wws > writes:

>Get the studs out of the pump any way you can. Visegrips maybe. Or break
>them.

That advice made my day. I got a death grip on the studs with red channel
locks (note: blue channel locks insufficient :-) ), cracked em loose (what a
great sound), and they turned right out. Where's your tip jar?

>Put it back with bolts or screws.

You betcha.

>Permatex red is specialty high heat, black is the best for block sealing.

For oil sealing or for all sealing? I used permatex red on the thermostat
housing on the cylinder head. It appears that whoever did the water pump
used something black on it. The oil pan and pump had red sealant of some
kind. When I put the pump back on I will use black as you suggest.

I think I bent the flange of the oil pan a little bit - what's the best way
to correct that, or will it self-correct when the new pump is installed?

Should I pack the new pump with vaseline as the teardown manual states?
Factory manual says nothing but that may be assumed.

>You need a new pulley, use anti-sieze(Permatex) for reassy.

Aye aye.

That tensioner through hole on the oil pump looks to be a very bad design to
me. On the new one, I'd like to use loctite as was suggested earlier to
avoid stressing that point (I found someone else whose broke off in the same
way, his broke while driving and made a real mess of things). How can I
manage the tensioner installation and adjustment with loctite? Will it give
me enough time to make any final belt adjustments before it sets up? And,
will RED loctite become 'unlocked' by heating the bolt in the future, or is
that only a property of blue loctite?

This group is one of the most excellent resources on the internet and this
is at least the third time this week I have been saved with a timely piece
of advice. Thanks!