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Old October 16th 09, 09:11 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys
Mike Romain[_4_]
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Posts: 85
Default Replacing fenders on a '95 YJ...

Well, a 'good' penetrating oil is needed and you can still expect to
snap some of the bolts. Only one bolt came out on my rustbucket, all
the rest snapped. I got good at drilling bolts into a 3/4 moon shape
using two sizes of bits so the threads just get tagged on one corner of
the hole which releases the rusted bolt nice usually without the need to
rethread or tap them.

I managed to get the inner and outer fenders off as a unit on my CJ7,
maybe taking the inners off first will help with bolt access on yours?

There are lower plates on the YJ fenders at the bottom that come off for
easier access I think also.

Mike
2000 Cherokee Sport
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and
Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com



wrote:
> Hello All-
>
> A while back I asked a question in the forum on the best method for
> replacing my rotted fenders on a 1995 YJ. Luckily, I was finally able
> to purchase two rust-free fenders in black, which will match my Jeep's
> color.
>
> It appears that the fenders are bolt-on, and I can see bolts near the
> grille and on the firewall. The ones on the grille shouldn't be a
> problem (yeah, right), as there is easy access to get at them with a
> socket.
>
> The ones on the firewall seem almost impossible to get at with my
> fingers, let alone getting at them with a ratchet and socket, and
> still be able to get any leverage on them for removal. While I
> realize I'll have to remove some of the items that are mounted on the
> inside fender well (horn, coolant jug, window washer jug, etc.) is
> there some trick to getting at these bolts?
>
> There doesn't seem to be any room to work to get these bolts off...
>
> Any practical advice (other than use lots of penetrating oil) on the
> best way to approach this?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kevin
>

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