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Old June 4th 06, 06:38 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
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Default Spark plug change - 99 T & C

That's what I did when the O2 sensor (before the converter) needed
replacement. I could hardly touch the connector, let alone actually do
anything to the sensor itself. I paid something like $150 for a guy to do
it. That was money well spent!

Ken

"Frank Boettcher" > wrote in message
...
> On Sat, 3 Jun 2006 22:47:46 -0700, "KWS" > wrote:
>
> >Some say that the best way to get to the rear plugs is from the bottom. I
> >suspect that may work if the car is on a lift (at the correct height). I
> >don't think you can lay on your back under the car and get to the plugs,
> >unless you are an orangutan.
> >
> >I did my '96 T&C from the front by removing the alternator, the plastic
> >cover over the injectors and, if I recall correctly, there were a few

odds
> >and ends that I loosened to get a little more wiggle room. Having a good
> >selection of angled tools, extensions, etc. is a help.
> >
> >I won't lie to you Frank: it was a bear. Perhaps someone else has a

better
> >way. I got it done, but it took a while.
> >
> >Ken
> >

> Thanks Ken.
>
> I went on a couple of forums and found a few things, but no one had an
> easy way. Most talked about removing the plenum (the plastic cover
> you mentioned?). This model does'nt have one, just a cast intake
> manifold that has a header on the back side that covers the plugs. I
> certainly don't want to take the whole intake manifold off.
>
> May take it to a mechanic with a lift, although last time I had them
> changed at 75K miles, they charged me a just over $100 to do it,
> including the plugs. Was looking for a way to save a buck. But might
> be worth it in this case.
>
> Frank
>
> >
> >"Frank Boettcher" > wrote in message
> .. .
> >>
> >>
> >> Anyone know the procedure (what has to be removed) to get to the back
> >> plugs on a "99 T & C, 3.8L V6?
> >>
> >> Frank

> >

>



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