Ryan Underwood wrote:
> wws > writes:
>
>
>>Get the studs out of the pump any way you can. Visegrips maybe. Or break
>>them.
>
>
> That advice made my day. I got a death grip on the studs with red channel
> locks (note: blue channel locks insufficient :-) ), cracked em loose (what a
> great sound), and they turned right out. Where's your tip jar?

Just throw it in the top of my box, Thanks!
>
>
>>Put it back with bolts or screws.
>
>
> You betcha.
>
>
>>Permatex red is specialty high heat, black is the best for block sealing.
>
>
> For oil sealing or for all sealing? I used permatex red on the thermostat
> housing on the cylinder head. It appears that whoever did the water pump
> used something black on it. The oil pan and pump had red sealant of some
> kind. When I put the pump back on I will use black as you suggest.

I just use the black for everything. Red maybe for marine watercooled
exhaust flanges.
A LIGHT coat on the gaskets,(it may dry a little but thats ok, it swells
when it gets oil on it, and wet dobs in the corners right before you
mount it.
>
> I think I bent the flange of the oil pan a little bit - what's the best way
> to correct that, or will it self-correct when the new pump is installed?

Hit it with a hammer.
Tighten that one last and it will pull up. Just don't strip it out,
Maybe a little extra silicone there.
>
> Should I pack the new pump with vaseline as the teardown manual states?
> Factory manual says nothing but that may be assumed.

Pack it Yes.Might melt a little, just do your best.
>
>
>>You need a new pulley, use anti-sieze(Permatex) for reassy.
>
>
> Aye aye.
>
> That tensioner through hole on the oil pump looks to be a very bad design to
> me. On the new one, I'd like to use loctite as was suggested earlier to
> avoid stressing that point (I found someone else whose broke off in the same
> way, his broke while driving and made a real mess of things). How can I
> manage the tensioner installation and adjustment with loctite? Will it give
> me enough time to make any final belt adjustments before it sets up? And,
> will RED loctite become 'unlocked' by heating the bolt in the future, or is
> that only a property of blue loctite?

I use whatever allows hand tool removal. Use A Torque Wrench. With a new
bolt and a 6 point socket it will not be a problem. Even if you have to
readjust it.
>
> This group is one of the most excellent resources on the internet and this
> is at least the third time this week I have been saved with a timely piece
> of advice. Thanks!
>
What torque?
Wellll, lessee. Thats 10mm? What does the book say?

wws