In rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled, Nate Nagel wrote:

>
>
>I had a similar problem on my '84 GTI and it turned out to be the left
>side parking brake cable was stuck in the housing (had the same issue
>but on the left side.) Pull the RR drum and manually pull the e-brake
>cable full loose, then see if the problem goes away. (obviously don't
>use the e-brake until you've verified that the noise went away) You
>will probably want to repack the bearings as VW rear wheel bearings are
>marginal anyway and all that heat isn't good for the grease.

When you replace the brake cable(s), you may find that the guide
tube(s) may not be reusable. They are available reasonably priced
thru the dealer.

Here is a writeup I made when I did my cables. Note I had disks, and
the car was newer, but I suspect there are some similarities.

================================================== ==================

Replacing Parking Brake Cables

I decided to replace the parking brake cables in conjunction
with some other work on my 1995 VR6 built June 95. The car has
Lucas disk rear brakes. Since I did not find a writeup on doing
this, I thought I would make one. Did I miss one? Much of what
applies to my car would probably apply to other models.

Parking brake cable seals tend to break and admit water. This will
freeze in cold weather, holding the rear brakes engaged. There is
not AFAIK a replacement seal that can be applied later. There may
be a way to inject antifreeze. As I unhooked rear of one of my
cables, water ran out. However I then saw that the plastic
covering on that cable was torn up at one area. Not sure how that
happened. I had given up on using the parking brake in winter; I
parked in gear. If you are doing the rear brakes anyway. I would
recommend replacing the cables, and perhaps the guide tubes. Guide
tubes are about $9 each from VW. Cables are about $22 from VW, but
Adirondack is cheaper if you can wait for shipping.

In replacing these, a 10 mm socket, a 10 mm open-end, and a
long-nose plier is useful to start. Remove the two plastic disks
on the side of the console from behind the front seats. Remove the
two screws under those disks. Lift the console up and forward. I
wish I knew how to separate the boot from the parking brake lever.

Under the handle are the 10 mm nuts. Put the open wrench on the
bigger nut and turn the outer nut with the socket. Remove the
little nut. Then unscrew the big nut. Repeat for the other side.

Put the rear of the car on jack stands. Removing the back wheels
is a good idea for access and visibility. You can attempt to pull
the cable out of the guide tubes from beneath. If you live in an
area that does not salt roads, you may be able to just replace the
cables. The cables and guide tubes were inseparable in my case.
So I just pulled and twisted the tubes and cables out from below.
Order those parts if you have not already done so.


The hanger bracket that holds the cable to the chassis via a dual
tinnerman stainless steel bracket was difficult for me to remove.
I ended up doing a lot of prying. Note the position with the brake
cables to the outer side of the mount. Note the cable routing to
the brake. Remove the cable.

Detach the bracket from the brake cable for reuse. Straighten the
bending you did as you were removing the bracket.

Insert the new guide tubes. Note left and right differ. Check
from inside to see if they are inserted correctly. There is a
little flat on the forward end to position the tube on its axis.

Push/pull the new cable metal center to the rear. I lubed the
rubber boot with liquid soap, but it may not be necessary.
Carefully hook the brake cable to the brake assembly. Pull the
cable forward in the tube once the rear end is in its position. I
then used a clamp to hold the end of the cable and the little arm
in the forward position to make putting the nut on easier. Shove
the free end of the cable into the guide tube. Check that the
screw comes thru the plate that the brake handle actuates. Screw
the big screw on so that its thread are engaged, putting the
rounded end of the big nut to the rear. Do the same to the other
side.

Push the stainless steel bracket onto its two screws from beneath.

Adjust the brakes per the Bentley book.

Pull the brake handle up as far as you can. Confirm the plate that
connects the two cables with the handle is fairly square. Tighten
the jam nuts with a pair of appropriate 10 mm wrenches.

While the console is loose, its a good time to vacuum.

Put the console back, and put the wheels on. .