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Old October 18th 07, 12:01 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.saturn
Refinish King
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Posts: 39
Default #3 misfire on 2000 SW2

On the L300's I worked on:

The clamps were like the spring type clamps.

With a flat on one side, and two flat flanges across.

RK
"Paul" > wrote in message
ps.com...
> On Oct 16, 8:44 pm, "Refinish King" > wrote:
>> There could be a vacuum leak on one of the plenum boots:
>>
>> Also, the Saturns are well known for the exhaust valves sticking open a
>> bit
>> at that mileage.
>>
>> The reason being that:
>>
>> 1- They ream the valve guides just under 8MM/5-16" at the factory, to
>> help
>> prevent oil leaking down the stem. (Seals were optional, depending on
>> valve
>> stem tolerance)
>>
>> 2- The little oil that does go down the stem cokes on the stem, and at
>> certain RPM ranges, the valve hangs off of the seat slightly.
>>
>> That's where a leak down test, or even better; a running compression test
>> comes in. But not applicable on this engine except for the leak down
>> test.
>>
>> I would suggest you remove the plenum, a do it yourselfer grade of cable
>> type hose clamp pliers, are available at Auto Zone for about $20.00.
>> (They
>> really come in handy)
>>
>> Do the plugs, valve cover gaskets, and at the very least, do a
>> compression
>> test.
>>
>> I hope this helps.
>>
>> RK"Paul" > wrote in message
>>
>> oups.com...
>>
>> > On Oct 16, 1:47 pm, "Oppie" > wrote:
>> >> "Paul" > wrote in message

>>
>> groups.com...

>>
>> >> > On Oct 14, 10:42 pm, "oppie" > wrote:
>> >> >> I've got the lw300 (2001)
>> >> >> The female Torx bits are sold by lisle
>> >> >> This it, I
>> >> >> believehttp://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=323

>>
>> >> >> Past that you need a fancy pliers to remove and reinstall the snap
>> >> >> rings
>> >> >> on
>> >> >> the intake plenum tubes. I've been meaning to do the plugs on mine
>> >> >> but
>> >> >> haven't had a chance to pick up to pliers yet. I've got the Torx
>> >> >> set
>> >> >> and
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> fuel line separator tools...

>>
>> >> >> Just a note on damage from an old spark plug. As the plugs wear,
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> gap
>> >> >> increases and the voltage that the ECM sees from the plug firing
>> >> >> increases
>> >> >> proportionately. Eventually, it puts more strain on the ECM and
>> >> >> spark
>> >> >> module. Likely that the plugs just need to be changed but could
>> >> >> also
>> >> >> be
>> >> >> the
>> >> >> coil over plug module.

>>
>> >> >> A shop manual from Saturn is definitely worth the money if you do
>> >> >> an
>> >> >> work
>> >> >> yourself. I got mine from Saturn parts but you can also order
>> >> >> throughwww.helminc.com
>> >> >> Oppie

>>
>> >> >> "Paul" > wrote in message

>>
>> >> groups.com...

>>
>> >> >> >I had a guy at the local AutoZone pull codes on my 2000 v-6 wagon.
>> >> >> > I've got a couple O2 sensors out and a #3 misfire. I figure I
>> >> >> > should
>> >> >> > change the plugs. The problem is I can't even see the plugs.
>> >> >> > What's
>> >> >> > involved? I looked at a Hane's manual for the car, but it was no
>> >> >> > help
>> >> >> > glad I didn't buy it. Does anyone know where to find
>> >> >> > instructions
>> >> >> > online? I'm not willing to pay Saturn $xxx to change the plugs
>> >> >> > if I
>> >> >> > don't have to. I know I'm gonna have to buy a bunch of those
>> >> >> > fancy
>> >> >> > star shaped sockets, what are those even called? Are there plug
>> >> >> > wires
>> >> >> > that can be replaced or does each plug have its own coil?

>>
>> >> >> > Well thanks for your input,
>> >> >> > Pau

>>
>> >> > Ah, those are female torx, now I know what to ask for at least.
>> >> > Hopefully the coil(s) will be ok. Hmm special pliers for the snap
>> >> > rings. I was planning on using hose clamps. Someone sells ones
>> >> > that
>> >> > are ~1/4" wide I imagine that should work just fine, right? I do
>> >> > not
>> >> > have the fuel separator line tool however. It appeared to me that it
>> >> > just had a latching mechanism that held it together.

>>
>> >> > This just started last week we haven't put too many miles on it
>> >> > since. Hopefully the coil is still ok, hopefully.

>>
>> >> > Thanks Oppie

>>
>> >> No problem. The fuel lines need a tool that inserts between the halves
>> >> and
>> >> moves the retention spring out of the way. You will never get it apart
>> >> without the tool. They're cheap plastic tool sets. worth having in
>> >> your
>> >> tool
>> >> box.

>>
>> >> Have you ruled out injector or fuel problems? Changed the fuel filter
>> >> lately? Checked fuel pressure?
>> >> Run some good injector cleaner through the system for possibly a
>> >> couple
>> >> of
>> >> tank fulls. When idling, the mixture is pretty lean and if the spray
>> >> pattern
>> >> is not good from a fouled injector, it will not ignite - missing.
>> >> How is oil consumption on the engine. All Saturns burn a quantity of
>> >> oil.
>> >> Just hope that it is not so much that it causes a miss. Finally check
>> >> for
>> >> vacuum leaks by pinching off vacuum hoses and listening to see if the
>> >> missing stops. Might also read out parameters with a scan tool (not a
>> >> simple
>> >> code reader) to see if anything is awry - like fuel trims.

>>
>> > I've never changed the fuel filter. I did add some Chevron injector
>> > cleaner at 4x strength, didn't seem to help. I could add more, but
>> > don't have much faith in it. I can check for vacuum leaks, cracked
>> > hoses etc., easy enough. Though I doubt a vacuum leak would cause
>> > only #3 to misfire. It is misfiring at a very regular rate, if that
>> > tells you anything.

>>
>> > I just changed the oil, hell I bet that's it. I put in 5w30 and had
>> > been using 10w30. I bet its pulling in more oil and fowled the plug,
>> > damn. I probably still should change the plugs though with 125,000 mi
>> > on them.

>>
>> > Thanks your replies are greatly appreciated,
>> > Paul

>
> Hey RK, What do you mean by "a do it yourselfer grade of cable
> type hose clamp pliers, are available at Auto Zone for about $20.00.
> (They
> really come in handy) "? Are these pliers to remove the snapped-on
> type hose clamps?
>
> Thanks for the info,
> Paul
>
> PS I may need info on removing oxidation on my '68 Mustang after I'm
> done with this don't go away, just yet!
>



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