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Old March 9th 08, 05:43 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
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Default Honda Civic 1999, P0135, Oxygen Sensor Change, D16Y7 --- TheStory ....

I too have had excellent luck with Bosch sensors, particularly their
new "planar" type. Don't care for the old thimbles.

Stay away from the Denso junk.



On Jan 12, 9:55 am, hobbes > wrote:
> Keywords: Honda Civic LX 1999 D16Y7 Oxygen Sensor P0135 ODBII
>
> Holly smokes! Panic! The Check Engine light is on. First time that
> happened, pulled into a petrol station and put in more oil. That did
> not solve the problem and made no difference. That was about a year
> ago. Since then I have learned to control my panic and be more cool ...
> "the name's Bond, James Bond."
>
> First time round, took the car to Honda. After $US 105 light was out
> no clue what was wrong. One month later, light on again. Bought an
> Actron CP9175 analyzer and have never looked back. The fault turned
> out to be a wiring rubbing against a belt. Re-clipped the wire and the
> light went out. Two years later when that Check Engine Light came on,
> I was neither shaken nor stirred.
>
> Driving home from work and that dam idiot light come .... Arrgghhh Check
> Engine Light. Ok. Cool. Think James Bond. Get home and connect up the
> analyzer. The scan tool diagnostic connector is just above your left
> leg shin when you are sitting in the driver's seat, it is on the wall
> up against the steering wheel overhang. The code that comes up is
> P0135 (with a zero not a "O"). This means "Primary heated Oxygen
> Sensor heater circuit fault". In the car this is the Oxygen Sensor
> uppermost before the catalytic converter. When you open the bonnet (or
> hood), it is the sensor uppermost before the catalytic converter.
>
> The Oxygen Sensor is connected to the ECM / PCM with a connector that
> sits on top of the engine. To disconnect this connector you need to
> pop the plastic clip on top. Then ease out gently the ECM / PCM
> connector side out. I found using a screw driver helped to ease it
> off. The other side of the connector is connected to the oxygen sensor
> and is attached to the engine block via a clip underneath. To detach
> this you need to reach under the clip near the front and lift up the
> release catch. Then ease this off.
>
> Looking at the connector to the oxygen sensor, with the Attach to
> Engine clip on the bottom, check the resistance between the bottom two
> pins with an electrical multimeter. It should be between 10 to 40
> ohms. In my case I had an open circuit. You also need to check for a
> short between either of these pins and the body of the oxygen sensor
> i.e. ground / battery negative terminal. If you have a short, then you
> need a new oxygen sensor.
>
> OK so it looks like I need a new oxygen sensor. Recliped the connector
> and set things back. Note you can drive the car even with the Primary
> oxygen sensor disconnected. In this case the PGM / ECM computer will
> use a default internal value. Your fuel consumption will be slightly
> worse. In my case I actually could not tell the difference.
>
> The oxygen sensor I got hold of was a Bosch BS13007 which I bought
> from AutoZone for $US 90. You can get these cheaper on the net at
> about $US 75 but I wanted the assurance that if it was not the right
> one, I could return it without too much hassle. The OEM one in the
> Honda is in fact a Denso Oxygen sensor. I went with Bosch mainly
> because it was the one in stock at the AutoZone shop. It comes with a
> 1-year guarantee. The guy at AutoZone was actually pretty good. Check
> to make sure I had the right oxygen sensor and also recommended the
> right Oxygen Sensor ratchet tool.
>
> Tools you need are an Oxygen Sensor socket; this is a socket with a
> slit in it for the Oxygen Sensor wire. The one you need is the one
> with the 1/2 inch drive ratchet hole offset on the side. The ones with
> the 1/2 drive ratchet whole on top were too long to maneuver onto the
> Oxygen sensor due to the proximity of the radiator hoses. The other
> thing I bought was some PB Blaster oil penetrate to help loosen up
> bolts and a tube of high-temperature anti seize compound
>
> Back at home time to change the oxygen sensor while the engine was
> still warm-ish. There are lots of theories as to if a hot, warm or
> cold engine makes this easier. My take on it is you want the engine
> warmish, to hot and you fry yourself. And cold makes getting the
> sensor out of the exhaust manifold a bitch.
>
> I first disconnected the battery to make sure I did not short out any
> electronics and to make sure the car would not start on me. I then I
> disconnected the Oxygen sensor wire socked. Now take off the two bolts
> on the exhaust heat shield and remove that. You may need gloves to do
> this because it is sort of hot. Leather garden gloves work well. My
> bolts were sort of rusty. And the 12mm wrench socket stuck to the
> bolts a bit. A small drop of WD-40 or PB Blaster made this problem go
> away. Take off the heat shield and carefully maneuver it past the
> Oxygen sensor and the radiator hoses. It is tight but it will come
> out. Thread the Oxygen sensor wire past through the heat shield and
> place the heat shield to one side. You can now see the Oxygen Sensor.
>
> Spray some PB Blaster onto the sensor and exhaust manifold join. I
> think the PB helps loosen things up a bit, BUT also if you spray
> slighty more on the sensor, it cools the sensor more than the
> surrounding exhaust manifold and makes it contract faster and hence
> easier to get out. Place the socket wrench on the Oxygen sensor first.
> Then connect up the ratchet. The socket does not stick to the ratchet
> as with other sockets, and you will lose the socket in the depths of
> the engine .... like me the first time around if you try and balance it
> on the socket wrench. Then tug and try and loosen the sensor. Mine
> luckly came out easily. Other people I have read needed breaker bars
> and a lot more force.
>
> I then put extra anti seize onto the new sensor, taking care to keep
> it on the threads only and away from the business end of the sensor.
> The sensor did come with some anti-seize, but I added more and
> smoothed it over to ensure a nice even coating. Put the sensor in,
> making sure the tip does not touch anything oily. Re-assembly is the
> reverse of everything up to now.
>
> The bosch sensor wire did not come with the rubber grommet that helps
> secure the wire to engine clip and is longer in length. I clipped back
> the wire connector clip, and used a few cable ties to secure the wire
> away from the exhaust heat shield and radiator fan.
>
> Hooked up the battery ..... Hmmm moment of truth ..... Ignition stage II.
> Clear the codes with the Actron. Then hit the starter. Engine fires
> and the Check Engine Light remains off. Mission accomplished James.
>
> Hope this is helpful to some one ....
>
> Good luck. Best, Mike.


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