> wrote in message
oups.com...

> it's the ECU!!! i am sure

WELL that is one possible cause, but I say check all of the wiring from the
ECM/ECU plug using the Bentley testing chart. If the ECM/ECU is not getting
power and ground then it will not work. ;-)
Bentley $44.07 http://tinyurl.com/22obwb or the long link
http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Jet...1272344&sr=8-3

The ECM should be the LAST thing to suspect and change!
Ign switch is one of the first I look at.


> i dont have the vag-com.. it could have saved me a lot of time...
> but yeah i did check the fuses and relays first thing.. i just can't
> recall seeing the check engine light on recently, either when cranking
> or running, but like you said i think it could be a bad bulb, mine had
> been overworked.

Some use the vag-com clones found on Ebay for around $20. I am not sure
that they work but for $20...........why not try one! ;-)


> i did clean all the connectors, spayed CRC cleaner on every each one
> them... i only disconnected and clean the inside a few connectors that
> i suspected getting showered by the coolant, and ones that go to
> camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor and coolant sensor
>
> i found out that in case of a faulty coolant sensor, the ECU will use
> the default 80 C or 176 F, so it's not the coolant sensor. also on
> 2.0L engine the camshaft sensor only works for advanced/retarded
> timing and the engine can start with it disconnected, so neither the
> camshaft sensor
>
> i was able to download the bentley manual for BMW 3 series and check
> the Jetta crankshaft sensor following the instructions, the resistance
> across pin 1-2 is 570 ohms compared to 1280 ohms specs of that of the
> BMW. checked with napaonline and they are different part numbers,
> albeit looking exactly the same.. while i have no idea if 570 ohms is
> still within specs, at least the sensor was not completely dead,
> yes?
>
> i reached under the rain gutter and tapped the ECU a few times with a
> wooden stick, then cranked the engine and noticed a significantly
> slower crank, some sort of resistance that caused by chamber
> combustions, though weak and uneven.... also another good thing was
> that the dash shift indicator worked correctly. tried cranking about
> five times more but still no start.
>
> so i pulled the ECU off the compartment, unpluged the harness and
> examined the wires and prongs, made sure nothing was broken or loose,
> put everything back, and the first thing i noticed was the dash shift
> indicator turning wacko again.... i tapped the damn ECU again, and
> this time it's like beating a dead horse..
>
> i'd probably look for another ECU at a junk yard, dont know if i'll
> have much luck finding used VW parts in houston TX... haha...

ebay has a '95 ECM going pretty cheap right now http://tinyurl.com/2g9rl7
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Elect...spagenameZWDVW

You NEED to make sure all the ECM's numbers and letters are identical to
yours.