On Wed, 10 Jan 2018 19:52:18 -0000 (UTC), Mad Roger
> wrote:

> On Wed, 10 Jan 2018 14:19:19 -0500,
> Tekkie+AK4- wrote:
>
>> I predicted this would happen...
>
>If simply responding truthfully, and providing referenced facts for my
>response is bothering you, I'll drop out now.
>
>I do thank those who provided advice, and I comprehended *all* the advice,
>all of which was helpful.
>
>Mostly to Clare Snyder, I appreciate his advice, born of experience, where
>he is correct that pretty much any shoe that is OEM quality will work
>unless they lie and, to Clare's point, the specs can lie too.
>
>To Clare's point on the gouges, let's forget about that since the actual
>spec from the manufacturer is almost impossible to find, and all that Clare
>found essentially said zero (where to them, zero is 0.000080", which is
>pretty darn close to zero, I agree).
>
>Besides, my drums are fine so the gouges are just an aside where I merely
>state that finding a manufacturer's spec on them for *rotors* is damn near
>impossible (but it can be done) and when I did that, I was shocked at how
>huge they were (for rotors!). I never found a spec for drums so I'll stick
>with Clare's "zero" for now - which is fine.
>
>Regarding the cylinders, I saw the post of "how would you know", where
>that's a question that is actually insinuating more than it's asking - but
>the direct answer is so simple that everyone already knows it.
>1. Visual inspection
>2. Mechanical inspection
>3. Measurements
>
>That's how you know *anything* needs to be repaired, so the question is
>moot, as you can't do #3 or even much of #2 or #1 without taking it apart
>and if you take it apart, you may as well rebuild it, which is likely what
>I'll do.
>
>Regarding the procedure, I think I have it down now, where all I need to do
>is do it, so there won't be much (if anything) to report back until I buy
>the pads, the repair kit, and do the job.

Pay up your insurance first - this is a third pary vehicle - you need
a commercial garage policy to cover your liability - and as a non
qualified mechanic, good luck getting insurance.
If something goes wrong aznd someone is killed, or worse yet maimed
for life, wheather the brakes actually CAUSED the accident or not, you
will be fighting an expensive lawsuite - even if you win, it will cost
you BIG TIME. -
>
>Thanks for all your advice and help, and please do realize that my only
>differences with Clare are that he trusts certain things more than I do and
>I trust certain things more than he does - but I understand and agree with
>all his points.
>
>I will chide anyone who puts "E" pads or shoes on a vehicle, and I always
>have, since E is the friction coefficient of steel on steel (that's a
>fact).
>
>Nothing wrong with E pads if E is the OEM pad, but if the Oem pad is F, G,
>or H, (most likely F though as G and H are less common), then putting an E
>on is below the manufacturer's spec.
>
ANd yet even police cruisers come from the factory with EE pads -
according to the information you provided.
>The nearest Toyota is 50 miles round trip, so I am on the phone with dealer
>after dealer trying to get just one of them to open up a box to tell me
>what is printed on the shoes. I'll report back what they tell me if I can
>convince one of them to open a box and look.
>
>Thanks! If I don't report back - it will be because I have no new
>information for you. Thanks!