wws > writes:

>I just use the black for everything. Red maybe for marine watercooled
>exhaust flanges.
>A LIGHT coat on the gaskets

No gaskets - just block surface and oil pan flange, which will be clean metal once I scrape off the existing RTV.

>,(it may dry a little but thats ok, it swells when it gets oil on it, and
>wet dobs in the corners right before you mount it.

Sounds good.

>> Should I pack the new pump with vaseline as the teardown manual states?
>> Factory manual says nothing but that may be assumed.

>Pack it Yes.Might melt a little, just do your best.

Looks like the new one will come sealed so I've got to hope they include
instructions on what to do. From reading it appears that motors with crank
mounted oil pumps are difficult to prime so hopefully I don't have to do
anything... the car has been sitting for 2 weeks however and a month is
supposedly the point where the bearings start to dry out.

>I use whatever allows hand tool removal. Use A Torque Wrench. With a new
>bolt and a 6 point socket it will not be a problem. Even if you have to
>readjust it.
....
>What torque?
>Wellll, lessee. Thats 10mm? What does the book say?

Well, it's a 12 point bolt - one of five on the car (other four are 8mm on
the throttle body). I believe that the original problem was a cretin with a
6 point socket and air gun from how the bolt head looked, and how the bolt
just fell out of the hole once I ground off teh head.

The book calls for 37 lb/ft of torque, but I was at about 10 lb/ft on my
torque wrench when the original oil pump broke to the tune of $160. That's
why I'm giving serious consideration to loctiting the bolt into the new pump
instead of torquing it. IMHO it is a terrible design to have the tensioner
bolt thread into the aluminum pump housing instead of into the block, but now
I'm 'all in' on this car unfortunately so I've got to fix it and drive
regardless of how I feel about it.