On 2013-10-07, Ashton Crusher > wrote:
> On Sun, 06 Oct 2013 18:02:06 -0400, MoPar Man > wrote:
>
>>I finally found out where my power-steering fluid was leaking from.
>>
>>After taking off the front plastic facia (which was easier to do than I
>>thought), the leak was easy to see.
>>
>>The so-called power-steering fluid cooler is just a 4-ft long piece of
>>aluminum tubing bent into a long U shape and mounted sort-of under and
>>in front of the radiator. Rubber hoses connect to this pipe on the
>>driver's side using simple hose-clamps.
>>
>>The pipe is welded to a pair of brackets that are bolted to the
>>underside of the radiator bulkhead. A small radiator (tranny cooler?)
>>is mounted to the front side of the radiator, directly behind this
>>cooler-pipe. The inlet and outlet for this small rad are located on the
>>bottom side. The PS cooler pipe was in direct contact with one of the
>>inlet/outlet nuts of this small rad.
>>
>>One of the brackets must have been bent slightly during a minor
>>front-end impact with either a snow bank or parking curb, causing the
>>pipe to remain in constant contact with the nut. This caused a hole to
>>be worn into the pipe, causing the leak.
>>
>>Here's what this cooler-pipe looks like:
>>
>>http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjAwWDgwMA==/$(KGrHqV,!n0FBZy3hOwvBQnTNBC8+Q~~60_35.JPG
>>
>>Apparently, that one was being sold on ebay for $40 - and it was used.
>>I see that someone sold a new one last year for $30. Most places seem
>>to be selling this for $50 - $75.
>>
>>I could probably make one, it looks so simple in design.
>>
>>Since it's the fall and the temps are going to get cold, I could
>>probably just bypass this thing by connecting the hoses together.
>>
>>But I wonder if the power steering fluid gets so hot that you really
>>need this stupid piece of pipe?

> Not having seen your cooler and the leaking spot my suggestion might
> not work but it most likely could easily be fixed by simply putting a
> piece of rubber over the hole and a hose clamp over that. Or cut out
> a 6" length where the damage is and put an appropriate sized piece of
> hydraulic hose in the gap secured with hose clamps.

The hose clamp idea won't likely work... maybe if it is on the return
side but still likely no. When I kludged a leaking PS line on a beater
because it was too difficult to replace but the damaged area was
accessible I used brake line as close to the diameter of the PS tube as
possible (3/8" brake line for a 10mm PS tube) and brake fittings flaring
the tubes so it all connected together. This held just fine.

However, I notice it is Al. I don't think brake line flares will form
correctly for Al tube. May require an appropiate flaring tool and
fittings for the material.

But looking at that part, I doubt it is worth the trouble over buying a
new one or just going the self serve salavage yard.