On 09/13/2014 12:46 PM, MoPar Man wrote:
> "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:
>
>> Even if the aftermarket shocks have improved in quality over the
>> years, there still seem to be none available for vehicles with the
>> Performance Handling Package (...)
>
> Suggest you read this thread:
>
> http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=30576
>
> I've summarized it below. Not terribly useful, except it tells you that
> there is no difference (physically) in how php and non-php struts bolt
> up to the car.
>
> Most likely the only difference is the stiffness of the coil spring -
> the php is likely has a larger diameter spring. If you have a good pair
> of calipers and measure the diameter of the coil (the diameter of the
> rod that is twisted to make the coil) I can do the same on the monroe's
> that I have now, and also my originals (which I still have stored
> away). If I remember, this diameter looked to be something like 1/2
> inch or maybe 5/8 inch.
>
> Unless you have some compelling reason to keep the stock stiffness of
> the php (and you like the more jarring or harsh ride quality) then only
> you can decide if it's worth it to combine what-ever parts are available
> from the dealer and aftermarket and your existing struts (maybe top
> bearing and spring) and put together a satisfactory simulation of the
> original php strut.
How well does mixing and matching work? E.g., stiffer sway bar with
not-so-stiff struts? And if I change the front struts for non-PHP ones,
would it be essential to change the rear ones as well?
Looking at a couple of online Mopar vendors' Web sites, I don't see
different kinds of spring insulators/isolators, so why would AutoZone
etc. say that the ones they sell are not for vehicles with the PHP?
> I have a knocking sound (that I can also feel) that is coming from the
> front driver's side tire when I drive over uneven pavement at city
> driving speed. I have replaced:
>
> - right lower control arm
> - right tension strut and strut bushings
> - right wheel bearing
> - right and left front strut assemblies (Monroe Quick Strut)
> - reworked / modified both front swaybar bushings
> - right sway bar end-link (left link is maybe 5 years old)
>
> I suspect that the top strut bearing is where the cause of the knocking
> is, and that perhaps the Monroe quick-struts are somehow faulty. But I
> had this knock previously with the original factory struts (but remember
> that the right-side failed while driving).
>
> The other possible cause are the front sub-frame isolation bushings,
> and/or the engine mounts - neither are something that looks easy to
> replace.
>
> I haven't done anything with the steering arms / tie-rod end links.
> They don't seem to be the cause of the knocking, and I detect no play or
> looseness in steering.
>
> =================
> Q: What is the difference going to be in the struts anyway?
>
> A: The difference is in the dampening. From what I've been told,
> it's a stiffer ride, slightly less forgiving.
>
> Q: Are they physically the same - as in non-PHG struts will bolt
> in to a PHG vehicle?
>
> A: Bolt in Yes, ride quality will be different between the two. As
> our cars age OEM support is going away. Some OEM struts are
> getting harder to get.
>
> Q: So what struts should I get to replace mine?
>
> A: OEM only if you want to maintain ride quality. Aftermarket struts
> and mounts do not have a good track recors around here.
> Some "search" and read recommended. (July 23rd, 2013)
>
> A: Rock Auto had some moog quick struts with PHP or w/o PHP. In
> either case, the bearings and top mounts have to be swapped
> for OEM. so....
>
> A: Technically there is no listing in the aftermarket for front
> struts for PHP and Specials..... If it were me I would install
> the blue Monroe Economatic quick struts. I put these in my
> sons car about 15k ago and have had no issues. Another option
> is OEM. Call Dealer with last 8 of you VIN and then try shopping
> online dealers for better price
>
> =========================
>
>> That means compressing the springs to disassemble and reassemble
>> the strut assembly. Do AutoZone and the like lend tools (e.g.,
>> spring compressors) if one is not buying parts for which the tool
>> is needed?
>
> MacPherson Strut spring compressors are pretty cheap. I bought one for
> $22 a couple years ago, and I see that Harbor Freight sells one for $15.
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/macpher...set-61654.html
I've bought some stuff from Hazard Fraught, but a strut spring
compressor is the kind of thing that could do nasty things if it gave
way while in use.
> That said, I've tried to disassemble my original struts, and while it's
> easy to compress the springs with the compressor, I haven't been able to
> undue the strut nut and actually take the thing apart. But eventually I
> want to, because I want to check out the condition of the top strut
> mounts and bearings and possibly re-use them on the monroe's I have now,
> and see if that makes the knocking go away.
>
> I have the factory service manual for the 300m in PDF format - do you
> want me to give you a link to where you can download it?
I already have the FSM, thanks. Maybe it was from you that I got it before.
Perce