> wrote in message
oups.com...
>I just built an 1835.
> 92 mm cylinders, with stock 69 mm crank, with 110 cam.
> I also put a full flow oil system with schadek, 30 mm hd pump with
> external cooler, and filter. I am using Fram HP1 oil filter as per
> schadek's recommendations.
> I am using the stock oil pressure bypass valves and springs, that came
> with the dual relief case.
> I did drill and tap the case, so oil exits at pump cover, runs to
> filter, up through cooler, and then back into block in the upper left
> corner of block.
> For some reason I keep blowing the seal on my filter.
> As near as I can tell it is running 45 to 55 psi, and will surge to
> 65, and up to 80 at 5000 rpms. I am running 20w 50 oil. The pressure
> will drop to 20 psi at idle.
> Is there a way to adjust the bypass valves down, so that the system
> does not build so much pressure?
> If engine is cold, I can blow seal with by reving the engine once, to
> 1400 to 2000 rpms.

You have a number of things stacked up against you. The pump is
oversized. A 26 Shadek puts out a lot as it is. A 30 is usually used
on tired engines with oil pressure problems as a band-aid.

Try a 10W30 oil. Yes, it's the not the "trendy" choice but it will flow
through the cooler. Oil flow is critical on these engines, even
more so than oil pressure. Leave the sludge for the transaxle.

What kind of fittings and what size hose? For example, 3/8" (#6)
hose and barbed fittings are a horribly restrictive. Lots of cheap
kits come with these. Find the smallest fitting I/D and measure
it accurately. That's what this massive pump is trying to push the
oil through. Consider #10 teflon-lined stainless with crimped
#10 ends and steel adapters. It's flexible, handles high heat,
and will never come apart or leak. Not cheap, but shop around.
Lots of hydraulic supply shops make up these lines and some
might cut you a deal. I even reamed out the inside of the steel
adapters with a 7/16" drill and even at that, the passageway is
still 1/8" smaller than the internal passages in a late DP case.
Think about it!

Lastly, check out the oil relief/regulator in the case. The one
towards the rear of the car. Polish the piston with crocus until it
shines. Jam a wood dowel into the end and carefully check
that it slides all the way up the bore without any hanging up.
When the case gets tapped for full-flow, sometimes the cut
threads leave a sharp edge or burr that can hang up the piston.
Polish it out if you have to. Compare the spring(s) with known
samples to make sure you didn't get a "booster" kit spring.
You can't adjust these other than use the correct parts.

To blow the seal out on an HP1 means you've got pressure
well into the hundreds.