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Old March 22nd 07, 03:49 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
shammysham
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Posts: 3
Default Distributor cap/cover 1997 Civic

On Mar 21, 9:47 pm, Tegger > wrote:
> wrote groups.com:
>
>
>
> > On Mar 21, 8:58 am, Tegger > wrote:
> >> wrote in news:1174466850.112426.49170
> >> @p15g2000hsd.googlegroups.com:

>
> >> > I still cannot figure out what's wrong
> >> > with my car. Long story short, I bought it brand new, never had a
> >> > problem with it, EVER, and then last week it suddenly stopped
> >> > running in the middle of the road! Without warning! Weird, eh?

>
> >> Not "weird". If your spark disappears, the car will not run. You've
> >> never checked for spark, have you?

>
> >> 90% of start problems are ignition-related. Right now yours sounds
> >> like the igniter.

>
> >> > It's not the timing belt (checked), it's not the fuel system
> >> > (checked), and now it's down to ignition...

>
> >> Could have told you that right from the beginning in that other
> >> thread you started then abandoned. 90% of start problems are
> >> ignition-related.

>
> >> Instead of yakkin' it up in here, go do some actual diagnostics
> >> instead. You never know, you might just find your problem.

>
> >> Check out this handy
> >> page:http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html

>
> > Tegger

>
> > I took your advice, thank you; didn't mean to abandon that other
> > thread - new at this discussion board.

>
> > Now, I have checked for spark - there's not. That's why I wanted to
> > know how to take off the distributor cover - I did that too, and it
> > all looks fine - even the rotor seems to be in good shape. Later
> > today I'm supposed to get a multimeter and see what pans out.

>
> > Now, please be gentle, I hope this isn't a stupid question: I spoke
> > to someone at the dealership today, and he said that even though it
> > appeared that the timing belt wasn't broken, it could have 'jumped
> > time' since the engine was in 4th, and a load was applied when it
> > stopped running. Is this an actual possibility, what he's saying,
> > that the belt could still be on there but 'loose'? I'd not read
> > anything on these boards about it and it seemed that he might have
> > less than good motives for coming up with something like that..

>
> > Thanks for your help, again, Tegger, much appreciated.

>
> When a timing belt jumps, it normally does it at the crank pulley. This
> means the camshaft(s) will be out of time, so the ignition will be off as
> well. You'll likely still get spark at the plugs, but it may be weak.
>
> There are only two ways to make sure it's not the belt:
> 1) Hook up timing light to #1 plug and crank. Check timing at crank pulley.
> Timing should be between TDC and the group of three marks.
> 2) Remove valve cover. Crank engine over by hand (COUNTER-clockwise) with a
> 19mm socket and ratchet until #1 piston is at TDC compression. Cam marks
> should then be lined up. If they're way off, the belt has jumped.
>
> If the timing belt is OK (and I suspect it is), you need to take a logical
> route backwards from the plugs. If you followed my advice on how to check
> for spark and didn't see any at the plugs, then you need to find out why.
>
> The first thing to check is your tachometer, if you have one. If you crank
> and the tach needle is dead-still, then the igniter is bad. If the tach
> needle bounces a bit, then it's probably the coil that's died.
>
> If you don't have a tach, you need use a multimeter and backprobe the blue
> wire at the distributor connector. While cranking, the multimeter should
> show voltage at the blue wire. If it does, the igniter is fine. If it does
> not, the igniter is dead.
>
> One thing I've run into once or twice is a failed RF resistor in the
> distributor rotor. This will kill the current to the distributor cap and
> will then kill the coil.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/


if it's anything like acura, my best bet would be the distributor

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