On 12/4/2012 10:00 PM, Max Welton wrote:
> On Saturday, December 1, 2012 9:13:53 PM UTC-7, ChrisKlinger wrote:
>> Hi group.
>>
>>
>>
>> Finally got my heads yesterday. Today, I'm set to get my car running
>>
>> again... but wait! Could there be _more_ surprises? But of course!
>>
>>
>>
>> Pushrods are too short. From the look of the adjusters, geometry was never
>>
>> right. In fact, I notice that the rocker arms are free to slide back and
>>
>> forth about 1mm on the fancy hich-tech solid rocker shaft. In retrospect, I
>>
>> can now see why it destroyed a valve guide (though a kindlier engine would
>>
>> have kept it in the port, and not sent a piece into the cylinder
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyhow, Monday I'll order new adjusters, a set of cut-'em-yourself
>>
>> pushrods, and shaft spacers/shims.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anybody ever buy from http://www.chircoestore.com ?
>>
>>
>>
>> Also, opinions on swivel-foot adjusters vs. standard are appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>> And, no, I don't know what cam lift is, nor do I know what the rocker ratio
>>
>> is. Pulled the oil pump hoping to see something, but there's no marking.
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>> bolt-on gear, though.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ya gotta love getting stuck with someone's half-baked crap.
>>
>>
>>
>> Chris
>
> The 911 type adjustors are expensive but last essentially forever. I am still using the set I got from GBE in 1999. They also help make valve lash much more stable. I typically only need to change the lash if I've had to re-shim the solid rocker shafts. Once or twice a year.
>
> Max


The good: Porsche style, also called "elephant's foot" style. You can
get these either genuine Porsche (#901 105 370 02) or copies.
http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn....Adjuster-2.jpg

The bad: Captive ball type, aftermarket.
http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn....os/20118-2.jpg
May work ok in stock applications, but these do not tolerate high lift
cams/high rpms. They like to snap at the skinny neck. They also do not
offer as much contact area as the 911 style. If you "miss" the tip of
the valve for any reason, the cup that holds the ball hits the valve tip
and the ball seizes. MUST use solid shafts to eliminate "misses".
Personally, I will never use or recommend this type again.

BOTH types require a solid lifter, the valve lash is needed to feed oil
to the swivel joint or ball. With hydraulic lifters, the oil flow is
completely blocked off.

Also need to make sure the oil holes on the screw vs. inside the rocker
are lined up.

AND the ball/swivel adds height between the valve stem and the rocker,
in many cases the underside of the rocker needs to be ground down to
make room. Grind SLOW to avoid too much heat buildup. You may want to
shim the rocker shaft up to gain more room that way. Shims often come
with the adjuster kit. Also keep in mind the oil hole alignment needs to
be maintained so simply shimming the rockers way up may not be the answer.

So neither type is a simple bolt-on mod.