Both. With some crimped ones I used phosphoric acid as a flux and it
soldered beautifully with solder flowing into crimped area. On another
joint there was a male/female "bullet" connector. I removed this and just
soldered the wires together plus some heatshrink over joint.
If you can get straight phosphoric acid now it makes s superb soldering
flux. I,ve soldered straight dirty steel wires together as if it was new
copper. Just make sure its washed off later.I use it to make my own rust
remover. About a 3 part water,1 part acid.
"KWW" > wrote in message
...
> When you soldered the connections did you first remove and clean them or
> did you figure that the solder would "clean up" the connection?
> KWW
> On 7/5/2012 3:26 AM, John wrote:
>> Jeez, its quite!. After very much longer than I care to admit I twigged
>> that
>> the cause of my T3 being reluctant to start when hot may have nothing to
>> do
>> with carburation.
>> Taking the other approach I decided to look at ignition electrics.
>> Ignition is fed by a relay under back seat energised by original feed
>> from
>> ignition switch.
>> Measured voltage at the battery with ignition on, points closed, no
>> starter
>> and its 12.5 volts. Measured voltage at "+" of ignition coil with same
>> conditions and its 10.5 volts!. Two volts dropped across ~ 2 meters of
>> cable, an in line fuse, relay contacts and various crimp connectors.
>> Confirmed it with a meter from battery to coil positive. =2 volts drop.
>> With the starter on I,d be looking at another 2 volt drop giving ~8
>> volts
>> to ignition making starting suspect .
>> Soldered all crimp connections, the two volt drop went down to 0.5
>> volts,
>> car starts fine , hot ot cold.
>> All crimp connectors were industrial quality, the correct size, the
>> crimps made by decent crimpers, cable clean . I,ve been in electronics
>> for
>> 45 years and on appearances I would have said it looked perfect.
>> You,d think at 64 y.o you would have heard most things but obviously
>> not!.
>> John
>>
>>
>
>
>
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