put your gauge on the Schrader valve, and then turn key on one time and
leave for about 30 seconds. while it is still on, and you're getting proper
pressure, turn key off and watch the gauge. if the pressure drops, your
fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail is possibly bad. if it has a
vacuum line on it, check for cracks and splits.


if you find none of this then you might have a bad valve in the pump. But
more than likely is as simple as a leak at the regulator vacuum hose.


> wrote in message
...
I have a 1999 Chrysler T&C Limited w 3.8L engine. It has just under 140K
miles and has served our family well in the 15+ years we have owned it. It
was starting and running great up until a week ago when it died without
warning while traveling at about 50MPH. There were no warning lights and no
diagnostic codes. I pulled it off the roadway and it would start, then die
immeidately. Eventually after 5 or 6 such starts, it failed to start any
more. A check of the fuel rail showed no pressure and a check of the fuel
pump showed it was getting power. In additon, the car would not start at
all, but I found that it would start and run as long as I pounded on the
fuel tank with my hand. The conclusion was that the fuel pump was defective,
so I drained and dropped the tank and then replaced the integrated
pickup/pump/regulator/gauge float unit.

After replacing the fuel pump and the fuel line filter, the vehicle took a
while to crank over, but eventually started and ran well. I put a fuel gauge
on the schrader valve on the front top fuel line and it read 50 PSI while it
was running which I believe is the proper pressure specification.

Now that I have explained the background, here is the current issue and why
I am asking for advice here in this group. The vehicle continues to be
extemely difficult to start (cranks for about 30 seconds., then catches and
runs great) when it sits for even very short periods of time. My
understanding is that the fuel rail is supposed to stay pressurized between
starts, but when I check it it shows 0 PSI. So why is it behaving this way?
Is the new integrated pump assmebly or the fuel filter I installed somehow
defective? (If so, exactly how does it work sicne there are two lines
running from the filter to the fuel pump assembly? Any theories?)

By the way, there are no fuel leaks anywhere. All of the pressure clip
fittings seem to be good. Also the ASD relay and fuel pump relays are
working correctly as well. I am certain that I got the large O-ring on the
retaining ring installed correctly and tightened down securely. I also
believe that I correctly re-connected the fuel tank connections (2
evaporative emissions lines and the filler tube).

Lastly, here is the procedure I have come up with to make the car start
properly till I can get this fixerd permananently. I cycle the ignition key
from off to the on (no start) position about 10X. I can hear the fuel pump
run for about 1/2 second each time and eventually can determine the fuel
line is actually pressurized from the slight change in how it sounds. I
thne turn the key to start and it fires right up like it should normally.

My theory is that the replacement fuel pump assembly is defective in that
the back flow valve (assuming it has one) is not working correctly. Any
thoughts on what I could also check or a specific diagnoistic procedure that
might identify the culprit here? I hate to think about draining and dropping
the tank again unless I can confirm that is the problem. Thanks in advance
for your thoughts.

Bob