Mark Goodall wrote:

> Thanks, Mopar Man. And PaxPerPoten, check out this fan test:

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jee...lay_test_6.php

> I ran the test with my multimeter, passenger side fan showed about
> 10 amps, driver side fan 62 amps! Does this test sound kosher?

I wouldn't even think that 10 amps is normal, let alone 62 amps.

In doing some web-searching, I've come across references where people
pull electric fans out of junkyard '89 Taurus to put into '94 Mustang:

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...cfan/index.php

They measure the current draw of the motor at 40 amps using the
"high-speed" supply wire.

That is a single large motor/fan. I would guess that if you have a
setup using multiple smaller fans, that the individual fans will draw a
smaller amount of current, but maybe collectively you're still looking
at 20+ amps worth of draw.

I wouldn't have thought that the current draw for a car's electric
radiator fan (or fans) wouldn't have exceeded 5 or 10 amps in total, but
it appears that they might very well do double or 4 time that amount.
And if so, I really have to question the over-all energy efficiency of
having electric fan motors vs a mechanical fan turned directly by the
engine.

> I didn't know you could test potential current draw with just
> an ohm-meter.

That seems like a really hokey way to test the current draw of a DC
motor - by measuring it's zero-RPM resistance. That would probably tell
you what the starting current is for the motor, but not the running
current (starting current is always higher). When a motor is running,
it's creating a "back EMF" voltage that reduces it's current draw - but
that's a function of it's RPM. If your fan is gummed up and doesn't
turn freely, then your RPM will not be what it should and your current
draw will go up.

> If so, could I have fried the new PWM relay before the fans tried
> to spin?

Or even if your fans do spin, they have too much mechanical resistance
that over hours or days of operation will burn out your controller.

> Would Advance or Autozone be able to test the relay?

Take the fans apart, or spray a lot of WD-40 into them and get them
spinning easily by hand, then hook them back up directly to the battery
(to make sure they spin nice and easy and fast) and then hook them up to
the relay / controller and see if they spin when the engine is running
(the engine might have to be hot for the fans to come on).

If you use WD40, then I'd spray something else into the fan after (a
true or real lubricant, like maybe a silicone spray). WD40 is more of a
solvent / cleaner than it is a lubricant.

You might also want to look at this:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1f/bl287f.htm