On Mar 21, 1:45 pm, "Elle" > wrote:
> This Honda is old enough (both in years and miles) that a
> pre-emptive change of the O2 sensor is wise. The symptoms
> all seem to support it as well. We're talking about the
> upstream sensor here, given the symptoms, though I think
> your Accord has only one O2 sensor.
>
> Buy only an OEM O2 sensor.https://www.automedicsupply.com/
> sells them at the best prices I have seen. I used this
> company. I was very pleased with the service of this online
> company a few years ago when I replaced my 91 Civic's sensor
> pre-emptively.
>
> The power loss would be related to a failed O2 sensor. Could
> be other things, but the O2 sensor is a strong candidate.
> You can unplug the sensor and compare how the car runs
> without it to the way it runs now, to possibly get more
> insight.
>
> > wrote
>
>
>
> > Hello, all, I have a couple of problems with a 1991 Accord
> > that I
> > can't seem to find a definite answer for. It's a 4
> > cylinder,
> > automatic with 220,000 miles.
>
> > This my girlfriend's car, so I don't drive it that much,
> > but I've
> > driven it enough to see both problems.
>
> > First, the check engine light comes on from time to time.
> > It may come
> > on and then go off after restarting the car. I've checked
> > the engine
> > code (by jumpering the little connector under the glovebox
> > and
> > counting the CEL flashes) and I get a code 1, which is
> > supposed to be
> > the O2 sensor (not sure if that's the upstream or
> > downstream sensor (I
> > think there are both on this car but I have not visually
> > verified
> > that). This problem has been occurring for several
> > months, even
> > before I did some work on the car's engine, so I don't
> > feel it is
> > related to any recent work on the car.
>
> > Before I mention the second problem let me say that one
> > month ago I:
> > replaced the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, spark
> > plugs,
> > distributor cap, distributor rotor, spark plug wires, and
> > the valve-
> > stem seals. Afterwards it ran fine, no problems evidenced
> > at all, but
> > I probably should mention that work, just in case it
> > matters.
>
> > The second probem occurred last Saturday. The car had
> > been driven and
> > warmed up and then parked for about 2 hours. After
> > starting the car
> > we drove it about 6 miles and the car exhibited loss of
> > power. We
> > stopped at a store and killed about 30 minutes and then
> > went back to
> > the car. We were going to my home about 60 miles from
> > where we were
> > and I drove. The car ran fine until the last 3 miles or
> > so. I was
> > driving about 80 mph when the speed started dropping and
> > it felt like
> > it had lost power, yet it didn't feel like the engine had
> > died, it
> > just decellerated gradually. I pressed the accelerator to
> > no avail,
> > however, when I pressed the pedal all the way to the floor
> > the car
> > downshifted and surged hard, full power. So, it ran fine
> > at wide open
> > throttle (WOT). I lessened the pressure on the
> > accelerator and let it
> > return to about where it should be for 70-80 mph and the
> > car upshifted
> > and then exhibited the loss of power again. I repeated
> > the WOT,
> > downshift, ease-back, upshift sequence twice more before I
> > reached my
> > exit from the hiway. However, once I had slowed down for
> > the exit,
> > and for the remaining 1.2 miles or so to my house, the car
> > ran
> > flawlessly. It never died, I never killed/restarted it,
> > nothing.
> > Just slowed down, exited the hiway, boom! ran fine.
>
> > Any ideas or suggestions on what is going on with these
> > two problems?
> > Is it worthwhile to replace the O2 sensor, or should I
> > remove it,
> > inspect it, check the connections, etc. and try to finesse
> > this
> > thing? Anything relate that to this newer problem of
> > power loss?
>
> > Thank you for your help.
>
> > --HC- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thank you for your reply. I will probably replace that. The problem
I'm facing now is that maybe, and I'm not sure, the O2 sensor might
freak out if the readings are out of range, but maybe what's driving
them out of range is that the fuel pressure is low to the injectors.
Maybe that's a stretch, but it *might* be. I'm trying to go at this
in a step by step manor and it occurred to me to check the fuel
pressure. But....HOW? I can't find a port to check it. Maybe I'm
dense. My Chilton's manual is of no use. Suggestions?

Thank you again for your reply and your time.

--HC