On Fri, 4 Jul 2008 06:39:10 -0500, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
>"None4You" > wrote in message
...
>>
>> > wrote in message
>> ...
>> On Jun 24, 7:25 am, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
>>> How does one determine if a catalytic converter is sufficiently plugged
>>> up
>>> to affect the engine?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Dave
>>
>>
>> The easy test is to get out on the freeway and accelerate up to the
>> speed limit (will maybe a little over) in a bit of a hurry. If it is
>> blocked, you should feel a lack of power and slow acieration. It may
>> hit like a brick wall. This is not a sure test, but it works well
>> most of the time.
>>
>> If you don't know, likely it is not overly clogged.
>>
>> Why do you think it is ------
>> >>This is correct. Lack of power is common when stepping on the gas. You
>> still need to remove the converter to examine it and see if anything falls
>> out. its just a few bolts and clamps. The symptoms vary depending on how
>> much its plugged. And how the engine was running before it became plugged.
>> And maybe caused the malfunctioning converter problem . I find that people
>> who don't want to remove their converter are usually afraid the exhaust
>> pipes will fall apart from rust. And this is reason enough to suspect a
>> plugged converter. Especially if a piece of delaminated exhaust pipe might
>> be in the converter.
>>
>
>Cat was replaced some 6 plus years ago. Aftermarket version, welded in
>place. So, the loosen a couple of bolts to remove is not valid here. Local
>Midas shop put the car on a lift and banged both mufflers and the cat
>listening for loose internal components, nothing. All the piping has little
>if any rust on it.
>
>Again, I suspect cat blockage as the car ran very rich due to a faulty
>coolant sensor for almost a month. And, has noticably slowed at highway
>speeds at same amount of throttle. High speed acceleration is practically
>nil.
>
>Due to another response, I went out and got a vacuum gauge for checking the
>intake vacuum. It reads 17 In/HG at 800 rpm idle. That area of the gauge
>says possible late ignition timing. So, now I have to hunt down a timing
>light.
>
>Got a compression checking tool. Cylinders read the following:
>#1: 137 psi
>#2: 137 psi
>#3: 138 psi
>#4: 135 psi
>
>Loosing coolant someplace. Filled the reservoir to spec, ran it till it
>warmed up. Let it cool overnight, normal level for cold. Ran for about a
>month, found coolant reservoir empty yesterday after driving back from town.
>Filled to spec again, drove it a few miles. Don't seen any apparent leak or
>dribble of one. Oil is clean colored, no milky shade. No antifreeze smell
>inside the car.
With a welded cat you eliminated my favorite visual test. I look at
both intake and outake looking for meltdown. I had had chunks fall off
the back so it looks clear but converter chunks acted like potatoes in
the pipe before the muffler causing quite a restriction
I have seen my car leak at the flange coming off the drivers side of
the head (USA drivers side). The aluminum had corroded to the point of
leaking. A new plastic flange from VW fixed that leak. Check your
antifreeze every day you drive it to see if there is some pattern like
driving it for a 100 miles in one setting cause a greater leak that a
week of 10 mile trips. I have had the radiator leak and a few hoses.
No head leaks in the years I owned Rabbits.
http://www.visn2.com/UsingVacumeGauge.html
http://dodge.justanswer.com/dodge/wi...an-3-0l-engine
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...05/ai_n8835448