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Old October 13th 07, 02:06 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled
Macsoft
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Posts: 36
Default Dies at idle...do I need I new carburator?

I've got a 1300 DP with a 34 pic3 (well changed it allready for a
bocar 30/31). That could probably be it, cause the 30/31 comes with an
adaptor to work on the 1300 DP manifold. In the store they told me, if
I has a 1600 all I need was to unbolt the adaptor. Never told me about
the idle jet. What is the idle jet exactly, and where is it located,
how can I switch it? (sorry, english is notmy main language)
I could probably try to use the idle jet of the 34 pic3 on the bocar
30/31 and seeif my problem is solved.



In article > "Bill
> wrote:
> Another thing,


> Do you have a 1300 or 1600 cc engine?
> The 34-PICT or replacement carbs are jetted for a 1600cc engine.
> If your engine is a 1300 dual port fitted with a 34-pict 3 carb you
> may have to switch the idle jet of the new carb with a larger one to
> make it idle properly, because the 1300 has less manifold vacuum at
> idle than the 1600.


> Bill Spiliotopoulos,
> '67 Bug.


> "Macsoft" > wrote in message
> ...
>> In article . com>
>> > wrote:
>>> On Oct 5, 11:20 am, "Bill Spiliotopoulos" >
>>> wrote:
>>>> The idle problem doesn't connect necessarily to the pulled
>>>> thread of the carburetor stud.


>>>> Anyway, first you have to fix the stud, as this is a more
>>>> serious problem. You have to buy a helicoil insert to repair 8x1.5
>>>> mm metric thread (I'm not 100% sure if it is a 8x1.5, please
>>>> someone verify this), a special tap and a special diameter drill
>>>> to enlarge the hole. The tap, the drill and some helicoil inserts
>>>> are usually sold as a set, at a reasonable price. Don't go for a
>>>> complete set which has many different sizes, as it will be very
>>>> expensive.


>>>> You need first to remove the faulty stud from the carb. Use
>>>> two nuts locked together, to unscrew the stud from the carb body.
>>>> Then use the special drill to enlarge the hole and tap it with the
>>>> special tap. Then screw the helicoil insert with the tongue-side
>>>> in, using a small flathead screwdriver that fits by the tongue.
>>>> Use thread locking fluid on the helicoil. Then screw the stud in
>>>> the helicoil, and you are done.


>>>> About the idle problem.
>>>> Dying at idle means the idle circuit is not working.
>>>> Either the electromagnetic cut-off valve is defective or not
>>>> getting power (it must click when you toggle the ignition switch
>>>> on and off).
>>>> Or the idle jet or idle circuit passages are blocked. You
>>>> need to dismantle the carb and use compressed air to clean the idle
>>>> circuit.


>>>> The only reason to ditch a carb is if the throttle shaft
>>>> bushings are excessively worn and you can't find anybody to get it
>>>> rebushed at a reasonable price, or if it is bent / cracked /
>>>> corroded. Not idling is not a reason to replace a carb.


>>>> Bill Spiliotopoulos,
>>>> '67 Bug.


>>> I'm thinking the idle problem could be the pulled stud.
>>> If the carb doesn't bolt down good, couldn't you be sucking in
>>> some air around the gasket and/or base of the carb ? Might also
>>> warp thebottom of the carb ?


>>> Randy


>> I've grinded the bottom of the carburator to even it out, tried to
>> tighten itthe best I could with the resorces I have... Still no
>> success.
>> Went to the store and they told me they get me a new carburator
>> for 140 euros (~140 dollars), and that is one of the best problem
>> solvers I could buy for my vw. Millage, problems, etc. I'm
>> tempted... to tired of working on the car,and not enough driving it.
>> The carburator they have is one of those brasilian ones. Any
>> toughts on those? Mineis really tosted...


>> Thanks
>> MM
>> '70 1300 bug




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