On 7/24/2011 1:35 AM, Ringo wrote:
>
>
> "Frank Berger" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Ringo wrote:
>>> "XS11E" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>> "Ringo" > wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> but true, but now sort of a related question due
>>>>> around the same 60,000 miles. I also noted in the scheduled
>>>>> maintenance list that it says to change the timing belt at 60K,
>>>>> which I have always been aware of, having owned several Japanese 4
>>>>> bangers. BUT there is a couple of footnotes #s 2 &3 that says if
>>>>> initially sold in several states, including mine, California, to
>>>>> change it at 105,000 instead. My question, in those few states,
>>>>> did Mazda use a heavier duty type belt???
>>>>
>>>> No, California law required Mazda to make that change, it's the same
>>>> belt for all. General consensus here seems to be that 100,000 miles
>>>> is a safe figure to use.
>>>>
>>>> NOTE: The Miata is a non-interference engine so if the belt breaks
>>>> you will NOT damage the engine.
>>>>
>>>> Next note: Change belt AND idler pulleys, cam shaft seals, crank seal
>>>> and water pump since you're already in there and almost all of the
>>>> labor is already done. It costs more but the peace of mind is worth
>>>> it!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups
>>>> The Usenet Improvement Project:
>>>> http://twovoyagers.com/improve-usenet.org/
>>>
>>> Thanks for that advice. I knew about the water pump,
>>
>> Strangely enough my local Mazda dealer, upon changing the timing belt
>> at 60K, recommended just checking the water pump for leaks and not
>> just changing in prophylactically. Though this was contrary to all the
>> advice in RMCR, I listened to him and didn't change the pump because
>> it seemed OK. Two weeks later the pump went out.
>
>
>> For sure, WHENEVER I have the timing belt changed, many years from now
>> just being at 36,700, I will definitely also have the water pump
>> changed also. Was over at our local, "Oil Can Henry's, " again today,
>> where I get the oil/filter done, and had one of those complete coolant
>> flushes with the extended life stuff this last Thursday, and the guy
>> says my hoses look great, probably because I make sure it has always
>> been services, coolant always changed out on time with the GOOD STUFF,
>> etc. etc.
>
> Now I am considering NEXT July having the 97 Monte Carlo's hoses done,
> radiators, heaters, as well as this one that is about the diameter of my
> little finger, and one other short one. But I dread what that sucker
> will cost me. Shining a flashlight behind that 3.1 liter V6, there is
> hardly any space to get at those heater hoses/clamps. I have no idea how
> those guys will do that. Not to mention one of the clamps on that tiny
> hose. My good car expert guy insists that I not worry about it, even at
> 14 yrs. old, with only less than 52,000. He says his 89 Chevy PU was
> over 100,000 miles. And he only did it because the heads needed to be
> worked on. Otherwise he wouldn't have done it yet. And when he took the
> hoses off (He does ALL his own stuff), can even rebuild an automatic
> tranny etc, he said the hoses were in great shape.
>
> As far as my Miata, those seriously look near new. But I only see the
> radiator hoses and the two heater hoses that go directly from the
> firewall onto the engine block. I don't notice any other small ones.
> Will take a much better look, when the time comes.
>
> Both the 97 Monte Carlo and 2000 Miata are always garaged, rear round,
> except of course when being used :-). Now my 94 S10 PU is parked out
> front, and like I said earlier, that one had all its' hoses done with
> the head gasket job, a good reason to have it done at that time, but was
> 14 yrs. old at that time, but they all also looked great.
>
>
>
We changed the timing belt on my 99 at about 60k, since the engine is
turbo'd. The only visible wear was a slight rounding of the teeth on the
belt. The water pump and idlers were also changed. One idler's bearings
felt like it was getting time to change, the other was OK.
As to hoses - - at least change the heater hoses and upper and lower
hoses when things are apart. The hoses to the oil filter mount should
also be changed when you change the other hoses.
As to valve clearance. Usually, just measuring it will tell you that
things are OK. If not, things can get messy, since many of the dealers
don't bother to keep the shims in stock. Some have had success in
switching shims around.
Finally - - Replacing the timing belt involves the possibility of
creating a problem on some NB's. The original torque values for the
crank bolt and the procedure in the manuals was not always adequate to
prevent eventual pulley and damper wobble. You will need a new "key" and
Locktite. Mazda issued a service note about the problem some time ago.
I'd likely wait and change the belt at about 80k instead of 60k(miles).