View Single Post
  #8  
Old December 30th 04, 10:37 PM
alexti
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Uwe =?iso-8859-15?Q?Sch=FCrkamp?= > wrote in
:

> On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 17:22:55 -0500, Jim Barbieri wrote:
>> uwe
>> It is a converted unit but it was done at the factory...if that makes a
>> difference. Jim

> Hi Jim,
>
> I guess having at done at the factory is the better way as I think
> you'll achieve a higher resolution than with a run-of-the-mill usb
> adapter and hi-spec pots.
>
> So here's what you need to do, in order to get RBR to run with the
> TSW (and I'd say it's worth it
>
> - open up your pedal unit, locate the brake axis pot, you'll note it
> has three soldering stations; if not, stop here ;-) if it has,
> solder an additional short piece of wire to the third station which
> is unoccupied.
>
> - unplug the wire from the other station (not the one in the middle)
> from the plastic connector where it enters the pedal base
>
> - plug in the end of the other, newly-soldered wire into the pedal
> unit connector where the other was plugged in before
>
> This will reverse the motion of your brake axis, so now within RBR it
> should go from zero to 100 as you depress it.

I'm curious: doesn't setting InvertBrakeAxis = true in input.ini help?
On my controller (MSFF) it inverts the reading (not that I actually need
it, but I've tested it)

> About the throttle: if your windows calibration crosshair is all
> "jumpy" in the y direction on the slightest touch of the pedal, try to
> depress it "slightly" all the time while calibrating it, never fully
> releasing it.

You can also try to use DXTweak, check the "raw" range of your controller
and then manually enter the range in the right pane. There you can enter
"center" point explicitly (set it to average of min and max values). This
way you won't need any windows calibration. It worked for me (and I
couldn't make it work through windows calibration)

Alex.

Ads