"BSAKing" > wrote in message
...
On Oct 6, 12:05 pm, "Dad" > wrote:
> Dry transmission fill can be as much as 10 Quarts if it was really
> dry, fill a few, let it idle, do some more and let it idle until it
> gets close to the full mark and warm. It should prime even if the
> converter was dry.

**** Bear with me here, but the transmission was not drained, nor dry.
I checked the fluid level warm after a 20 min break in period on the
engine rebuild and it was ok.

> But, there are tangs on the pilot shaft of the converter that has to
> be lined up with the pump in the transmission body before it will
> engage the pump when you bolt it to the flex plate. If you missed
> that
> engagement you have some new problems.

****"tangs lining up" - I think you are talking about internal to
the transmission? The tranny was not stripped down nor taken off the
car. The engine was unbolted from the tranny by the 3 bolts and the
tranny was left in situ on the vehicle.... Maybe I am misunderstanding
this one...

If you have already bolted it
> together and run it with fluid in it, unhook a cooler line and see
> if
> the pump is working. If you get lots of fluid the pump is working
> and
> connected correctly and should move your car when primed/full.\

**** I will perform that check a little later on today and see what I
see.
Thanks!
>
When the trasmission is removed from the engine the converter is
loose, other than hanging on the center shaft. It can be removed by
simply pulling forward on it. The tangs that drive the pump have about
1/4 - 3/8 inch engagement. If the converter moved forward that far and
rotated a very small amount it will not drive the pump until engaged
again. You should have been able to tell that when you tried to bolt
the transmission to the engine block. Sadly that is sometimes over
looked as oft times we are on our backs talking in an unkind manner to
the SOB. Also the bell housing bolts are strong enought to crush fit
the tangs to a non working configuration. BTDT, $^&&*&*%!!