Ah, well it looks like in order to do the proper job, get the proper
tools. Am going to look into the cheapo diamond rifflers as suggested
by jtbartlett as well.

Meanwhile, while searching around, discovered the following place
which think is a brilliant idea:
http://www.techshop.ws

Too bad about the crap fuel issue though. I guess besides the fact
that watercooled engines can handle autodetonation better due to their
ability to shed waste heat better, they also can rely on a whole bunch
of other tricks like computerized engine management with knock sensors
and such.

-Geoffe Elias
'74 Super Beetle

On Apr 10, 2:56*am, Bob Hoover > wrote:
> On Apr 8, 2:50*pm, Geoffe Elias > wrote:
>
> > *What tool should I use to get
> > deep in there and clear out those places between the fins.
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> The proper tool is a pneumatically powered 'riffler' with a set of
> coarse files... but since you don't have any of that stuff (...or you
> wouldn't have asked the question :-) *try a saber saw with a LONG,
> COARSE-TOOTHED blade, such as for cutting wood. *That should fairly
> well on the fins. *But the holes around the exhaust valve guides are
> more important (seriously). *Try using long drills ('air-craft
> drills'). *You can't use most rotary tools... as soon as they pick up
> a bit of aluminum they become imbalanced and are liable to walk the
> die-grinder right out of your hand, *Worse-case? *A set of Swiss
> machinist's files and LOTS of patience. *(Give the files a spritz of
> WD-40 every now & then to keep them from loading up.)
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> > * I know it seems anal but I am trying to blueprint the cooling design
> > of my 1776cc Type 1 engine (with Webcam 163 camshaft) so that I may
> > safely run a higher CR (9.2:1) while running pump (Premium) gas in
> > California. *I am running the late Doghouse fanshroud with all cooling
> > flaps and all the other various cooling tin that everyone forgets
> > about.
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> I think you'd be wise to stick with 8.5:1 or LOWER. *It's not you nor
> the machine work, it's that rotten ****ing FUEL they're selling us
> nowadays. *It may say... whatever on the pump but that doesn't mean
> that's what you're getting in your tank. *My bike runs 10:1 (old
> CX-500) *The only fuel it will run on nowadays is 100LL from the
> airport. *Liv & lurn.
>
> -Bob Hoover