On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 3:23:08 PM UTC-8, Comboverfish wrote:
> Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
> quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
> cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
> offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
> of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
> noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
> seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
> this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
>
> Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
> http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
>
> Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
> this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
> experiences.
>
> The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
> 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
> decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
> hardly be any stroke left.
>
> Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
> it to work any other way):
>
> 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
> This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
> service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
> close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
> Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
> apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
> absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
> unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
> completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
> slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
> plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
> spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
> turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
>
> 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
> ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
> oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
> through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
> keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
> avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
> since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
> are designed to interchange easily).
>
> 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
> As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
> you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
> enough oil. Slower is better here.
>
> 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
> further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
> hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
> temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
>
> 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
> weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
> pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
> engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
> becomes less than 100% effective.
>
> 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
> it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
> and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
> the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
> steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
> all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
> I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
> would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
> 1/2 hour at worst.
>
> I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
> plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
> me. HTH.
>
> Toyota MDT in MO



On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 3:23:08 PM UTC-8, Comboverfish wrote:
> Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
> quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
> cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
> offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
> of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
> noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
> seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
> this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
>
> Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
> http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
>
> Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
> this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
> experiences.
>
> The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
> 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
> decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
> hardly be any stroke left.
>
> Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
> it to work any other way):
>
> 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
> This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
> service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
> close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
> Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
> apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
> absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
> unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
> completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
> slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
> plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
> spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
> turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
>
> 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
> ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
> oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
> through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
> keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
> avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
> since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
> are designed to interchange easily).
>
> 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
> As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
> you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
> enough oil. Slower is better here.
>
> 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
> further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
> hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
> temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
>
> 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
> weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
> pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
> engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
> becomes less than 100% effective.
>
> 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
> it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
> and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
> the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
> steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
> all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
> I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
> would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
> 1/2 hour at worst.
>
> I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
> plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
> me. HTH.
>
> Toyota MDT in MO