver didn't "do it" was because the polymer
handle wasn't transmitting the blow. see above re brinelling bearings.

the only kind of impact driver to use in this situation is a rotary impact.


>
> Fortunately, I had already asked my neighbor, and while he was visiting
> someone else, he asked them... I had one I could borrow.
>
> Off came the caliper, pads, caliper holding bracket, disk. The disk is
> levered off using the brake hose holding bolt, which is different thread
> pitch than the caliper bolts of the same diameter. The screws that hold
> the disk on could easily have performed the task, if Honda had bothered to
> thread both holes the same.

most of the time, you don't /need/ to lever the disks off. simply
loosening the wheel. driving and hard braking [forward and reverse]
usually does that much better.


> I remember now that the Mazda did that. I thought it was a lug bolt, but
> it wasn't. There were locating pins to hold the wheel in place, because
> they used lug bolts, and those pins both held the drum on, and backed it
> off, when moved to different holes. If Honda had lug bolts, I'd have been
> finished a week ago.
>
>> it's very important to press it out, not hammer it - hammering brinell's
>> the bearings. you can usually rent a press from your local flaps, or
>> you can make one from a socket and a c-clamp. the former is a much
>> easier option.
>
> Using an impact driver without hammering is a bit of a problem,

it's not a real "impact driver" since there's hardly and "drive", it's
merely a glorified punch.


> but I did
> try to press out the stud. There is not enough room between the hub and
> the bearing housing to get anything in there. So I gave it a little whack,
> and it moved, so I gave it another little whack, and it moved, and stopped,
> lodged firmly against the bearing housing. It is not possible to get a
> stud out of this hub while it is in place on the vehicle.
> 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid CVT.

i have to ask, and i'm not trying to diminish the worthiness of diy
repair, but if you observed that "There is not enough room between the
hub and the bearing housing to get anything in there", why did you
proceed to punch the stud? would the fact that the old one didn't have
clearance to be removed not have tipped you off to the possibility of
insertion of a new one being similarly challenged?


>
> Now, I had the stud backed out to the point where the wheel won't turn, and
> there's no way to press or pry it back into place. I had to grind off the
> mangled threads on the stud to get down to some fresh threads, so I could
> put a lug nut on it and pull it back into place.

sounds like you need to disassemble the hub. be prepared to replace the
bearing at the same time. double row ball bearings like this, once
fitted, won't reassemble without damage. better to do it as part of the
stud job than have to come back to it a couple of weeks from now and
disassemble the hub a second time.


--
fact check required