"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

> I don't know how to judge the torque accurately,

I have a torque wrench - but the only time (recently) that I've used it
was to replace the front wheel bearing nut. I figured it was important
to set the torque of that nut to factory specs.

Other than that, I use a liberal amount of torque, as judged by hand, on
any bolt I reinstall.

So in other words - no need to get all bent out of shape trying to
torque each and every bolt according to the book.

> When I did get it out, I found that the bottom part of the
> bolt had additional metal caught up in the threads, so now
> in what condition are the threads into which it screws?
> Will merely replacing the bolt solve the problems?

Looks like (based on your next post) that bolt was stripped at the
factory.

I'd just try to install a bolt with SAE thread (english thread - not
metric). Would probably work at least once. Next time you'll probably
have to tap new threads.

> Unlike the driver's side, the passenger's side end of the sway
> bar does not want to move, and the old bushing is pinched tight
> against the frame. Jack up that corner and take the load off
> the suspension that side?

I use a small bottle jack to lift the sway bar if I need to reposition
it.

I've used a bottle jack to pop the outer tierod end out of it's hole
when I was replacing one of the front struts.

I've also used a bottle jack placed at the end of my ratchet (or wrench)
to turn some stubborn bolts. It's a little tricky and unstable, but it
works when you need it.