Some more questions to narrow down.
Is all the maintenance up to date:
- Fuel filter
- Air filter
- Induction Service
- Fuel Injection Service
- O2 sensors
- Ignition Service
Has the car ever run out of gas?
Is the check engine light on?
What are the emissions readings when connected to OBDII?

There are many factors that can affect the cold start scenario you are
experiencing. It is very possible to spend more money than necessary
by throwing parts at it. It could be a bad sensor, a clogged filter, a
failing pump, a leaking injector, a loose gas cap, moisture somewhere
in the ignition system. A scanner could point you in the right
direction. Could also point you in more than one right/wrong direction.
Have seen this all too often when the local parts house does a scan
and provides the codes for a DIY'er who then buys all the parts needed
to fix all the codes when it may have only been one of the codes
affecting the rest enough to come on.

Knifeblade_03 wrote:
> The abnormally high idle you state is not the result of a leaky injector
> causing the engine to burn off the excess fuel leaked into the engine.
> The engine would burn all that fuel at start-up, and possibly give you
> a long-start at start-up. [basically, flooded]. Also, an injector with
> a worn or open pintle will bleed pressure out of the immediate fuel
> line. Again, a delay in start-up.
>
> A leaky injector won't spray as well as needed, and the resulting high
> idle is PCM compensation. As stated above, a fuel-pressure check of the
> injectors is a good place to start. Caveat> usually best left to pay a
> shop for the test.
>
>
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> Knifeblade_03
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