"joe" wrote:

> I got the r134a on a discount, only $9 /lb.so they call it r124a.
> I have the manifold and vaccum pump to evacuate the system.
> I'm more worried about all the electronics and connections in the
> dash..Someone suggested a two part system for fixing the leak. Has
> anyone any experiance with it? I question how good it would be for the
> compressor, reciever dryer, or the H valve.

I wouldn't try any "Mechanic in a Bottle" crap for your A/C system. It
can certainly cause more problems than you have right now. Modern
automotive condenser core tubing is the smallest diameter it has ever
been (more prone to clogging), and your van uses an expansion valve
(more expensive to replace than an orifice tube if it clogs).

I wouldn't worry about the electrical connections. They are all
differently shaped to ease reassembly. Simply label every connector
and part with adhesive memo paper or whatever.

Other random thoughts on the job:
Drop the steering wheel down to get more room to pull back the dash.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait a few minutes before
disconnecting any airbag related wiring on and around the steering
column or passenger side airbag. Drain the coolant long before you
start. Use new green A/C orings and lube them with PAG oil before
reassembly. Take out the heater, instrument panel, and radio
components first to get a look at hidden bolts. Remove any A pillar
and kick panel trim that you think might get in the way. When all of
this stuff is out of the way the dash will move fairly easily. Be
careful with the heater core pipes. Break the heater hose adhesion
with a hose removal tool (a blunt pick shaped tool); don't try to twist
them loose with pliers like a butcher.

Toyota MDT in MO