Mike,

As .boB said, back the nuts off of the clutch fork until there is a little
bit of free play in the cable. If the nuts are pushing against the clutch
fork, you are pushing the clutch in slightly, and this may be why you don't
feel the clutch is engaging fully. Also keep in mind that if you have no
free play at the top, and you used a wrench or other tool to tighten the
lead nut some on the clutch fork, you are constantly putting pressure on
your throwout bearing by applying force to the clutch pressure plate. This
causes premature wear of parts.

Loosen the lock nut and then back both nuts off until they're no longer
touching the clutch fork. Pull the cable out (toward the back of the car)
as far as you can, hold it there, and turn the lead nut in until it's *just*
about touching the clutch fork.. small air gap and still loose enough to
move around, but not pop out of the fork. You should be doing this by hand.
After you're happy with where the lead nut is, tighten the lock nut against
the lead nut. After you let go of the cable, it may cause the lead nut to
rest against the fork - this is ok. Go back into the car and check the
pedal feel.

Because you put the aluminum quadrant on, there is no spring pulling the
clutch pedal to the top - this is why you need to make sure your cable is
pulled out (pulls the clutch pedal to the top). Otherwise, it is possible
to have a lower clutch height. You may want to do this if you're more
comfortable with this, but keep in mind that the total travel won't be as
far and you'll have to make sure that the clutch disengages completely.

After this adjustment, you should feel just a slight bit of play in the
pedal, then it should feel relatively normal again (close to stock). Take
it for a test drive and adjust accordingly... but this should get you
closer.

In short - the free play at the top ensures complete engagement, and pulling
the cable out completely ensures complete disengagement (longest possible
pedal travel). This doesn't mean you can't have both with a different
adjustment, but this method's the fail-safe. If you're still having
engagement problems after this, it may just be time for a clutch.

HTH,

JS

> wrote in message
. com...
>I don't have a firewall adjuster... here is the clutch quadrant & cable I
> bought:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7934691680
>
> Any idea how to adjust it on this one? I have a digital camera on the
> way...
> so I'll be able to take pictures sometime this week, but I'm going to work
> on it tomorrow.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -Mike
>
> --
> A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
> Cold air intake
> FRPP 3.73 gears
> Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
> Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo)
> Hi-speed fan switch
> 255/60R-15 rear tires
> Subframe connectors
> Aluminum adjustable clutch quadrant
>
>
> ".boB" > wrote in message
> . com...
>> wrote:
>> > I bought an aluminum clutch quadrant & adjustable clutch cable...
> anybody
>> > know of a site that describes how to adjust it? I went underneath the
> car w/
>> > a buddy of mine & found out where the cable is & where the nuts are to
>> > adjust it... but now I think my clutch is slipping a bit.. as in not
> fully
>> > engaging. I'm going to look at it tomorrow so any advice tonight would
> be
>> > awesome... I realize it's pretty late though . I appreciate it.
>> > Thanks
>> > all.
>>
>> You should have two points of adjustment, one at
>> the firewall, and one at the clutch arm. Start by
>> placing the firewall adjuster at about it's mid point.
>> The crawl underneath and and adjust the the cable so
>> the arm has about 1/16-1/8" of free play. That should
>> be just about perfect.
>> As you drive and use the clutch, it will need just
>> a little bit of fine adjustment to get it perfect. Do
>> that at the firewall, it's much easier.
>>
>> --
>> .boB
>> 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged!
>> 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
>> 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
>> 1966 FFR Cobra - Ongoing project
>>
>
>