I used 1/4" steel plates under my tub to pick up both the frame mount
and the 'roll' bar plate as well as the seat belt anchor so they are
frame mounted. I intend to anchor the rear of the roll bar to the rear
frame I made under the fenders that anchors tot he mounts for my spare
tire bracket when I do the next restore. Frame swap next....

I cracked a door post below one windshield bracket, but I don't think
that was a design defect. I think that I was on the losing end of an
argument with a tree for that one.... Maybe many trees as my CB antenna
on the mirror on that side and the mirror catch lots of branches.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

L.W. (Bill) Hughes III wrote:
> Hi Larry,
> You have to make struts to hold your roll bar, to give it the same
> strength as a steel tub. Mike Romain, here had to reinforce the windshield
> brackets. But it sure look nice when it's finished:
> http://www.billhughes.com/zakocs/caldwell/
> http://www.saturdaybang.com/jeep/
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>
>
> "Larry W" > wrote in message
> ...
>> I'm in the process of restoring my 65' CJ5 plow vehicle. The drive train
> and
>> frame are very good but the body tub was so bad I just cut it up and took
> it to
>> the dump. For cost reasons, I'm leaning towards a fiberglass tub through
>> quadratec.com (they are close enough that I can pick it up and save
> shipping).
>> Can anyone give me some tips on the amount of work is involved in fitting
> a
>> glass tub. I would love to get a steel tub but don't know if I can justify
> the
>> extra $900.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Larry
>
>
>