JS,

Ok, when I adjusted it last... I didn't think the cable was supposed to be
loose. I got under there & it was a little loose & I was like crap! I
thought it was supposed to be snug... so I made it snug.... I guess that's
what I get for adjusting it w/out knowing 100% what I'm doing. I'll allow
for a little free play & also check for the other things you said. Thx, JS.

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo)
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors
Aluminum adjustable clutch quadrant


"JS" > wrote in message news:kdmUd.45360$W16.3017@trndny07...
> Mike,
>
> As .boB said, back the nuts off of the clutch fork until there is a little
> bit of free play in the cable. If the nuts are pushing against the clutch
> fork, you are pushing the clutch in slightly, and this may be why you
don't
> feel the clutch is engaging fully. Also keep in mind that if you have no
> free play at the top, and you used a wrench or other tool to tighten the
> lead nut some on the clutch fork, you are constantly putting pressure on
> your throwout bearing by applying force to the clutch pressure plate.
This
> causes premature wear of parts.
>
> Loosen the lock nut and then back both nuts off until they're no longer
> touching the clutch fork. Pull the cable out (toward the back of the car)
> as far as you can, hold it there, and turn the lead nut in until it's
*just*
> about touching the clutch fork.. small air gap and still loose enough to
> move around, but not pop out of the fork. You should be doing this by
hand.
> After you're happy with where the lead nut is, tighten the lock nut
against
> the lead nut. After you let go of the cable, it may cause the lead nut to
> rest against the fork - this is ok. Go back into the car and check the
> pedal feel.
>
> Because you put the aluminum quadrant on, there is no spring pulling the
> clutch pedal to the top - this is why you need to make sure your cable is
> pulled out (pulls the clutch pedal to the top). Otherwise, it is possible
> to have a lower clutch height. You may want to do this if you're more
> comfortable with this, but keep in mind that the total travel won't be as
> far and you'll have to make sure that the clutch disengages completely.
>
> After this adjustment, you should feel just a slight bit of play in the
> pedal, then it should feel relatively normal again (close to stock). Take
> it for a test drive and adjust accordingly... but this should get you
> closer.
>
> In short - the free play at the top ensures complete engagement, and
pulling
> the cable out completely ensures complete disengagement (longest possible
> pedal travel). This doesn't mean you can't have both with a different
> adjustment, but this method's the fail-safe. If you're still having
> engagement problems after this, it may just be time for a clutch.
>
> HTH,
>
> JS
>
> > wrote in message
> . com...
> >I don't have a firewall adjuster... here is the clutch quadrant & cable I
> > bought:
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7934691680
> >
> > Any idea how to adjust it on this one? I have a digital camera on the
> > way...
> > so I'll be able to take pictures sometime this week, but I'm going to
work
> > on it tomorrow.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > -Mike
> >
> > --
> > A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
> > Cold air intake
> > FRPP 3.73 gears
> > Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
> > Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo)
> > Hi-speed fan switch
> > 255/60R-15 rear tires
> > Subframe connectors
> > Aluminum adjustable clutch quadrant
> >
> >
> > ".boB" > wrote in message
> > . com...
> >> wrote:
> >> > I bought an aluminum clutch quadrant & adjustable clutch cable...
> > anybody
> >> > know of a site that describes how to adjust it? I went underneath the
> > car w/
> >> > a buddy of mine & found out where the cable is & where the nuts are
to
> >> > adjust it... but now I think my clutch is slipping a bit.. as in not
> > fully
> >> > engaging. I'm going to look at it tomorrow so any advice tonight
would
> > be
> >> > awesome... I realize it's pretty late though . I appreciate it.
> >> > Thanks
> >> > all.
> >>
> >> You should have two points of adjustment, one at
> >> the firewall, and one at the clutch arm. Start by
> >> placing the firewall adjuster at about it's mid point.
> >> The crawl underneath and and adjust the the cable so
> >> the arm has about 1/16-1/8" of free play. That should
> >> be just about perfect.
> >> As you drive and use the clutch, it will need just
> >> a little bit of fine adjustment to get it perfect. Do
> >> that at the firewall, it's much easier.
> >>
> >> --
> >> .boB
> >> 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged!
> >> 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
> >> 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
> >> 1966 FFR Cobra - Ongoing project
> >>
> >
> >
>
>