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Old September 4th 08, 08:12 AM posted to alt.autos.ford,rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang
Bruce L. Bergman
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Posts: 75
Default HELP! Is It My Ignition Switch?.............

On Wed, 3 Sep 2008 22:45:32 -0600, ".boB" >
wrote:

>EADGBE wrote:
>> I am having a weird problem with my 1996 Mustang
>> GT.
>>
>> Over the past year, I have installed a new
>> battery, alternator, and
>> starter (two of them), cleaned and lubricated
>> the ignition lock
>> cylinder, AND checked all of the related wiring
>> in an attempt to solve
>> the problem, but no success so far.
>>
>> The problem is this: Every once in a while, when
>> I turn the key to
>> start the car, all I will get is a click.


>-- *


Hey, Bob! DO NOT put a signature cut-line like that /above/ your text
- a proper newsreader drops everything below that cut-line!! I had to
paste it back in by hand.

You put the dash-dash-return in the first line of the .sig file.

>This can be a tough one to check, since you have
>to do the testing when the problem occurs.
>
>The first thing I would want to know, is the
>starter getting full power. You could hook up a
>volt meter to the start circuit. Watch it every
>time you turn the key. If it doesn't start, and
>you don't have full power, then you can move the
>voltmeter up the line, testing each component the
>same way.
>
>My first guess though, would be the starter
>switch.


If you get a loud click from the starter, it's probably the starter
solenoid mounted on the starter. If you have a test light and a
voltmeter you can make sure you are getting a full 12V to the small
control line, and to the large battery line. And that it is NOT
switching on the large output lead to the starter motor.

(Old Ford starters with the wedge shaped cover on the side have a
moving pole on the motor that acts as the solenoid, the motor windings
pull it in. And a remote solenoid for power switching. Same idea,
different design.)

If the battery cable is going bad the solenoid pulls in but you
don't have +12V to the big leads on the solenoid - the "clamp-on"
replacement battery terminals can go bad (high-resistance connection)
from internal corrosion and still look fine.

The ignition switch contacts are less likely. If the +12V doesn't
get to the small terminal on the starter when you turn the key to
Start, you trace that back.

--<< Bruce >>--

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